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Koni install question!!

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Old May 17, 2012 | 10:39 AM
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Default Koni install question!!

Hey guys. I know this has been covered before, but my internet here in Afghan in too slow for the search feature. I have been trying for about two hours to find my answer via google, but with no luck.

I will be installing koni 4/4 shocks and strano springs when I return home. I have read that the front strut mounts are going to need to be replaced when I do this. True or not? Car has just shy of 70k miles on it if that helps. Just trying to figure out if I need to order these or not, as im going to be itching to drive it when I get home and don't want to be waiting a few days waiting for parts.

Also, if I do need them, should I just buy the OEM GM ones? Or will KYB's be sufficient? I have heard the aftermarket ones on the driver side are made poorly and don't line up.


Thanks in advance guys!
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Old May 17, 2012 | 04:06 PM
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had this problem when i installed my koni's and strano springs.
one side was bad, was side was ok. car had about 60k miles at the time. i went ahead and replaced both sides to be safe. i ordered moog replacement from sam strano. they fit good.

good luck with the install!

tony
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Old May 17, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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I would order everything needed(AC Delco) before hand to put together the Konis and springs without taking the old stuff apart. I just did it two months ago and having to modify the crappy mounts from Oreillys to fit sucked when my stock stuff wouldn't come apart/looked like it was in awful shape so didn't even try to fight with it.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 09:16 PM
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I've done shock installs on two Camaros. The first time I was able to reuse the mounts (car had 60k miles) but the second time the mounts got destroyed while trying to remove the rusty shock nut (car had 100k miles) so it really depends on the condition of the nuts and mounts. Unfortunately you can't tell until you starting taking them off. If you do have to replace the mounts, get Moog or you're asking for grief and make sure you get the isolator plate.
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Old May 18, 2012 | 12:11 AM
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Okay, I will just order the Moog mounts from Strano then. So all I will need is the strut mounts and the isolator plates? Everything else needed for this swap is included correct?
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Old May 18, 2012 | 12:21 AM
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Also, where on strano's site are these? I can't find them for the life of me.

Woudl you suggest I buy new ball joints while im at it?
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Old May 18, 2012 | 06:59 AM
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Just give Sam a call or you can order them through advance auto online and have them shipped to your house. Sam will also give you some pointers on the correct way to install the shocks/struts.

-A couple things you will want to pick up from local parts store is a little 6oz jug of antisieze and some non-locking nuts for the strut mount bolt.
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Old May 19, 2012 | 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1HIGHLIFE
Just give Sam a call or you can order them through advance auto online and have them shipped to your house. Sam will also give you some pointers on the correct way to install the shocks/struts.

-A couple things you will want to pick up from local parts store is a little 6oz jug of antisieze and some non-locking nuts for the strut mount bolt.
Okay, thanks.

It's a pain to use the phones over here, so I emailed Sam and asked him about the strut mounts. Waiting for a reply.
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Old May 19, 2012 | 10:22 PM
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50k miles here, mounts were fine.
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Old May 19, 2012 | 10:41 PM
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The way I figure, you're putting good high end shocks and springs on your car, so it is worth just doing the new mounts too, IMO. Though I recommend planning on new mounts regardless.

Moog and OEM are the only two I'd touch, Moog being better IMO since they come with standard bolts and not those retarded torx bolts that the OEM ones have. Rock Auto has the Moogs cheaper than Advance does, only 51 bucks each.

Don't forget that you'll need to save your original dogbone piece that fits inside the top of the mounts. Odds are the original will be in decent shape. Heck, if mine were on my 98 even though the rest was garbage at 120k miles, then I would hope that yours at half the miles and likely less rusty would be fine
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Old May 20, 2012 | 02:34 PM
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this is what i ran into on the strut mounts on my car

needless to say it took another 2 weeks to finish the car up by the time i got the parts in. I replaced them with oem parts i think there where 51$ a piece from rockauto.
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Old May 24, 2012 | 07:03 PM
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I just took mine apart and they are on par with above pic. So what all do I need to order to put new back together without trying to get the old one apart. I know the upper mount, but is there a peice that goes inside it and what about where the spring sits on the lower perch? And does anybody have advice on what kind of upper ball joints to get as mine are wore and need to be replaced.
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Old May 24, 2012 | 08:23 PM
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Strut mount, Rubber isolater and the spring perch (what the spring sits on). I assume you will make no attempt at taking that apart because i know i'm not that brave.
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Old May 24, 2012 | 09:15 PM
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put it in a spring compressor and take an air chisle to it, that's what I had to do to my old Decarbons.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 06:28 AM
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no I'm not attempting to get the mess apart. Thanks for the reply, I was hoping mine didnt look that bad. That was a pipe dream. I will get the parts ordered today and get it back together.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Wile E's 98
no I'm not attempting to get the mess apart.
Pack some marine grease into that new setup .

BobP
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Old May 26, 2012 | 08:14 AM
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Yeah had the grease on my mind already. I thinking of maybe drilling a hole in the mount somewhere to let water back out. Has anyone tried that?
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 08:04 PM
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I know this is few days old but I'm just now getting to the left side. Does anyone have some advice on getting the torks head bolts out. I moved the master cylinder but I can't get then to break loose. I've broken two sockets and striped one of the bolts. I tried a search but haven't found anything useful.
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Wile E's 98
I know this is few days old but I'm just now getting to the left side. Does anyone have some advice on getting the torks head bolts out. I moved the master cylinder but I can't get then to break loose. I've broken two sockets and striped one of the bolts. I tried a search but haven't found anything useful.
You might try heating them up then use a pair of visegrips. If that still doesnt work you might have to use a cut off wheel and chisel. Hope that helps...
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 06:10 AM
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Yeah ill try heating them. I was a little aggravated last night. Thanks.


Done ! Wound up drilling them out yeah drilling them! But any way thanks to everybody forToy the advice.

Last edited by Wile E's 98; Jun 2, 2012 at 06:14 PM.
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