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I have MWC 9" with long TA and PST 3.5" as-shipped the loop was a bit out of round and didnt line up perfectly, it was a touch off center and scraped the ds a bit.
It took about an hour of hard-core man-handling with various pry bars, blocks of wood, and a vice. . .but it fits perfectly now...doesnt scrape when the rear is hanging or when fully compressed...I am very satisfied with it.
First I will say that IMO this is the best design on the market and would buy it again. I am showing what I had done to suit my needs. I know, old thread but I read this post last year and massaged my MWC DSL to center my PST 3.5" drvieshaft. I did this while the DSL was mounted using a block of wood w/ floor jack. I was able to center the loop on the driveshaft keeping the DSL about a 1mm away from the torque arm but caused the passenger side brace to pull away from the tunnel and touch the exhaust. I placed heater hose on the I pipe where it contacted the DSL and left it that way for a while until I got tired of the vibration I was feeling from these two contacting each other. In my mind I felt there would be cutting and welding needed to modify the passenger side brace to clear the exhaust. After finding a welder I showed him a pic of the problem and the DSL to see what could be done. After some talk he said reheating that side of the brace to straighten it and then rebend should work. I told him that the way the DSL was (after my massaging) I needed the passenger side brace initial bend moved out no more than 20mm. After he traced a template of the DSL prior to modification to ensure the loop and mounting areas stayed the same afterwards he went to work with a torch and hammer. I am very happy with the results as the passenger side brace is flat against the tunnel and there is plenty of room all around the exhaust I pipe.
can you do a side by side of this and the previous version? the one i bought a few months ago still sits too close the DS and im going to have to pull it off and bend it to make it fit better.
I don't have any of the old version as they have been this way for some time now. Yours is sitting to close to the driveshaft? The driveshaft location hasn't ever moved on our fixture all we did was change the passenger side bends for more exhaust clearance.
After bending the loop into a little more of a circle and bending the bracket piece by the exhaust i got a little less than half an inch clearance on the bottom of the loop. but TONS of clearance at the top of the loop, really wish i could have gotten equal clearance all the way around. when I initially put the DS loop on, the bottom of the loop was touching the DS.
We oval the loops to give more room for the driveshaft to move up and down, has been that way for some time now, plus it gives more room for the torque arm.
Generally if a driveshaft is to close to one side or another the rear end needs to be squared up in the vehicle and if it is to close to the top or the bottom pinion angle could be to much in either direction. Or a combination of the two. Ride height also plays into driveshaft loop fitment.
In your situation I can see you have something under the mounting point which changes the angles of the loop from being installed properly. However a half an inch is more than enough room for a drive shaft loop.
Torque arms, exhaust, big driveshafts, lowered vehicles, and rear end movement the way it does in these vehicles can make fitting driveshaft loops tricky.
06-09-2015, 10:34 AM
