Strange Noises from the Rear Over Bumps
05-23-2011, 05:24 AM
#21
wow i'm getting the same noise over the passenger rear it seems. like a rattling. like something moving back and forth when i hit bumps. it started when i pulled out of a car wash and bottemed out the passenger rear. i tried replicating it when i had it on jackstands i couldnt. glad i'm not the only one whose had this problem. i was thinking it was the axel, or bearing. cuz i checked all the suspension had it all torqued properly and it still did it.
05-23-2011, 06:35 PM
#23
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pulling the tire in and out it is normal for a little movement seeing as the axles are held in by c clips and to remove them u pull out the pin and push them in, they will move a little idk how much movement u guys are getting, mine does it and i put in different gears and replaced all bearings still does it. no idea what it can be
05-24-2011, 05:38 AM
#24
pulling the tire in and out it is normal for a little movement seeing as the axles are held in by c clips and to remove them u pull out the pin and push them in, they will move a little idk how much movement u guys are getting, mine does it and i put in different gears and replaced all bearings still does it. no idea what it can be
05-24-2011, 11:43 PM
#26
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torsen? my 01 WS6, m6 started doing this same thing 2yrs ago after I put all boltons on and got a little worse everytime I broke a bolt off the carrier where the 4 bolts hold the torsen t2 unit, I would have 1 of the 4 bolts back out and snap off on the housing all in a 1 year time span, but I changed everything like you EXCEPT shocks, I have 140k miles on my OEM de carbons but after I put the 4.10 ring/pinion in out of a 96 s10 4cyl 5 speed I started noticing it more. I have completely new seals/bearings, and my backlash and tooth pattern is better then with the 3.42's I had OEM but the torsen started making noise b4 I had the cover back on and fluid in the rear. The noise is like marbles in a wooden box when I hit a crack or jog my rear end on railroad tracks more so than a bump in the road, there is a few threads on this site about the same, Its either in my torsen or my shocks, but im 99% its the torsen being woreout, they never get a break from being metal on metal and when you turn the axles when car is up on jack stands u can hear it locking and unlocking. If you have a auburn or Eaton then I have no clue.
05-25-2011, 07:36 AM
#27
thats how mine is, only on really rough roads or potholes and cracks and stuff, something to give small but really quick movements to my tires... i just want it to go away and wish i knew where to start
05-26-2011, 11:16 PM
#28
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c clip I also noticed after grinding my paddle down to fit the 4.10's in the torsen unit the play seems to be worse when I push/pull on my passenger side wheel, the c-clip setup sucks IMO, I have no clue how them c-clips hold up to 13 second passes or 12's for damn sure! I wonder if c-clip eliminators would firm up the in/out play that our axles have? I really want my noise to go away also, it dont usually do it when I hit a big pothole, but it always does it on railroad tracks,small continuous high and low spots on the roads that make the suspension compress and unload rapidly, and other random things like rolling to a stop and going over a couple small shitty potholes and it sometimes feels like the rear end moves completely out of line, or like my lug nuts came loose and the wheels are wobbling, its annoying.
05-27-2011, 03:29 AM
#29
13's and 12's? mine are holding with my 11 sec passes and almost 10 sec passes haha but its only a matter of time i am sure..........BOOM....lol
Last edited by Joinedthedarkside; 05-27-2011 at 03:35 AM.
05-27-2011, 07:58 AM
#30
ok well i put her up on the stand again this morning and i have a new update, one more thing it could be that i got sound from. when i took my rear wheels off i also removed my calipers and rotors and if i tap the emergengy brake on either side of both wheels i get a nasty horrible slapping/rattling sound that just might be the culprit. i am gonna talk to a few people about it and see what they think, anyone in here please feel free to comment on this. my shoes for the e-brake look to be in fairly good condition but i dont think it would affect it anyhow because the noise is when the side of the metal part that the shoes are attached to slap against what appears to be a dust shield/guard. its a nasty sound and fairly loud just by the tap of my finger so i would assume its also pretty loud when its jolted by rough roads and such
05-28-2011, 07:07 AM
#31
I have similar issue it rattles a bit too but makes more of a squeeky noise as well whie driving.
But about 2 months ago I took out the spring rubber isolators and sleeved them with garden hose(mod).
Also installed 32 mm front sway with poly end links.
Then i rounded up all the end links both front and rear....and took all the best white biscuits and re-dressed the rear sway bar end links using those as I did not have another set of poly end links.
I want to say its because isolaters are missing and also the white biscuits are so worn out toasty and unflexible causing squeeling and the rattling is because the isolator is missing and causing a gap between body and springs at times....bringing about the rattling noises described.
I am going to douse all these component with PB silicon spray and see if it gets better.
