Do I need new springs?
#1
Do I need new springs?
2000 SS with 100,000 miles. All original and stock. I noticed it didn't look level from behind so I measured all 4 corners. They were all 4 different.
LF 27 1/2
RF 27 1/8
LR 27 3/4
RR 28 1/8
How do I correct ride height? New springs or something else?
LF 27 1/2
RF 27 1/8
LR 27 3/4
RR 28 1/8
How do I correct ride height? New springs or something else?
#5
You probably just need to re-index the rear springs, the front should be good once you get in the car. The front could also be off from the caster and camber being different from side-to-side, but 3/8" variation is about normal.
#7
The original factory springs will sag over time, yes. We offer a lifetime warranty against sag on our lowering springs and can do so because of the high-quality materials and manufacturing process. Each spring is compressed flat twice before being sold and tested for consistency which is with 2%! This step in manufacturing allows them to retain the same height for as long as you own your car.
Our springs will bring your ride height to around 26-inches up front and about 26 3/4 for the rear. With the hose mod, the ride height is about dead even.
- Kevin
Our springs will bring your ride height to around 26-inches up front and about 26 3/4 for the rear. With the hose mod, the ride height is about dead even.
- Kevin
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#8
The original factory springs will sag over time, yes. We offer a lifetime warranty against sag on our lowering springs and can do so because of the high-quality materials and manufacturing process. Each spring is compressed flat twice before being sold and tested for consistency which is with 2%! This step in manufacturing allows them to retain the same height for as long as you own your car.
Our springs will bring your ride height to around 26-inches up front and about 26 3/4 for the rear. With the hose mod, the ride height is about dead even.
- Kevin
Our springs will bring your ride height to around 26-inches up front and about 26 3/4 for the rear. With the hose mod, the ride height is about dead even.
- Kevin
#9
I think you fine, your ride height seems to still be a good.
If anything you probably should check the condition of the rear upper spring isolators, and the upper mounts up front. Those could need replacing after 100k.
If anything you probably should check the condition of the rear upper spring isolators, and the upper mounts up front. Those could need replacing after 100k.
#10
If you're measuring your "ride height" at the apex of the fender openings, which it appears you are, that isn't always the most accurate place to be measuring. The factory specifies the measurement to be made at the rocker panels, about 4" behind the front wheels, and 4" ahead of the rear wheels.
#11
If you're measuring your "ride height" at the apex of the fender openings, which it appears you are, that isn't always the most accurate place to be measuring. The factory specifies the measurement to be made at the rocker panels, about 4" behind the front wheels, and 4" ahead of the rear wheels.
#13
You are 100% correct, but it's a PITA to get under there and get an accurate measurement, so most people won't go through the effort. That's why I mentioned the rocker panel measurement, as it's probably the best compromise between the a-arm point, and the "top of the fender opening" method....
#15
- Kevin
#18
First, you must realize that the car does not weigh the exact same amount at each corner, not even the two rear corners. This alone means the car will never sit exactly the same height even at the two rear corners. If you have a stock 115 pound/inch spring and one corner is 800 pounds and the other is 755, the heavier one will sit lower. Also it's pretty normal that the left side sits a touch higher than the right side on these cars.
If you want to get the heights EXACT you need ride height adjustment.
Now, do you need to change springs? Nope, given those heights they are clearly not yielded and sagging. If you want to stay stock height, keep the springs and improve the handling with shocks and swaybars, and that sort of stuff.
If you want to get the heights EXACT you need ride height adjustment.
Now, do you need to change springs? Nope, given those heights they are clearly not yielded and sagging. If you want to stay stock height, keep the springs and improve the handling with shocks and swaybars, and that sort of stuff.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
#19
What Sam said. Do a search and I'm sure you'll find pages of threads talking about the right side setting lower. I had 3 sets of springs on my SS over the years, and it always set lower on the right.
#20
I put the car on ramps in garage yesterday. I even measured ramps to be sure they all set level. I did measurements from under car and got the same differences as measuring wheel wells. I also checked everything I could. Everything tight and nothing broke.
Anyway, here's the deal. I bought this car brand new off the truck December of 1999. I've been looking at it from every angle for over 12 years. In the garage, in the driveway, across parking lots, etc. It didn't set like this most of it's life. From behind it looks like I have a flat tire.