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Old 03-14-2012 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
I won't sit here and argue with you because it will be pointless. But a lot of our products are not copies of others. We designed them, we test and we support them. We don't have a single high school kid working here. Have you looked at the going rate of a mechanical engineer lately? Not cheap.

Control arms and panhard bars are simple, tubing, bushings and weld. Front a-arms, k-members ect take more time and effort to design.
You just proved my point. But first, I never mentioned you or your company, I was speaking on production on a small scale in general specifically referring to parts of the suspension nature since that's the topic of discussion. So, I did not accuse you of copying but lets be honest here, there's only so many ways to make a LCA or relo bracket right? Which came first the chicken or the egg? Doesn't matter now, the designs for SIMPLE suspension components are already tried and true and most companies components looks remarkably similar don't you agree? You design, test and support your products? Great. I don't know off hand that Founders has cars with their name on it. Maybe they don't do those things, a way to keep overall production costs down which in-turn leads to lower consumer pricing if the company so desires. Mechanical engineers salaries....have no clue. I'm sure its not minimum wage. Maybe founders doesn't have many of those who knows. Another way to keep overhead down. Simple tubing bushings and a weld......well isn't most of their line-up more simple items? They don't even have weld in LCA relo brackets. They don't have torque arms or k-members either, the exact thing you claim to cost more to create. Coincidence? Nobody's arguing, simply explaining basic principles and facts on how a company, any company, can enter an established market with lower then average overhead. Sorry you took it so personal
Old 03-14-2012 | 01:38 PM
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My friend ordered a few things from founders and said it was great quality too. I thought about it but I personally want all, or most, of my suspension stuff to be the same and I alreay have a bunch of UMI stuff, so if UMI makes it, I'll buy it. I plan on purchasing BMR lowering a-arms simply because UMI foesn't make them. I don't want a bunch of random parts. Seems to me that same brands 'tend' to work hetter with eachother and be less "mutt-ish". That's my .02, I have no issues with founders at all and support them.
Old 03-16-2012 | 11:17 AM
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I'll be getting Founders everything. I'm just torn between poly/rod or rod/rod. That's literally ALL that's holding me back.
Old 03-16-2012 | 11:30 AM
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I'd prefer poly/poly...do they not make that combo?
Old 03-16-2012 | 11:33 AM
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They do, but I don't want my suspension binding. I'm torn between those 2.

Yes, the torque arm is damn near done, and I can't wait!
Old 03-16-2012 | 11:50 AM
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Your suspension would bind more IIRC with a roto combination. Poly/poly should be the quietest. That's what ws6store told me anyway.
Old 03-16-2012 | 11:55 AM
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I'll probably do poly-body end, rod-suspension end.

Now, if we could only get Founder's to make a set of solid motor mounts that don't raise your motor a half inch....
Old 03-16-2012 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by UnVMySS
Your suspension would bind more IIRC with a roto combination. Poly/poly should be the quietest. That's what ws6store told me anyway.
Actually its the other way around. Whoever told you that has rocks in their head, or you misheard them. Poly/Poly will bind. Roto/Roto and Rod/Rod arms will give you the most bind free operation.
Old 03-16-2012 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dr_whigham
I'll probably do poly-body end, rod-suspension end.

Now, if we could only get Founder's to make a set of solid motor mounts that don't raise your motor a half inch....
Motovative umi and Midwest chassis make solid motor mounts that don't raise your motor
Old 03-16-2012 | 01:12 PM
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Ok well perhaps I misunderstood "noise" for "binding"... So what would the best combo be? I want to order some too:
Old 03-16-2012 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by UnVMySS
Ok well perhaps I misunderstood "noise" for "binding"... So what would the best combo be? I want to order some too:
Depends on what you are trying to achieve? Daily driver, road race or autocross, drag racing or some combination of the three. What is the percentage of time spent doing each, or what is the highest priority?
Old 03-16-2012 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by lees02WS6
Depends on what you are trying to achieve? Daily driver, road race or autocross, drag racing or some combination of the three. What is the percentage of time spent doing each, or what is the highest priority?
what do you reccomend for some great handling/cornering for dd street driving?
Old 03-16-2012 | 01:35 PM
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Well I don't daily drive it... And it will see some track in the future, some twisties... Etc
Old 03-16-2012 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by UnVMySS
Well I don't daily drive it... And it will see some track in the future, some twisties... Etc
The UMI roto/roto arms will remove the deflection that hampers drag strip performance, and will allow bind free operation for handling (if you race in a class for course racing check the rule book first though).
Old 03-16-2012 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lees02WS6
The UMI roto/roto arms will remove the deflection that hampers drag strip performance, and will allow bind free operation for handling (if you race in a class for course racing check the rule book first though).


But it will just be noisy? How noisy?
Old 03-16-2012 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by UnVMySS
But it will just be noisy? How noisy?
This is a loaded question, and your asking a guy who is very picky about noise. If it were only a street car I'd only run rubber. If I had performance driving in mind, and only performance, I'd run roto/roto or heim/heim.

UMI claims that the delrin race absorbs road noise much better then heims, and the roto-joints are far more streetable. Your tolerance will determine a lot about what's exceptable to you, my tolerance for noise is extremely low.

Having said that, I would never run poly in a control arm application, the stuff binds. I'd rather have a working noisy part, then a quiet part that binds up.

You could also buy swedge tubes and use any type of bushing end from rubber, or rubber rod end like the seals-it elastomers, to johnny joints, to heim joints.

Last edited by lees02WS6; 03-17-2012 at 10:05 AM.
Old 03-16-2012 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by babbage1109
Motovative umi and Midwest chassis make solid motor mounts that don't raise your motor
That'sjust the mount itself that attaches to the motor. You'd still have to use the heavy *** stock pedestals, or pony up another 100 bucks for the light-weight pedestals. I'm trying to convince Founder's to pretty much make these pictured, just a half inch or so shorter.

Old 03-16-2012 | 07:29 PM
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Now you're just splitting hairs. Lol. Sheesh
Old 03-16-2012 | 08:48 PM
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or make them yourself. The gussets are simply bought items, you can get them from any circle track shop. They are standard chassis fab. gussets. Coleman, day motorsports, speedwaymotors...blablabla.
Old 03-17-2012 | 12:25 AM
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Just to throw this in i want to buy a set of LCA/'s and was wondering what would be the best combination for my car which is a daily driver and sees the track almost everyother weekend?


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