Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

dont know jack about brakes. need rotor, pads.. what else?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-02-2004, 12:10 AM
  #1  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
 
Stone0fFire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default dont know jack about brakes. need rotor, pads.. what else?

i heard the autozone specials are nice for rotors
and i heard bendix or gm or ac delco are a nice compromise for pads

how do i improve the feel of the brakes?
i drive my wifes moms accord and i barely touch it and it stops.
i have to plant my boot to the floor with mine to get it to slow down.
what else do i need?
what about fluid?
what are stainless steel lines for?
should i get different calipers?

id like to be able to use street skinnies in the future, too.
thanks guys
Old 03-02-2004, 12:33 AM
  #2  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (60)
 
Ferocity02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,397
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Definitly check your brake fluid. Since your car is a 98, and depending on the mileage, it may be time for a caliper rebuild. Then you can bleed the brakes and make sure all the air is out of the system. Autozone rotors are great to replace stock, but if you want better stopping I'd suggest slotted rotors, like ones from iRotors. Stainless steel lines prevent the expanding of the brake lines to give a firmer pedal, something you should look into. No need to replace the calipers, you brakes just need a little work. As for the pads, you need some new ones also. I don't know much but I think ceramic is the way to go.
Old 03-02-2004, 06:15 AM
  #3  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
 
mitchntx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 6,480
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

A Honda weighs how much? Your F-Body weighs how much?

You cannot compare apples to oranges
Old 03-02-2004, 06:39 AM
  #4  
TECH Apprentice
 
BigDaddyZ28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I would definitely swap that fluid out with some fresh stuff. It is really easy to do, and will most likely improve the feel of your brakes. (Brake fluid DOES become contaminated over time)

Autozone Rotors might be a good thing if you 'dog' your brakes real hard. They have a warranty and will replace them if you warp your rotors...

Good Luck...
Old 03-02-2004, 07:38 PM
  #5  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
 
Stone0fFire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by mitchntx
A Honda weighs how much? Your F-Body weighs how much?

You cannot compare apples to oranges
compare= to examine the character or qualities of especially in order to discover similarities or differences

either two things are similar, or different (or both).
if they are similar, we can compare
if they are different, we can compare.

you said we cannot compare apples to oranges.
so are you saying apples and oranges are neither similar or different?

the accord and fbody are similar because they are both cars with braking systems.
the accord and fbody are different in pedal feel.
i want the pedal feel to be similar.
i realize you will need different braking systems to achieve similar feel,
due to the difference of cars.

now that i have written out what i want "crayon style" just for you,
can you be of any help or will you just remark with popular but untrue maxims? show me you are worth more than your worthless adage.




for the other couple replies,
thanks for your support,
i will check out iRotors as a sub for autozone =)
anyone know where is the spot to get ss lines?
and name brands for pads? location? ceramics you say?

Last edited by Stone0fFire; 03-02-2004 at 08:02 PM.
Old 03-02-2004, 08:26 PM
  #6  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
 
absolut_speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Illinois
Posts: 865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Mitch knows his stuff. Before you start downtalking him, consider you asked how to improve your brake feel in comparison with an Accord that weighs less and has less rotating mass. You started off talking about OEM equivalent replacements, not major upgrades. Lay out what you're willing to spend, and what you're willing to put up with (noise, replacement frequency, dusting) and I'm sure Mitch and others would be better able to help.

You asked a vague question, perhaps unknowingly, and you got a vague response.
Old 03-02-2004, 11:01 PM
  #7  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
 
mitchntx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 6,480
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Stone0fFire
compare= to examine the character or qualities of especially in order to discover similarities or differences
No worries ...

Look up "physics" in that same dictionary

See "dissipate" and "energy" as well
Old 03-03-2004, 07:49 AM
  #8  
roy
TECH Resident
 
roy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Mehlingen, Germany
Posts: 937
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Scared me with that post Stone .
Do you possess the skills to attempt such a project? Might be be better if you let a shop do it for you .
Old 03-04-2004, 11:03 PM
  #9  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
 
Stone0fFire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

look, i didnt know i was "backtalking" to one of our "sacred elders".
i dont think my point was too vague,
if anyone has driven an accord,
they know the brakes are more responsive compared to an fbody,
and all i meant was i want the sys to be more responsive!

now take into consideration all the physics you need to
just to come up with a good compromise.
must i really take up intro physics or higher just to get some decent brakes for an fbody? this fruit analogy is of no use to me, and only serves as a consolation. instead, why not tell me about certain parts of the sys, and what they do? why cant i get more replies like the one from ferocity02? now i know autozones are alright, slotted is better, check fluid once in a while, ss lines improve response.. is that all? why cant someone tell me about pads instead of just discouraging me because i got this heavy POS instead of an accord?

and sorry if i was too vague..
i didnt realize it
let me add that it is our only car,
our only daily driver.
our "weekend warrior" street car
and our beater the same.
its not a roadrace or autocross car,
although it may suffer a 1/4 strip once or twice in its life.
i hope that helps generate suggestions.
thanks.
Old 03-04-2004, 11:33 PM
  #10  
On The Tree
 
