Lower A-Arm removal??????? Help
For the front bolts you need to turn the steering wheel all the way to the passenger side to get the drivers bolt and all the way to the drivers side to get the passenger side out. Even then it may want to rub the steering rack rubber.
The rears should just need to be unbolted and pushed up.
The rears should just need to be unbolted and pushed up.
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The bolt end has a keeper that has its own little alignment hole in the k-member.. Trying to turn it with the nut off will only screw everything up.
Once the nut it out, you should be able to slide, not spin the bolt back out. Rap it on the nut side with a hammer to try to free it up. Maybe use some heat if necessary too.
Once the nut it out, you should be able to slide, not spin the bolt back out. Rap it on the nut side with a hammer to try to free it up. Maybe use some heat if necessary too.
On an old thirdgen I've had to get the torch out and cut them when the bolt siezed onto the bushing. Fourth gens are starting to get some age and could be experiencing the same problem.
Don't bother with a sawzall, I tried that first and the bushings are hardened.
Don't bother with a sawzall, I tried that first and the bushings are hardened.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 3
From: Bloomington, illinois
Lol, im not that stupid. The original plan was to put the stock aarms on our tubular kmemeber but just ended up getting tubular aarms
