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Possible solution to roto joint thud.

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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 09:49 AM
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Smile Possible solution to roto joint thud.

After reading through thread after thread about thuds after roto joint installs, myself included, I may have found a solution. My car has had a nasty thud/rattle ever since I put on my UMI LCA's and panhard bar. Both pieces are equipped with roto joints. After spending months searching everything and not finding anything that could be causing the thud I finally inspected the joints themselves. I noticed that my passenger side control arm had frozen joints. The roto joints were stuck to one side and would not budge. The drivers side I could move with my hand with some force. All my noise was coming from the passenger side so I popped the arm off to take a look. I took apart the joint and both ends were completely dry of grease. I know UMI says they are pre greased from the factory, but I guess mine have been on long enough the grease is gone. Anyway, I hand packed the joint with grease instead of using the nipple and put everything back together. Lo and behold my car is quieter than my buddy's stock ws6 suspension wise. I could not believe it. Bumps that used to upset the whole car don't even phase it anymore. I also installed jeep bumpstops last night so that may have helped a little. None the less, this could be a solution to the endless thud and clank threads after roto joint install. Just wanted to share my experience with everyone.
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 10:29 AM
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yup, people don't realize what maintenance always means on a modded car
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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Yeah, I know what you mean. My thud was so severe and shook the whole car I had no idea it was just grease. It seemed to simple of a fix considering how bad the sound was.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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We did edit our instructions for Roto-Joint items to this now:

All Roto-Joint items are shipped fully assembled and ready to be installed. The Roto-Joints arrive with a very light film of grease, although it is not enough to maintain the integrity of the Roto-Joint during use. The end user MUST grease the Roto-Joint with 1-2 pumps only of marine type grease before use. Marine type grease is recommended due to it high resistance to water washout, keeping the Roto-Joints functioning like new over a longer period of time.

We pre-grease them for assemble purposes only. They will need greased with a grease gun once installed.

I hope that helps,
Ryan
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
We did edit our instructions for Roto-Joint items to this now:

All Roto-Joint items are shipped fully assembled and ready to be installed. The Roto-Joints arrive with a very light film of grease, although it is not enough to maintain the integrity of the Roto-Joint during use. The end user MUST grease the Roto-Joint with 1-2 pumps only of marine type grease before use. Marine type grease is recommended due to it high resistance to water washout, keeping the Roto-Joints functioning like new over a longer period of time.

We pre-grease them for assemble purposes only. They will need greased with a grease gun once installed.

I hope that helps,
Ryan
Yep that is what I did. I still had the old instructions that just said they were pre-greased. I used plain white lithium grease though. Next time I do it I'll buy some marine grease. It makes more sense to use marine grease now that you said something. I do have a question for you. Are the nipples on your products standard size? I have used two different guns to try and grease them and neither one would fit on the nipple. That's why I just popped the covers off and hand packed them. It's not a big deal, but I was just curious why my guns wouldn't work.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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Are these the older design without the lock screw or the newer ones with the lock screw?

They probably loosened up and needed to be tightened. When you disassembled/repacked/re-assembled you essentially tightened them up.

I used to have the previous design without the lock screw. The side plate would eventually unscrew and the joint would clunk and eventually the side plate would unscrew off and I'd have a really bad clunk from a joint that disassembled itself. All the parts were there and I was able to reassemble it with new grease.

I now have the new design with the lock screw. The side plate now doesn't move and the joint stays tight. Its a needed improvement.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 07:21 AM
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The grease fittings are a standard size and any gun should fit them. Most grease guns are adjustable to how tight they fit on the grease fitting, you may just need to loosen the end to make it fit.

I hope that helps,
Thank you,
Ryan
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
The grease fittings are a standard size and any gun should fit them. Most grease guns are adjustable to how tight they fit on the grease fitting, you may just need to loosen the end to make it fit.

I hope that helps,
Thank you,
Ryan
+1, my grease gun does take some force to get it to go on, but it does fit just fine
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 10:13 PM
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just bought some umi poly roto lca on car adjustable. Umi why your here what torque arm works for kooks longtubes and kooks true duals? thanks
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 02ws.sik
just bought some umi poly roto lca on car adjustable. Umi why your here what torque arm works for kooks longtubes and kooks true duals? thanks
Hey Justin,

I replied to your PM last week with a few options, did you receive it?

Thanks!
Ryan
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 05:23 PM
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No i didnt can you pm again sorrythanks
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 02ws.sik
No i didnt can you pm again sorrythanks
I checked and it was sent to I resent it. Let me know if you got it. Thanks
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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i got it thanks just got my poly roto lca that are adjustable in cm they look great and got your panhard bar relocation kit with the bar. im going to install it on a car lift on saterday.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 02ws.sik
i got it thanks just got my poly roto lca that are adjustable in cm they look great and got your panhard bar relocation kit with the bar. im going to install it on a car lift on saterday.
Great to hear! If you have any pictured of our relocation kit with the Kook's duals please send them over, I would like to see.

Thanks again!
Ryan
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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once they are installed i will pm you some might not be till jan.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by VIP1
Are these the older design without the lock screw or the newer ones with the lock screw?

They probably loosened up and needed to be tightened. When you disassembled/repacked/re-assembled you essentially tightened them up.

I used to have the previous design without the lock screw. The side plate would eventually unscrew and the joint would clunk and eventually the side plate would unscrew off and I'd have a really bad clunk from a joint that disassembled itself. All the parts were there and I was able to reassemble it with new grease.

I now have the new design with the lock screw. The side plate now doesn't move and the joint stays tight. Its a needed improvement.
Mine are the new ones. I read about your problems you had with yours. I'm glad they changed the design.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 09:16 PM
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I got the new ones good for me.
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