SMR#002

iTrader: (9)

I have the MWC ones. They tuck in pretty well and have had no problems with them.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

While there is some validity to your statement, you should be careful who you mention. Lets be honest... how many 6 and 7 second cars are out there really, and then the other sponsors are promoting as well?

Mike Brown and Mark Koehler of Ohio boys racing are record holding 6 second cars, LASTLS1 here(Andy) will be a 6 second car. None of them have SFC and we have never claimed them to have, yet all run the full compliment of MWC chassis, rearends, and full suspension.

Of the cars we have done here that get the 25.5 or better chassis upgrades we do not use connectors, and have cut existing ones from the car during the build.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

^ As he said, running sfc's with any 25. cert chassis is redundant and useless. So while I agree with your point, most off the shelf parts only appeal to the 9-12 second crowd to begin with. Most guys looking to go faster will drop their car at a chassis shop and let them build what is needed.
That being said, I do however have a local customer who has gone into the 8's with his car with SFC's and not a stick of cage in the car Needless to say, he was asked not to come back until that situation was remedied. So, people do it but it is normally not recommended

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I wasn't trying to point out any one sponsor, or any sponsor for that fact. I've had subframe connectors on my car since it was about a year old, and back then it was slp double diamond bolt in connectors, and now it's another companies weld in ones, and my car at 15 years old, with ~65k miles on it is still pretty tight and the ttops don't leak or rattle, nor does the dash.

I wasn't trying to add any fuel to the fire here, but just pointing out that if you're looking to run single digit times, then subframe connectors aren't of benefit to you with a 6,10, 25.x cage in the car. That's all, no pokes or jabs at anyone.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

It's all good, you made a very valid point.

TennesseeTA

The Koni STR.T
or the
Bilstien SLP set

I had Bilstiens from the factory on my 99 Miata and they seemed to work fine with no issues.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Not to hi-jack the thread too much, these two shock are pretty comparable IMHO. I do like the Koni STR.T shocks a little better as they seem to offer a little bit better handling and performance but you really can't go wrong either way. We have both the Koni and Bilstein shocks in stock so if there is anything we can help you out with just let us know.

meeklay812

iTrader: (6)

I've got he UMI 3pt weld in SFCs sitting in the garage right now. Can't give any reviews yet, obviously, but they seem like real solid pieces.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Have photos of the ones for a Vert with the additional connection points mentioned? Is there a 3 or more point version as well?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

As a tidbit, there is no SLP Bilstein anymore. They still have them badged as SLP but all valving has been changed to the HD line. The SLP specific valving is now defunct. Meaning the SLP and HD Bilstein is the exact same shock....now, it wasn't at one point though.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

We only offer one style SFC as pictured above which is on a convertible. With all our customers that drag race, auto-x, or road race we have not came across a need to manufacture anything else.

We have multiple customers utilizing our fabricated nine inch with a long arm, watts link, and LCA with our weld in SFC for road racing/auto-x and none have ever came back asking if we could make them more points for the SFC.

BIGsmokey10

iTrader: (3)

Here's a couple better pics of mwc ones that I just spot welded when I snapped a couple pics.

BIGsmokey10

iTrader: (3)

TennesseeTA

Thanks very much for posting those. That really helps. Did you have to remove carpet to install? Was it pretty straightforward.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

If you really want to make us road race guys happy, build a cambered fab9 with strange or Baer's new floater setups for the street.

BIGsmokey10

iTrader: (3)

Yes there is a very small part mid way threw the car that you will lightly have to tap in with a hammer, takes about all of a minute to do that. Get 2 jacks to hold the sun frame in place if no one can help you. Grind your spots where your gonna weld and that's it...

Lol on my part, I figured I would try to put a couple beads halfway threw the car where the metal is very thin and burned a small hole in my carpet. ... weld was way way to hot for that thin of metal.


If you weld up front and rear only where you need to , you will not need to pull the carpet, that was a ******** move on my part

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

That request is lucky to come up once every few years, with all that is involved I just don't see it ever happening.

TennesseeTA

Thanks. Would rather not remove carpet so will make sure that we just weld at the ends. I just ordered a set for my 99 Convertible which they say requires a bit of notching before installation. It has been a hard decision. I hope it works out. Now onto socks and tires.

BIGsmokey10

iTrader: (3)

It's easy. I'm a moron and can do it , you can to

Sfc are the most simplest part of a car when. It comes to concept. Connect subframe to subframe, anything more or less is a waste. The mwc are the easiest and do all you need it to do . My buddy had some wolfes on his turbo car but If I'm not mistaken they are threw floor style ones.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

One of these days I'm getting some MWC ones. You can jack up the car from anywhere along the entire connector I heard, is that correct?

I'll admit that is currently my biggest reason for wanting SFCs at all. My full frame SUV has me spoiled and it makes tire rotations and such so much easier when I can jack up the entire side of the vehicle from one point and just slide the jackstands underneath anywhere they fit/balance out the best.