big dave

I recently installed an aftermarket TA, but I can't stand the way the car rides. Combine that with the extra noises I'm hearing now because of the solid mounts, my car is no longer comfortable to drive daily.

What causes the stock one to bend? At the track, I don't dump the clutch so I don't know if that's what causes the factory ones to bend.

beanhead

iTrader: (1)

The factory units are just poorly made and flex under launch or hard acceleration but to answer your original question you can retain your factory TA but you should remove it from the transmission housing. The full length aftermarkets pretty much maintain the same ride manners and remove the flex allowing a better transfer of torque and the tunnel mounted units move your vehicle center back applying more downward force than the full length.I think you need to provide more information about your car and someone on here will be able to help you figure out what is causing your drive-ability issues. I'm by no means an expert but this is my understanding and I hope it helps

big dave

Thanks alot for the info, that was very helpful.

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

I broke 2 stock ones on the street

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

The 6 speed cars tend to shock the suspension and drivetrain quite a bit more than the automatic cars. I have seen stock 6 speed cars break and mangle factory torque arms. If the cars is modded and making more power than what it came with from the factory I would stick with the aftermarket torque arm and even consider going with a torque arm relocation crossmember to get the torque arm off the tailshaft housing.

themealonwheels

iTrader: (20)

I heard once that you can weld rebar into the stock torque arm to improve its strength. I'm not substantiating that claim, I run tubular units. But if bending is the issue, that may help?

big dave

I currently have a TA that mounts to the tunnel crossbrace...along with the driveshaft loop. My problem is the amount of bucking I experience when driving the car daily.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I am not sure what you mean by "bucking". There will definitely be more transfer of noise due to the torque arm mounting directly to the chassis. When exactly does the "bucking" happen and under what driving conditions?

777

iTrader: (21)

Everytime I've seen the stock torque arm break it has been at the mounting point to the rear axle. Rebar would not help that. It may increase rigidity (and add weight) but that doesn't help if you break it.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

It will also twist and become misshapen. It can be bent back into shape, but once you have done it twice...you should realize how bad the part is. haha

big dave

Well the bucking is more a product of cam surge. With the stock torque arm setup, it isn't felt because it slides. With this setup, everything is bolted solidly to the body so the surge is felt a bit more. I'm really in need of a proper tune to hopefully get rid of this issue.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I agree 100% on getting the tune checked out then you can see if you really have an issue with the suspension or not.

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

what causes it to bend? a 1.65 60' with a m6. i only had allseasons on my car and broke mine on the street, it was all mangled like terminator 2 when the cop terminator was blown apart by the shotgun.

but yeah you put solid motor mounts on a DD what did you expect?