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driveshaft loop for all!

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Old 03-22-2012, 09:20 AM
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Default driveshaft loop for all!

If you have the need for a driveshaft loop and not much exhaust clearance or don't want it hanging down to the ground like all the other this is for you! Weighs in at a mere 5.8 pounds, is NHRA legal, and only 95.00 shipped to the lower 48!


Old 03-22-2012, 10:36 AM
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THAT, is actually pretty nice!
Old 03-22-2012, 11:00 AM
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That looks sweet. Appears to be a direct bolt on part -- is that correct?
Old 03-22-2012, 11:50 AM
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It is a direct bolt-on. It is designed to form-fit to the driveshaft tunnel, clear the torque arm, and not hang low like the others.
Old 03-25-2012, 01:13 AM
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Will it clear a set of TSP 3in True Duals? If so, I'm ready to buy!
Old 03-25-2012, 10:49 AM
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That it will... give us a call this week. We have them on the shelf.
Old 03-25-2012, 01:58 PM
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I'll be calling tomorrow.
Old 03-25-2012, 02:34 PM
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Is this one any different than the one yall had a couple years ago? I had trouble with that one rubbing my 3.5" PST driveshaft and any bending ment it rubbed my kooks piping after the Y pipe. Ended up throwing it away. Still looking for a DS loop.
Old 03-25-2012, 06:17 PM
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I got my MWC 9", PST 3.5" driveshaft in around february and my ds safety loop hits the driveshaft. Don't have it in the car right now but am thinking of cutting the driver side arm off it so I can bend it to clear, figure just one mounting point should be enough, I HOPE.
Old 04-06-2012, 08:50 AM
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PM sent, awesome idea!
Old 04-07-2012, 03:45 PM
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I'm going to order a cage from you this week and would like to get this also IF it'll clear my 3.5" drive shaft (Strange, not that it should matter).
Let us know
Thanks!
Old 04-08-2012, 01:11 PM
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We have a whole lot of these loops out there with 3.5" driveshafts with no clearance issues at all. How much clearance one guy vs the other may have all depends on individual setups. There isn't much room down there to begin with so to make a NHRA legal, bolt-in loop fit everyone's application without dragging the ground like most do is not the easiest thing to do. We are capable of doing custom mods for tough applications if someone were to need such a thing.
Old 04-08-2012, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ssvert99
If you have the need for a driveshaft loop and not much exhaust clearance or don't want it hanging down to the ground like all the other this is for you! Weighs in at a mere 5.8 pounds, is NHRA legal, and only 95.00 shipped to the lower 48!




Do u have any for a convertible?
Old 04-08-2012, 01:39 PM
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convertible is the same for this... I owned one!
Old 04-17-2012, 03:29 PM
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Do you think this will work with my Global West torque arm? It has some bolt pattern for some loop, but not sure whos fits? I've researched the Global West site and found nothing. My torque arm mount already rubs the drivers side tunnel, so I'm not sure if yours will work?
Old 04-17-2012, 03:35 PM
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Also rubbed my PST 3.5" shaft, tried a bunch of different things as per Jason @ MWC, but never could get it to quit rubbing when I hit bumps.. Stock ride height, umi 3 points (which is why I figured I had this problem and others didn't) t56 and MWC rear with watts link... Ended up just taking it off, and selling it.

He did offer to check it on the jig if I shipped it back though. I just figured I would try something else and thought my car was off.. It is a really nice piece however, and if it doesn't rub, would be very awesome.
Old 04-17-2012, 04:42 PM
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Question..........

If the DS shears 1" behind that loop.....the car can still be launched if the DS hits the ground.....which it will........NO??????

It seems a loop only does the job if its in the rear 12" or so of the shaft.....not in the front section. If it shears in the rear the loop holds that 12"-15" long piece that can drop down and hit the pavement. The rest of the DS will drop down and drag.
Or slide out of the tailshaft housing like mine did when it broke while doing 80mph. So really, one on the front and one in the rear, both 12" from the ends....seems like the only way to avoid any pieces falling to the ground at all.

Or am I missing something......? I see that DS dropping right to the pavement if it shears 1" behind the loop.......then the car could go airborne....



.
Old 04-17-2012, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Christian Dionne
Do you think this will work with my Global West torque arm? It has some bolt pattern for some loop, but not sure whos fits? I've researched the Global West site and found nothing. My torque arm mount already rubs the drivers side tunnel, so I'm not sure if yours will work?
Not too sure about that one. I looked at it and it is a quite unique setup, so it's hard to say if it will clear or not. Maybe email me some pics of the under side at a few different angles so I can get a better idea of what you have going on.

Originally Posted by LS6427
Question..........

If the DS shears 1" behind that loop.....the car can still be launched if the DS hits the ground.....which it will........NO??????

It seems a loop only does the job if its in the rear 12" or so of the shaft.....not in the front section. If it shears in the rear the loop holds that 12"-15" long piece that can drop down and hit the pavement. The rest of the DS will drop down and drag.
Or slide out of the tailshaft housing like mine did when it broke while doing 80mph. So really, one on the front and one in the rear, both 12" from the ends....seems like the only way to avoid any pieces falling to the ground at all.

Or am I missing something......? I see that DS dropping right to the pavement if it shears 1" behind the loop.......then the car could go airborne....



.
Your theory is true, but the single front loop is all that is required with most sanctioning bodies.

In all the faster tube chassis cars, a front and rear loop are required as well as a chromoly tube where the shaft passes the driver and must enclose the front u-joint.

Factory bodied cars are not as strict because of the full steel floor pans. Don't be surprised to see NHRA mandate rear loops in the future.
Old 04-17-2012, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ssvert99
Not too sure about that one. I looked at it and it is a quite unique setup, so it's hard to say if it will clear or not. Maybe email me some pics of the under side at a few different angles so I can get a better idea of what you have going on.



Your theory is true, but the single front loop is all that is required with most sanctioning bodies.

In all the faster tube chassis cars, a front and rear loop are required as well as a chromoly tube where the shaft passes the driver and must enclose the front u-joint.

Factory bodied cars are not as strict because of the full steel floor pans. Don't be surprised to see NHRA mandate rear loops in the future.
Thats what I thought.....for street cars (or drag cars) they can be launched into the air and flip if it breaks behind that loop.

I'm a 100% street car, but I want both ends supported if it breaks ANYWHERE....

So....do you also make something for the rear of the DS, direct bolt-on maybe......like 10" from the u-joint..?

I'll buy them both..........

****I'll be installing a cross member mounted UMI torque arm soon......

.
Old 04-18-2012, 06:06 PM
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Doesn't NHRA rule book say within 8 inches of U joint?


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