Tom L. Busby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Corpus Christi Texas
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yeah. GM pads don't dust up and are fine for street use. Anybody's rotors are fine. Get some hi-temp caliper lube and lube up the bolts that the caliper slides on. Get some anti-squeak fluid and put it on the backs of the pads, AND put it on the little stainless rattle-clips so they bed into the brackets so they don't vibrate/squeak. Use a big vise-grip (like an old lady would use to open mayonaise jars) to compress the pads. Then the calipers kind of roll up and the pads drop off. Bleed the brake lines by gravity with the bleeders open to a slow 1 drip per second into a jar. Buy a quart of synthetic Valvoline DOT-4 fluid and don't let the master run dry when bleeding, and first of all, vacuum out most of the dirty fluid with a turkey baster to speed up letting the black fluid run out. Bleed the system at least once a year until it runs clear. Really, brake fluid is not black. If you have an air bubble in the system you need a pal to push the brake pedal down and the run around closing the bleeders before he lets the pedal up. When bleeding by any method tap the calipers with a wrench to vibrate out any stray air bubbles. That is about it. You can do this, easily, in about 4 hours for all 4. Get a can of brake cleaner to clean the calipers up and so forth.
Old 03-05-2004, 09:01 AM
  #11  
Teching In
 
muggzi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Edited: please contact me at ynot_dv8@hotmail.com if you would like sponsorship information. It is against our site policy for non-sponsors to solicit business on this site.

Thanks,
Tony
Old 03-08-2004, 05:26 PM
  #12  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
 
Stone0fFire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Tom L. Busby
Yeah. GM pads don't dust up and are fine for street use. Anybody's rotors are fine. Get some hi-temp caliper lube and lube up the bolts that the caliper slides on. Get some anti-squeak fluid and put it on the backs of the pads, AND put it on the little stainless rattle-clips so they bed into the brackets so they don't vibrate/squeak. Use a big vise-grip (like an old lady would use to open mayonaise jars) to compress the pads. Then the calipers kind of roll up and the pads drop off. Bleed the brake lines by gravity with the bleeders open to a slow 1 drip per second into a jar. Buy a quart of synthetic Valvoline DOT-4 fluid and don't let the master run dry when bleeding, and first of all, vacuum out most of the dirty fluid with a turkey baster to speed up letting the black fluid run out. Bleed the system at least once a year until it runs clear. Really, brake fluid is not black. If you have an air bubble in the system you need a pal to push the brake pedal down and the run around closing the bleeders before he lets the pedal up. When bleeding by any method tap the calipers with a wrench to vibrate out any stray air bubbles. That is about it. You can do this, easily, in about 4 hours for all 4. Get a can of brake cleaner to clean the calipers up and so forth.
wow, thats alot of info..
thanks alot!
now i dont have to take it to a shop
and watch how they do it from across the street w/ binoculars

i didnt know brake fluid was not supposed to be black
i thought all oil was black except for the red trans fluid

btw, anyone know where to get some stainless lines for this thing?
i dont want to get the jegs do it yourself kit if i dont have to..
Old 03-08-2004, 05:35 PM
  #13  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
 
mitchntx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 6,480
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

www.installuniversity.com
Old 03-09-2004, 03:23 AM
  #14  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
 
Stone0fFire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by mitchntx
hey, those are some cool writeups, thanks alot!
but.. should i do the brake caliper rebuild?
ive got 110k miles on this thing with less than a handful of panic stomps on the pedal.
should i just do the pads and rotor thing and then do what tom said about the fluid?

if you think i should do the caliper rebuild,
how much will that cost?

and about stainless lines,
im thinking of getting earls from speedinc
man they got good prices, good products and they ship really fast.
i should get line lock while im at it.

thanks for putting up with my q's and basically me, guys
you've all been a tremendous help.
and thanks mitch, for directing me even after i act like a jerk.
Old 03-09-2004, 06:24 AM
  #15  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
 
mitchntx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 6,480
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

We got off on the wrong keyboard.
It's all good ...

For a street car, SS brake lines are no help.
You just won't generate enough heat to cause the stock lines to "balloon".
If you do, then the stock brake fluid will boil.

If the dust boots are torn, then consider a rebuild.
The kits are only $8 or so and you will need 4 of them
Old 03-09-2004, 09:35 PM
  #16  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
 
Stone0fFire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by mitchntx
We got off on the wrong keyboard.
It's all good ...

For a street car, SS brake lines are no help.
You just won't generate enough heat to cause the stock lines to "balloon".
If you do, then the stock brake fluid will boil.

If the dust boots are torn, then consider a rebuild.
The kits are only $8 or so and you will need 4 of them
oh my god, you just saved me $120!!!
thanks!!!!!
so umm..
im almost afraid to bring this up again but..
what can i do to improve the responsiveness?

should i just get autozone crap rotors and
gm pads or hawk hps pads?
i thought i made up my mind but someone said hawk hps are similar $ but much better performance.
Old 03-10-2004, 07:45 AM
  #17  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
 
mitchntx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 6,480
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

AZ rotors and HP, HP+ or Carbotech Panther pads will give you very good initial bite.

But, that improved performance comes at a price.
The pads dust a lot more, wear faster and are harder on rotors.

If you find you need a higher temp brake fluid, then consider the SS brake lines.



Quick Reply: dont know jack about brakes. need rotor, pads.. what else?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:38 PM.