I also suspect the shock top posts that reside inside thee car. behind rear seats.....those might be too tight or loose...or simply need lubricant so I may PB those as well.
But about 2 months ago I took out the spring rubber isolators and sleeved them with garden hose(mod).
Also installed 32 mm front sway with poly end links.
Then i rounded up all the end links both front and rear....and took all the best white biscuits and re-dressed the rear sway bar end links using those as I did not have another set of poly end links.
I want to say its because isolaters are missing and also the white biscuits are so worn out toasty and unflexible causing squeeling and the rattling is because the isolator is missing and causing a gap between body and springs at times....bringing about the rattling noises described.
I am going to douse all these component with PB silicon spray and see if it gets better.
I also suspect the shock top posts that reside inside thee car. behind rear seats.....those might be too tight or loose...or simply need lubricant so I may PB those as well.
06-02-2011, 04:06 PM
#33
I doused everything with Liquid Wrench Silicon type. This helped A LOT...but after a few days the squeeky ness is back. (possibly dried out)
I have not had a chance to put the isolaters back in. But I strongly suspect them.
I have heard it said and have repeated it too.....GM fugggin knows why they do things.
I dont know why i sometimes subscribe to theez mods...but I cant put them back in right now becuz im doing a timing belt for a Honda right now....and its hogging up the whole bay.
I have not had a chance to put the isolaters back in. But I strongly suspect them.
I have heard it said and have repeated it too.....GM fugggin knows why they do things.
I dont know why i sometimes subscribe to theez mods...but I cant put them back in right now becuz im doing a timing belt for a Honda right now....and its hogging up the whole bay.
06-02-2011, 05:50 PM
#34
TECH Apprentice
My car makes noise over bumps as well. Something nobody has mentioned is the rear hatch and all the cheap plastic in the backs of our cars. That rear hatch is HEAVY! I realize that the hatch is locked in place and that the plastic weighs next to nothing but most if not all of us has changed our suspension to something that rides stiffer. Besides that the build quality in these f-bodies leaves alot to be desired. Just something else to think about.
06-02-2011, 10:27 PM
#35
My car makes noise over bumps as well. Something nobody has mentioned is the rear hatch and all the cheap plastic in the backs of our cars. That rear hatch is HEAVY! I realize that the hatch is locked in place and that the plastic weighs next to nothing but most if not all of us has changed our suspension to something that rides stiffer. Besides that the build quality in these f-bodies leaves alot to be desired. Just something else to think about.
But i think the build quality is not too shabby. It's a simple design...with brute power....fundamental drivetrain but properly matched. A fair powered but well arranged sound system. Throw in the t-tops version and u've got very few fundamental elements missing. If it turns out the missing isolators some of us remove is the culprit...then we only have ourselves to blame...for lowering and tweaking or modding without using OEM
It is for all intents and purposes a poor mans Vette.
06-03-2011, 10:43 AM
#36
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06-03-2011, 11:23 AM
#37
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this is true. chrisRz28, i was surprised how much of the weight of the hatch is in the spoiler, at least on the t/a's. i took it off once and the shocks wanted the hatch to fly away, but made it look like a sunfire...
i also have the same 'creak' in the passenger rear, could the pinch welds loosen up around/behind the wheel well? or some wires hanging down around the antenna banging? im thinking it could be the rear as well, but not %100...
i also have the same 'creak' in the passenger rear, could the pinch welds loosen up around/behind the wheel well? or some wires hanging down around the antenna banging? im thinking it could be the rear as well, but not %100...
06-03-2011, 11:43 AM
#38
TECH Apprentice
this is true. chrisRz28, i was surprised how much of the weight of the hatch is in the spoiler, at least on the t/a's. i took it off once and the shocks wanted the hatch to fly away, but made it look like a sunfire...
i also have the same 'creak' in the passenger rear, could the pinch welds loosen up around/behind the wheel well? or some wires hanging down around the antenna banging? im thinking it could be the rear as well, but not %100...
i also have the same 'creak' in the passenger rear, could the pinch welds loosen up around/behind the wheel well? or some wires hanging down around the antenna banging? im thinking it could be the rear as well, but not %100...
06-04-2011, 10:32 AM
#39
We all should definitely chip in and try to update this thread if it such a widespread problem...I will likely be pulling in the Z into my bay in about 2 weeks(doing Tbelt,AC, oil pan gasket+misc. on a Honda).
It's possible as well that the top of the rear springs(where the bolt in inside the cabin) could create squeek if those bushings dry out. And those are inside right behind the rear seats...elevated enough to deliver an earshot of squeek if they do.
I didnt spray those with silicon but maybe someone else with the squeeks can?
I have a different idea concerning the rattles.
