lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

I'd think it would be the lower control arm brackets being off. The LCA's would determine the centering of the wheel more than torque arm

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

......Nick D.? .......huh....

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Good point Lees. We already verified with Moser that the lower brackets are intended to match factory. Maybe Nick should check axle centerline vs Susp pickup point on his vs factory?

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Adjusting the pinion angle to rotate the yoke up will rotate the LCA mounts forward (and up), but that would be quite a lot judging by the pictures. If that fixed the problem it would create another: vibration, bearing failure etc.

Those LCA brackets can't possibly be right. Definitely verify against a stock axle if possible.

Failing that, I'd try and get the driveline angle right, take the bolts out of the LCA brackets at the axle and move the axle forward, check the driveline angle again. You're just trying to find out if those brackets are actually correctly mounted.

Nick D

I know the LCA brackets keep getting mentioned, but they were never a probelm before. This didn't start until my latest driveshaft fiasco. Let me just say that none of this was a problem prior to a month ago. No components have changed except for a new driveshaft that is the same length as before. It has got to be an adjustment somewhere. Fixed the swaybar endlinks (and ordered UMI swaybar spacer U-bolts) and "shortened" the torque arm according to UMI specs (thanks Ramey). I am scratching my head on this. There was no vibration on the drive home, but the differential was rubbing on the upper panhard brace again. Does the car have to be perfectly level when I set the pinion angle or just having the suspension loaded? Since I may not get a set of ramps, would jack stands on the rear axle on a driveway suffice for setting the pinion angle? I will get pics up tomorrow.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

I have set driveline angle without being on level ground. The idea is to get the two yokes equal, but opposite to each other. U-joints work best when they are 90° parallel to each other. Under power you'll get some pinion climb, this is why it is sometimes recommended to set the pinion to accommodate this, by letting the pinion climb to a point where it would be parallel with the tail shaft yoke.

Nick D

I think I am going to try and make it to a drive on lift on Wed or Thurs. Can anyone post pics of the bottom adjustment screw on a UMI torque arm? I got bad advice from the mechanic on Sat and now I know how to check the pinion angle. But a pic would help me get close and then I could fine tune with the angle finder. I will keep you all posted, for those that are still interested.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...6/e5e9124b.jpg

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...6/c3048048.jpg

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...6/d67cd835.jpg

Nick D

So I think I will have the chance to set the pinion angle today. Got a day off during the week and need to take advantage of it. Wish me luck!

Nick D

Thanks to Sam Strano and Ramey at UMI Performance. You guys have helped me get my car back. It took a little longer, but both of you were spot on. I am now going to install Strano swaybars and UMI swaybar spacers. I will be able to do this this afternoon or tomorrow morning. So excited!

Nick D

Front sway bar done...rear sway bar and spacers in the morning. My endlinks were jacked up in the front and the passenger endlink was only hand tight. The car felt great driving it home after everything was all tightened up, but I didn't get on it too much because I had the rear sway bar and endlinks in the car and I didn't want them flying around. I cannot wait...