Founder Performance
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I won't sit here and argue with you because it will be pointless. But a lot of our products are not copies of others. We designed them, we test and we support them. We don't have a single high school kid working here. Have you looked at the going rate of a mechanical engineer lately? Not cheap.
Control arms and panhard bars are simple, tubing, bushings and weld. Front a-arms, k-members ect take more time and effort to design.
Control arms and panhard bars are simple, tubing, bushings and weld. Front a-arms, k-members ect take more time and effort to design.
My friend ordered a few things from founders and said it was great quality too. I thought about it but I personally want all, or most, of my suspension stuff to be the same and I alreay have a bunch of UMI stuff, so if UMI makes it, I'll buy it. I plan on purchasing BMR lowering a-arms simply because UMI foesn't make them. I don't want a bunch of random parts. Seems to me that same brands 'tend' to work hetter with eachother and be less "mutt-ish". That's my .02, I have no issues with founders at all and support them.
I'll probably do poly-body end, rod-suspension end.
Now, if we could only get Founder's to make a set of solid motor mounts that don't raise your motor a half inch....
Now, if we could only get Founder's to make a set of solid motor mounts that don't raise your motor a half inch....
Actually its the other way around. Whoever told you that has rocks in their head, or you misheard them. Poly/Poly will bind. Roto/Roto and Rod/Rod arms will give you the most bind free operation.
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Depends on what you are trying to achieve? Daily driver, road race or autocross, drag racing or some combination of the three. What is the percentage of time spent doing each, or what is the highest priority?
what do you reccomend for some great handling/cornering for dd street driving?
The UMI roto/roto arms will remove the deflection that hampers drag strip performance, and will allow bind free operation for handling (if you race in a class for course racing check the rule book first though).
This is a loaded question, and your asking a guy who is very picky about noise. If it were only a street car I'd only run rubber. If I had performance driving in mind, and only performance, I'd run roto/roto or heim/heim.
UMI claims that the delrin race absorbs road noise much better then heims, and the roto-joints are far more streetable. Your tolerance will determine a lot about what's exceptable to you, my tolerance for noise is extremely low.
Having said that, I would never run poly in a control arm application, the stuff binds. I'd rather have a working noisy part, then a quiet part that binds up.
You could also buy swedge tubes and use any type of bushing end from rubber, or rubber rod end like the seals-it elastomers, to johnny joints, to heim joints.
UMI claims that the delrin race absorbs road noise much better then heims, and the roto-joints are far more streetable. Your tolerance will determine a lot about what's exceptable to you, my tolerance for noise is extremely low.
Having said that, I would never run poly in a control arm application, the stuff binds. I'd rather have a working noisy part, then a quiet part that binds up.
You could also buy swedge tubes and use any type of bushing end from rubber, or rubber rod end like the seals-it elastomers, to johnny joints, to heim joints.
Last edited by lees02WS6; Mar 17, 2012 at 09:05 AM.
or make them yourself. The gussets are simply bought items, you can get them from any circle track shop. They are standard chassis fab. gussets. Coleman, day motorsports, speedwaymotors...blablabla.