I think its possible that the space between the rear spring perches and the bottom inside of the car body....(that is occupied by the spring and the isolator) is pre-set. Maybe by the panhard rod or something. The body won't just sink to the ground or floor into the rear end if the springs were gone.
Has anyone confirmed that?
So if we were to remove the isolaters.....we are creating an open space....as the body will not just simply or easily settle lower under all angles. IF in fact it does NOT we'd get rattling here and there from the open space of 1 inch or 2inches as the springs would shake.... maybe not all the time but some of the time.
Another way to see if this rings true is for all of us guilty of removing the isolator to raise their hands of having done so AND experiencing rattling.
Its also possible that if aftermarket springs are shorter in design than stock...the same effect would take place.
Im guessing a Watts type link would cure this dillema.
Either that or put back in the rubber isolater. (lucky I found mine baking in the sun uncovered...threw them back in the shed recently).
It's possible as well that the top of the rear springs(where the bolt in inside the cabin) could create squeek if those bushings dry out. And those are inside right behind the rear seats...elevated enough to deliver an earshot of squeek if they do.
I didnt spray those with silicon but maybe someone else with the squeeks can?
I have a different idea concerning the rattles.
I think its possible that the space between the rear spring perches and the bottom inside of the car body....(that is occupied by the spring and the isolator) is pre-set. Maybe by the panhard rod or something. The body won't just sink to the ground or floor into the rear end if the springs were gone.
Has anyone confirmed that?
So if we were to remove the isolaters.....we are creating an open space....as the body will not just simply or easily settle lower under all angles. IF in fact it does NOT we'd get rattling here and there from the open space of 1 inch or 2inches as the springs would shake.... maybe not all the time but some of the time.
Another way to see if this rings true is for all of us guilty of removing the isolator to raise their hands of having done so AND experiencing rattling.
Its also possible that if aftermarket springs are shorter in design than stock...the same effect would take place.
Im guessing a Watts type link would cure this dillema.
Either that or put back in the rubber isolater. (lucky I found mine baking in the sun uncovered...threw them back in the shed recently).
06-04-2011, 11:33 AM
#40
TECH Apprentice
We all should definitely chip in and try to update this thread if it such a widespread problem...I will likely be pulling in the Z into my bay in about 2 weeks(doing Tbelt,AC, oil pan gasket+misc. on a Honda).
It's possible as well that the top of the rear springs(where the bolt in inside the cabin) could create squeek if those bushings dry out. And those are inside right behind the rear seats...elevated enough to deliver an earshot of squeek if they do.
I didnt spray those with silicon but maybe someone else with the squeeks can?
I have a different idea concerning the rattles.
I think its possible that the space between the rear spring perches and the bottom inside of the car body....(that is occupied by the spring and the isolator) is pre-set. Maybe by the panhard rod or something. The body won't just sink to the ground or floor into the rear end if the springs were gone.
Has anyone confirmed that?
So if we were to remove the isolaters.....we are creating an open space....as the body will not just simply or easily settle lower under all angles. IF in fact it does NOT we'd get rattling here and there from the open space of 1 inch or 2inches as the springs would shake.... maybe not all the time but some of the time.
Another way to see if this rings true is for all of us guilty of removing the isolator to raise their hands of having done so AND experiencing rattling.
Its also possible that if aftermarket springs are shorter in design than stock...the same effect would take place.
Im guessing a Watts type link would cure this dillema.
Either that or put back in the rubber isolater. (lucky I found mine baking in the sun uncovered...threw them back in the shed recently).
It's possible as well that the top of the rear springs(where the bolt in inside the cabin) could create squeek if those bushings dry out. And those are inside right behind the rear seats...elevated enough to deliver an earshot of squeek if they do.
I didnt spray those with silicon but maybe someone else with the squeeks can?
I have a different idea concerning the rattles.
I think its possible that the space between the rear spring perches and the bottom inside of the car body....(that is occupied by the spring and the isolator) is pre-set. Maybe by the panhard rod or something. The body won't just sink to the ground or floor into the rear end if the springs were gone.
Has anyone confirmed that?
So if we were to remove the isolaters.....we are creating an open space....as the body will not just simply or easily settle lower under all angles. IF in fact it does NOT we'd get rattling here and there from the open space of 1 inch or 2inches as the springs would shake.... maybe not all the time but some of the time.
Another way to see if this rings true is for all of us guilty of removing the isolator to raise their hands of having done so AND experiencing rattling.
Its also possible that if aftermarket springs are shorter in design than stock...the same effect would take place.
Im guessing a Watts type link would cure this dillema.
Either that or put back in the rubber isolater. (lucky I found mine baking in the sun uncovered...threw them back in the shed recently).