How to check A-arm bushings? (Tire wear issues)
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How to check A-arm bushings? (Tire wear issues)
I'm having some odd tire wear issues, and I've had the car's alignment checked twice and all #s are OK - so I'm thinking the bushings are worn and causing the alignment specs to change while under certain driving conditions, but while on a rack, it looks fine.
Are there any tests I can perform to check for worn bushings?
I'm thinking my toe and camber is adjusting under load while driving. I should be getting better tire life out of my driver side....it's wearing out on the inner tire. The car tends to pull left at times, right other times, and sometimes is dead straight, so bushings were my first thought.
Do Tie Rods cause it to wonder from one side to another, depending on various conditions?
Any input?
Are there any tests I can perform to check for worn bushings?
I'm thinking my toe and camber is adjusting under load while driving. I should be getting better tire life out of my driver side....it's wearing out on the inner tire. The car tends to pull left at times, right other times, and sometimes is dead straight, so bushings were my first thought.
Do Tie Rods cause it to wonder from one side to another, depending on various conditions?
Any input?
Last edited by 01 ss vert; 04-24-2012 at 02:58 PM.
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The first thing is to inspect them closely with good lighting -- if they are all cracked and separating rubber -- you know what to do.
How many miles on the car? If the car goes through harsh weather or winters/salt, chances are even greater of deterioration. (unlikely since it's a 'vert)
How many miles on the car? If the car goes through harsh weather or winters/salt, chances are even greater of deterioration. (unlikely since it's a 'vert)
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From what I have read, they are a PITA to do yourself, but people do them at home. Luckily, I had my RS' lower A-Arms replaced under extended warranty (<80k, but a year round daily driver that sees harsh winter salt, etc.) at a dealer shop -- they simply installed brand new A-Arms. They were heavily cracked and separating rubber. Along with alignment (required when this is done), the car drove WAY better afterwards -- was surprising how much better it was!
Haven't replaced them on my SS 'vert yet, but it does not see salt, and the bushings look much better, but are probably worn too at 98k mi.
I do have the old ones, if you or anyone wants to replace the bushings on A-Arms already removed. PM me if interested in them.
Haven't replaced them on my SS 'vert yet, but it does not see salt, and the bushings look much better, but are probably worn too at 98k mi.
I do have the old ones, if you or anyone wants to replace the bushings on A-Arms already removed. PM me if interested in them.
Last edited by libertyforall1776; 04-24-2012 at 02:22 PM.
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From what I have read, they are a PITA to do yourself, but people do them at home. Luckily, I had my RS' lower A-Arms replaced under extended warranty (<80k, but a year round daily driver that sees harsh winter salt, etc.) at a dealer shop -- they simply installed brand new A-Arms. They were heavily cracked and separating rubber. Along with alignment (required when this is done), the car drove WAY better afterwards -- was surprising how much better it was!
Haven't replaced them on my SS 'vert yet, but it does not see salt, and the bushings look much better, but are probably worn too at 98k mi.
I do have the old ones, if you or anyone wants to replace the bushings on A-Arms already removed. PM me if interested in them.
Haven't replaced them on my SS 'vert yet, but it does not see salt, and the bushings look much better, but are probably worn too at 98k mi.
I do have the old ones, if you or anyone wants to replace the bushings on A-Arms already removed. PM me if interested in them.
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I just replaced all my suspension bushings without a lift. On the front suspension the toughest part was the big rear lower bushings - the bolt was rusted solid to the bushings. Might be worse on a car that sees the winter like mine. I do have a press but you can bring it to a shop and have them press the bushings out/in for you.
This job did end up being a lot of work. Once you take it all apart you might as well do everything if it needs it - shocks, ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends, hubs, brakes.
This job did end up being a lot of work. Once you take it all apart you might as well do everything if it needs it - shocks, ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends, hubs, brakes.
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I just replaced all my suspension bushings without a lift. On the front suspension the toughest part was the big rear lower bushings - the bolt was rusted solid to the bushings. Might be worse on a car that sees the winter like mine. I do have a press but you can bring it to a shop and have them press the bushings out/in for you.
This job did end up being a lot of work. Once you take it all apart you might as well do everything if it needs it - shocks, ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends, hubs, brakes.
This job did end up being a lot of work. Once you take it all apart you might as well do everything if it needs it - shocks, ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends, hubs, brakes.
What did that project end up costing you? (ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends, hubs) I have brand new brakes (calipers, rotors, pads, lines, and fluid).
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I got Timken hubs from Autozone, 2 x $130. I got Moog bushings, ball joints & tie rod ends from rockauto - about $390 total. That includes all end link bushings and the front sway bar bushings. I think the only bushings I missed on the car were the center ones on the rear sway bar. I'll pick those up at some point. I got Bilsteins from the Ws6store. After fighting with the rusted bolts on the strut mounts (and the high miles) I replaced those too with Moog for 2 x $50.
I'm not done yet, close though. Just have to do the brakes this weekend and get an alignment. If the car doesn't feel tight I'm going to be cranky.
I'm not done yet, close though. Just have to do the brakes this weekend and get an alignment. If the car doesn't feel tight I'm going to be cranky.
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the test would be similar but it usually only works if the bushings are completely shot. You'd have to lift the car so the lower control arms hang, then grasp the wheel at 9 and 3, wiggle it back and forth. If the bushings are really shot you'll feel the play. You'd have to have someone watching the bushings for play.