I disagree, I have been aligning these cars for years and I've found the best amount of camber to be between 0.3-0.5 degrees.

I will however say I completely agree with the toe and caster issues. He's definitely got it set too far outwards. I usually set it .01-.05 degrees toe in so that the turning is precise and tight. As well as the caster. Get as much as you can and then even everything out.

Usually we throw weight in the seats to adjust for the driver's weight but it's not always necessary. I would definitely take it in and have it redone though.

 

So you're saying my total toe should be anywhere from .01 - .05 since mine is .08? I thought any positive toe number is toe in?

I'm taking my car back to the shop in less than 2 hours so I need to educate myself quick!

 

I apologize, I can't see the posted pics from my work internet. So I've been just following what people have been saying.

If you have toe out, that will definitely make your car feel twitchy. You either want a totally even toe setting (0) or toe in. I'd go for even toe.

 

His After (Actual) setting for toe is +0.04 on each side, so does positive mean toe in...?

 

Yes, the technician at the shop confirmed that positive toe is definitely toe in.

He also said the caster is maxed out and said it might seem a little twitchy because of my tires (Nitto Invo).

 

From personal experience anything more than -1.0 would wear the outside edge of tires. Could just be attributed to GM's build quality on these cars...

 

Most of the roads that are crowned here are in the neighborhood streets so I've never had a problem with this.

 

I guess it boils down to where ya live and how the roads are. Most of the roads in Tulsa are old so they have a crown to them. I do alignments everyday so it's something I have come accustomed too.

 

Do you mean inside edge? Outside edge would wear due to negative camber

 

I'm running 1.3 negative camber and it seems about right. I don't have any tire wear issues with it.
Check out the photo and you can see how all that camber goes away when you go around a corner.



BTW it only takes about $75 in tools and a little patience to properly align an F body yourself. I wouldn't let any shop touch mine.

 

Can we come to an agreement on the best specs for a lowered car? Mine is getting aligned soon once I lower it lol. I want what's best..

 

Imo, worth what you paid, you want the maximum positive caster, max negative camber, and toe even...a tiny bit out for aggressive handling a tiny bit in for it to "find center" more easily...in all these cases, "max" is the maximum that can be equaled on both sides.

Accounting for road crowning in a performance car seems bizarre to me...also, not easy to get any negative camber with stock arms on a lowered car, but you want what you can get, that is what keeps the car from following grooves so badly. You won't wear the inside of the tire until you get to -2 or more unless you never turn.

As for toe, the more "in" you run the more it tends to understeer and the "heavier" the turning.

I am a big advocate for the tiniest bit of outward toe and max everything else, but I may be biased by the 1le. I love the way my car handles, factory specs SUCK.

That said, if your bushings are sketchy, do not go toe out or it will be dangerous.

 

It seems several of us have different opinions, so I will express mine:
I run very close to OE specs
I am lowered 1 3/4 to 2 '' around, my car handles quite well and gets 42-44 k miles to each set of tires,( 275/40/17 )
just my .02s Johnny

 

OP, to weigh in directly, your alignment looks damn fine in my opinion. But if you are used to stock alignment it will feel twitchy as hell for a few weeks...LOL, I remember first making the change. Make sure your air pressure is right and pay attention to how your car is actually doing what you tell it and does NOT follow grooves as much or feel so heavy in the cloverleaf or changing lanes...but just turn the toe in if it's too darty for ya.

 

Manufacturing tolerances were not that consistent on these and I would not just max anything out. I have seen from -1 to -1.6 camber available depending on the car.

I better way to pick your specs is to align the car for what you are going to use it for. If you are a straight line guy you don't need all that negative camber. It will just wear the insides of your tires especially if you are running different sizes and can't rotate them. If you are a cone carver then the more the better but I would run the same size tires so can rotate them.

For caster I have found +4.5 to be a good setting for both straight line and road racing. Even though some cars will give you more I have seen no benefit to go beyond that.

[QUOTE=therabidweasel;16392611]Accounting for road crowning in a performance car seems bizarre to me...QUOTE]

Couldn't agree more.

If your bushings are sketchy lowing the car will doom them for sure. Bad control arm bushings, especially the lower rear ones, will kill your tires pretty quick. Parts are pretty cheap so if in doubt change them.

 

I wrote up a how to on alignments if you want to check out doing them yourself.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...alignment.html