driveshaft loop for all!
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From: Central Illinois
driveshaft loop for all! If you have the need for a driveshaft loop and not much exhaust clearance or don't want it hanging down to the ground like all the other this is for you! Weighs in at a mere 5.8 pounds, is NHRA legal, and only 95.00 shipped to the lower 48!
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Is this one any different than the one yall had a couple years ago? I had trouble with that one rubbing my 3.5" PST driveshaft and any bending ment it rubbed my kooks piping after the Y pipe. Ended up throwing it away. Still looking for a DS loop.
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 42
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From: Rayville,LA
I got my MWC 9", PST 3.5" driveshaft in around february and my ds safety loop hits the driveshaft. Don't have it in the car right now but am thinking of cutting the driver side arm off it so I can bend it to clear, figure just one mounting point should be enough, I HOPE.
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From: Central Illinois
We have a whole lot of these loops out there with 3.5" driveshafts with no clearance issues at all. How much clearance one guy vs the other may have all depends on individual setups. There isn't much room down there to begin with so to make a NHRA legal, bolt-in loop fit everyone's application without dragging the ground like most do is not the easiest thing to do. We are capable of doing custom mods for tough applications if someone were to need such a thing.
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 111
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From: midland, Tx
Do u have any for a convertible?
Do you think this will work with my Global West torque arm? It has some bolt pattern for some loop, but not sure whos fits? I've researched the Global West site and found nothing. My torque arm mount already rubs the drivers side tunnel, so I'm not sure if yours will work?
Also rubbed my PST 3.5" shaft, tried a bunch of different things as per Jason @ MWC, but never could get it to quit rubbing when I hit bumps.. Stock ride height, umi 3 points (which is why I figured I had this problem and others didn't) t56 and MWC rear with watts link... Ended up just taking it off, and selling it.
He did offer to check it on the jig if I shipped it back though. I just figured I would try something else and thought my car was off.. It is a really nice piece however, and if it doesn't rub, would be very awesome.
He did offer to check it on the jig if I shipped it back though. I just figured I would try something else and thought my car was off.. It is a really nice piece however, and if it doesn't rub, would be very awesome.
Question..........
If the DS shears 1" behind that loop.....the car can still be launched if the DS hits the ground.....which it will........NO??????
It seems a loop only does the job if its in the rear 12" or so of the shaft.....not in the front section. If it shears in the rear the loop holds that 12"-15" long piece that can drop down and hit the pavement. The rest of the DS will drop down and drag.
Or slide out of the tailshaft housing like mine did when it broke while doing 80mph. So really, one on the front and one in the rear, both 12" from the ends....seems like the only way to avoid any pieces falling to the ground at all.
Or am I missing something......? I see that DS dropping right to the pavement if it shears 1" behind the loop.......then the car could go airborne....
.
If the DS shears 1" behind that loop.....the car can still be launched if the DS hits the ground.....which it will........NO??????
It seems a loop only does the job if its in the rear 12" or so of the shaft.....not in the front section. If it shears in the rear the loop holds that 12"-15" long piece that can drop down and hit the pavement. The rest of the DS will drop down and drag.
Or slide out of the tailshaft housing like mine did when it broke while doing 80mph. So really, one on the front and one in the rear, both 12" from the ends....seems like the only way to avoid any pieces falling to the ground at all.
Or am I missing something......? I see that DS dropping right to the pavement if it shears 1" behind the loop.......then the car could go airborne....
.
Thread Starter
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Dec 2006
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Likes: 5
From: Central Illinois
Do you think this will work with my Global West torque arm? It has some bolt pattern for some loop, but not sure whos fits? I've researched the Global West site and found nothing. My torque arm mount already rubs the drivers side tunnel, so I'm not sure if yours will work?
Question..........
If the DS shears 1" behind that loop.....the car can still be launched if the DS hits the ground.....which it will........NO??????
It seems a loop only does the job if its in the rear 12" or so of the shaft.....not in the front section. If it shears in the rear the loop holds that 12"-15" long piece that can drop down and hit the pavement. The rest of the DS will drop down and drag.
Or slide out of the tailshaft housing like mine did when it broke while doing 80mph. So really, one on the front and one in the rear, both 12" from the ends....seems like the only way to avoid any pieces falling to the ground at all.
Or am I missing something......? I see that DS dropping right to the pavement if it shears 1" behind the loop.......then the car could go airborne....
.
If the DS shears 1" behind that loop.....the car can still be launched if the DS hits the ground.....which it will........NO??????
It seems a loop only does the job if its in the rear 12" or so of the shaft.....not in the front section. If it shears in the rear the loop holds that 12"-15" long piece that can drop down and hit the pavement. The rest of the DS will drop down and drag.
Or slide out of the tailshaft housing like mine did when it broke while doing 80mph. So really, one on the front and one in the rear, both 12" from the ends....seems like the only way to avoid any pieces falling to the ground at all.
Or am I missing something......? I see that DS dropping right to the pavement if it shears 1" behind the loop.......then the car could go airborne....
.
In all the faster tube chassis cars, a front and rear loop are required as well as a chromoly tube where the shaft passes the driver and must enclose the front u-joint.
Factory bodied cars are not as strict because of the full steel floor pans. Don't be surprised to see NHRA mandate rear loops in the future.
Not too sure about that one. I looked at it and it is a quite unique setup, so it's hard to say if it will clear or not. Maybe email me some pics of the under side at a few different angles so I can get a better idea of what you have going on.
Your theory is true, but the single front loop is all that is required with most sanctioning bodies.
In all the faster tube chassis cars, a front and rear loop are required as well as a chromoly tube where the shaft passes the driver and must enclose the front u-joint.
Factory bodied cars are not as strict because of the full steel floor pans. Don't be surprised to see NHRA mandate rear loops in the future.
Your theory is true, but the single front loop is all that is required with most sanctioning bodies.
In all the faster tube chassis cars, a front and rear loop are required as well as a chromoly tube where the shaft passes the driver and must enclose the front u-joint.
Factory bodied cars are not as strict because of the full steel floor pans. Don't be surprised to see NHRA mandate rear loops in the future.
I'm a 100% street car, but I want both ends supported if it breaks ANYWHERE....
So....do you also make something for the rear of the DS, direct bolt-on maybe......like 10" from the u-joint..?
I'll buy them both..........
****I'll be installing a cross member mounted UMI torque arm soon......
.
