Subframe connecters
Boxed and tubular are going to work very similar. Weld in is always better but not everyone can weld so bolt in is an option. If you can weld or have easy access I recommend welding but we have had good luck with bolt in set ups.
What do you use this vehicle for?
What do you use this vehicle for?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 343
Likes: 1
From: Petaluma, Ca
I've got UMI weld-on boxed 2 points. They're kinda heavy. Can't compare them to any other style because these were my first and only set. I've had them on for a number of years now and don't remember if they 'fixed' any shaking or noise in the car. But, back when I didn't have them, when I would set the front of the car on jackstands (stands under frame, below firewall) you could see the front of the car sag from the doors forward. Now, being that the front and back are now connected together, the back of the car lifts up a few inches (instead of the front sagging) when the front is set down on the stands. They do something!
I am eventually going to be drag racing the car... Eventually looking for around 750+ hp after a number of years of course but at some point it will be strictly a toy... I know I need them and may possibly have access to a welder but not currently. I just got the car a few months back and slowing buying things like LT plugs and wires... At what point in hp should you get SFC before I compromise anything? I don't do a whole lot of racing now because there's no track
Its hard to say when you actually need them. They are a chassis support designed to prevent any chassis issues and twisting. At 750 HP and track time I would highly recommend a weld on set.
A lot of customers purchase the bolt on set and have them welded later on down the road... this is an option as well. I feel regardless of when you need them they are always good insurance to have and don't add any cons to the vehicle other than the little extra weight.
I hope this helps a little,
Ryan
A lot of customers purchase the bolt on set and have them welded later on down the road... this is an option as well. I feel regardless of when you need them they are always good insurance to have and don't add any cons to the vehicle other than the little extra weight.
I hope this helps a little,
Ryan
The bolt in set ups require no drilling or cutting, they are 100% bolt in.
I hope that helps!
Ryan
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For my street car, I prefer bolt in. This way I have no "modified" the frame in any way and can still go back to original if I ever want to.
Obviously the welds would be stronger than bolts, but I havent seen a single set of broken subframe connector bolts ever. Welds are stronger, but probably not neccessary for most cars IMO.
Maybe the UMI guys can shed more light on this?
Obviously the welds would be stronger than bolts, but I havent seen a single set of broken subframe connector bolts ever. Welds are stronger, but probably not neccessary for most cars IMO.
Maybe the UMI guys can shed more light on this?
We run the UMI 3-Point bolt-ins and they works great. You can really feel the difference when jumping on the highway off an exit or exiting on a curve off the highway. SFCs are definitely a MUST. 2Points usually are okay but if you're going to be pushing the power you say you are I'd do the 3-Points.
We finally also got the 3-Point Double Diamond Style SFCs back in production here!
http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...ducts_id=14462
with 2 points here.
http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...ducts_id=14461
We finally also got the 3-Point Double Diamond Style SFCs back in production here!
http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...ducts_id=14462
with 2 points here.
http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...ducts_id=14461