EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

i have adjustable upper A arms. the only way to adjust them (for more camber) is to completely disassemble the suspension. spindle off, shock out, A arm and its mount out. then take the A arm out of the mount, adjust the bolts, and reassemble everything.

do i need to do an alignment after this, or should it be good to go. i know i wont know exactly how much neg. camber i gained without at least a reading, but more is what im after. the toe shouldnt change, in theory, as im not touching the tie rods. any thoughts.

SVThuh

iTrader: (2)

Its easy enough and cheap enough to get the tools to measure your alignment after any adjustments..

http://www.shallowsky.com/alignment.html

Or you can buy the camber/castor checking tools and such..
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=129&catid=5

or digital..
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...d=1219&catid=5

I personally dont see a problem with doing it yourself.. Hell, if your confident enough in your abilities to turn a wrench and you are **** enough to make sure you do it right, I would say go ahead and just align the car yourself and keep on doing it.. That camber/castor gauge alone is the cost of 1 or 2 good alignments.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

sure wish I had saw your post a week ago as I paid 149.00 for JUST the caster level vile for my old snap on caster/camber guage ( which I play with at home on my 2 sons track cars as I retired 4 years ago after aliging autos for over 30 years )which looks like
" http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=129&catid=5"
sure the OP can get the alignment close enough to get by close with the rite equment, but never as close as a good tech with the
HUNTER HAWKEYE equ. ( 24k ) and a good drive on rack ( 25k)
at the shop where I retired 4 years ago they charge 79.95 for a compleate front and rear ( check and use rear thrust line to complete alignment. rear if adjustable- if not ,still check and use refence angles)
the OP is going to have his work cut out for him to get the align close
doing it at home
Johnny

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Good idea, but you realize, of course, the two gauges you referred to are used in racing applications, where there is access to the car's "steel" hub, so the magnetic base has something to grip......



Most cars these days, have aluminum wheels that obscure the center hub, so unless you buy the adapter that hooks around the beads of the wheel, those Longacre gauges won't work. Secondly, in order to adjust toe, or even read the caster, you need to be able to turn the wheels almost lock to lock. You'll need a pair of turn plates to do that. So far, you're now up to around $8-900.

As much as I like to work on my car myself, there are just some jobs that are better farmed out.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

What kind of a-arms, the ones with rod ends? If so, why so much dis-assembly?? Jack and support the car, remove the front wheels, remove the bolts that pass through the rod ends (I think there should be just enough room to do this), pivot the a-arms around (you don't have to remove them from the spindle), and adjust the rod ends as necessary, and re-install.

Mighty Whitey

^this

I'll do anything and everything I can on my own. but.... turning rotors, wheel alignments and custom exhaust work are things that are better left to the pro's if you're trying to save a dollar.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

not enough room, i tried

99SSJarhead

iTrader: (2)

Find out what a shop would charge just to print your current alignment specs, then talk to whoever made your a-arms to see if they can tell you how many half turns you would need.