moog lower balljoints SUCK!
#1
moog lower balljoints SUCK!
Ok, I just need to vent a little bit here...
Anyone install lower balljoints from moog for out 4th get f-body's?? I did and the last two days have been a pain in my ***!
The balljoints are actually 30 thousandths bigger than the stock balljoint that I pressed out of the control arm. WTF?
Every time I tried pressing it in, it would go sideways on my and not go in straight. So damn annoying. After trying a ton of different things, I ended up having to head up the control arm and then quickly press it in. Still, it wouldn't go all the way in. I stopped after the closest I got it was about a sixteeth of an inch from seated. It is just too damn big to squeeze in that hole..
So, anyone else fight these damn things too??
/rant
Anyone install lower balljoints from moog for out 4th get f-body's?? I did and the last two days have been a pain in my ***!
The balljoints are actually 30 thousandths bigger than the stock balljoint that I pressed out of the control arm. WTF?
Every time I tried pressing it in, it would go sideways on my and not go in straight. So damn annoying. After trying a ton of different things, I ended up having to head up the control arm and then quickly press it in. Still, it wouldn't go all the way in. I stopped after the closest I got it was about a sixteeth of an inch from seated. It is just too damn big to squeeze in that hole..
So, anyone else fight these damn things too??
/rant
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
Yes, the are a pain in the ***, i know, because i have replaced them myself. On a Arbor press i had to stack all sorts of different size pieces of scrap metal to get the arm to sit level and then use different adapter cups to press the balljoints in(random sockets and pieces of pipe). Otherwise as you said they wanted to press in crooked. After trying all sorts of combinations i finally got the arm stacked right on the press and put enough wd40 on the ball joint that they pressed right in.......but after lots of trial and error.
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#9
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
I replaced both my upper and lower ball joints a few years back, and while the uppers are indeed a breeze, I don't remember the lowers being all that much trouble. I have an OTC ball joint pressing tool. It's a serious forged C-clamp, with a number of different sized sleeves.
#13
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
It's a bit late for some of you, but for those who are contemplating this job, and start having trouble getting the new parts in....stop and put the b/j in the freezer for about an hour, to "shrink" it a little, have a sandwich, then try again. And don't forget to lube the outer shell of the joint before you press it in.
.....I just thought of something. The first time I ever installed ball joints was in '70, in a '65 Corvair I had back then. Naturally, I had neither the experience nor tools that I have today, and getting the lowers in was a very big PITA.
.....I just thought of something. The first time I ever installed ball joints was in '70, in a '65 Corvair I had back then. Naturally, I had neither the experience nor tools that I have today, and getting the lowers in was a very big PITA.
#15
Moog install
#1 Use common sense! lol
#2 Put the lower control arm in a rod oven at 200F
#3 Put the Moog ball joint in the freezer
#4 Leave both to sit over night
#5 Put on gloves, remove both from oven/ freezer
#5 Lubricate both mating surfaces
#6 Place control arm on hydraulic press upside down, place 2" schedule 40 pipe on ball joint.
#7 Apply approx. 200 Kg/Cm2 (2800psi) force with press to slide the ball joint right in.
#8 Place rubber boot on stud side, place a piece of 2" pipe nipple on boot and hit nipple with a rubber mallet.
#9 Thread in the Zerk grease fitting, and lubricate with #2 marine grade grease
Woola!!!
#2 Put the lower control arm in a rod oven at 200F
#3 Put the Moog ball joint in the freezer
#4 Leave both to sit over night
#5 Put on gloves, remove both from oven/ freezer
#5 Lubricate both mating surfaces
#6 Place control arm on hydraulic press upside down, place 2" schedule 40 pipe on ball joint.
#7 Apply approx. 200 Kg/Cm2 (2800psi) force with press to slide the ball joint right in.
#8 Place rubber boot on stud side, place a piece of 2" pipe nipple on boot and hit nipple with a rubber mallet.
#9 Thread in the Zerk grease fitting, and lubricate with #2 marine grade grease
Woola!!!
#16
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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#1 Use common sense! lol
#2 Put the lower control arm in a rod oven at 200F
#3 Put the Moog ball joint in the freezer
#4 Leave both to sit over night
#5 Put on gloves, remove both from oven/ freezer
#5 Lubricate both mating surfaces
#6 Place control arm on hydraulic press upside down, place 2" schedule 40 pipe on ball joint.
#7 Apply approx. 200 Kg/Cm2 (2800psi) force with press to slide the ball joint right in.
#8 Place rubber boot on stud side, place a piece of 2" pipe nipple on boot and hit nipple with a rubber mallet.
#9 Thread in the Zerk grease fitting, and lubricate with #2 marine grade grease
Woola!!!
#2 Put the lower control arm in a rod oven at 200F
#3 Put the Moog ball joint in the freezer
#4 Leave both to sit over night
#5 Put on gloves, remove both from oven/ freezer
#5 Lubricate both mating surfaces
#6 Place control arm on hydraulic press upside down, place 2" schedule 40 pipe on ball joint.
#7 Apply approx. 200 Kg/Cm2 (2800psi) force with press to slide the ball joint right in.
#8 Place rubber boot on stud side, place a piece of 2" pipe nipple on boot and hit nipple with a rubber mallet.
#9 Thread in the Zerk grease fitting, and lubricate with #2 marine grade grease
Woola!!!
#17
I had trouble with mine too. I pressed them in with an autozone press. the biggest problem i have is with the rubber boot. it jus sits on top of the ball joint. theres no way to seal the boot to the ball joint to keep the grease in.