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fishtailing excessively

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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 04:31 AM
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Default fishtailing excessively

Hey guys, I have a 2002 z28 a4 hardtop with the 3.23 axle. This is my second f body but first ls1 car. The car runs very well but seems to be quite unpredictable on launches.

It gets absolutely no traction in any part of first gear and worse yet it doesnt seem to be controlable. My first car was an IROC and it would get loose but slight adjustments would bring it right back. This car not so much the longer you stay in it the better the chances of you ending up in the ditch.

I need to replace the tires on it I know and I suspect this is most of the problem but I wanted to know if anybody had any other ideas as far as suspension issues that can cause this

I plan on upgrading the lcas some subframe connectors and a tunnel mounted torque arm once I get some new tires. Id love to hear any thoughts you might have
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 04:55 AM
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I would do the suspension mods you talked about, add a panhard also.

My old car had stock suspension and fish tailed terribly. Current car has a decent amount of suspension, spins straight as an arrow.
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 08:57 AM
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Hey there, there are a lot of variables that can make your car fishtail like that and there are a lot of parts out there that can make the car hook. Before we get into potential parts that may benefit you, what kind of tires are you running now? Are you on the factory Z28 16s, or have you installed a 17-inch wheel? Is your suspension 100% stock? How many miles are on the car and the shocks/springs?

Another important piece of information is what are your plans with the car, your goals, and what mods do you plan to do in the future?

Thanks,
Kevin
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by nomasterase
Hey guys, I have a 2002 z28 a4 hardtop with the 3.23 axle. This is my second f body but first ls1 car. The car runs very well but seems to be quite unpredictable on launches.

It gets absolutely no traction in any part of first gear and worse yet it doesnt seem to be controlable. My first car was an IROC and it would get loose but slight adjustments would bring it right back. This car not so much the longer you stay in it the better the chances of you ending up in the ditch.

I need to replace the tires on it I know and I suspect this is most of the problem but I wanted to know if anybody had any other ideas as far as suspension issues that can cause this

I plan on upgrading the lcas some subframe connectors and a tunnel mounted torque arm once I get some new tires. Id love to hear any thoughts you might have
In addition to the parts mentioned above, you can consider relocation brackets. These lower the rear of the trailing arms, even your stock ones, and help the car hook. No spin yields no fishtailing.

It is kind of fun having LS power and once you get it under control,

ramey
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 04:39 PM
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The car is currently stock save for an Slp lid and muffler delete. Just turned over 90k miles and when I said it needs tires that was a bit of an understatement as they are to the wear bars. Hopefully that will be remedied in a couple weeks. I would like to do the bolt ons for now and would be very pleased with high to mid 11s and am looking at poly roto joint lcas and panhard rod with relocation brackets and tunnel mount torque arm. Tires will most likely stay 245/50/16 for now probably Firestone wide ovals. I don't expect it to dead hook but spinning to half track is just ridiculous

The main thing that concerns me is that my IROC was capable of 1.7 60 ft times on all the stock parts with the same size and z rated street tires. My z28 will break the back tires loose at 40 mph
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by nomasterase
The main thing that concerns me is that my IROC was capable of 1.7 60 ft times on all the stock parts with the same size and z rated street tires. My z28 will break the back tires loose at 40 mph
I think the IROC with it's relatively good tire to relatively mild torque curve was actually a pretty good 60' situation. Kind of the slow-down-to-go-faster theory.

Our 2000 WS6 'vert with heads, tune, exhaust will bog at 5000 off the line due to the UMI T/A, Relo's, LCA's and Nitto's. We occasionally run our drag bar which also really helps it leave flat. We have QA1's on it with front coilovers and the rear springs are factory.

If you just do T/A, Relo's and LCA's you should be a ton better.

And of course a stickier tire will help.

ramey
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 09:07 PM
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LCA's + Nittos first.

SFC's in a CLOSE second thing to do, if not at the same time. My car spins straight since I put the SFC's in and is much more predictable and controllable. Such a great bang for the buck!

Last edited by bayer-z28; Jan 28, 2012 at 07:26 AM.
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 10:02 PM
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Thanks guys its reassuring to hear what I already had planned has worked for you now if the money to do it would just hurry up lol
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