Just wondering if these guys did a good job or not for daily driver spec.





Just curious to what you all have to say because it still looks like I still have too much negative camber. Seems like the tire points into the car a little too much. What do you guys think? Maybe I just need spacers?



Also why -.5 camber instead of 0? I would assume 0 camber means most possible rubber on the road which should equal more traction right and better wear.

 

I've never gotten a readout like that If it's all within specs you're fine. To say it looks one way or the other is kinda silly. That machine is probably an excellent piece of equipment. Plus based on your last statement you don't seem to know the definitions of the alignment specs. This is why we don't do alignments in our driveways.....

 

Oh yeah, you're right, I don't know anything about alignment specs. Probably why I stopped doing alignments in my driveway Seriously though the reason why I bring it up is because the car still seems twitchy. All cars I've driven naturally want to go in a straight line on the freeway. My Z28 will start veering off in different directions very easily if I don't constantly make tiny adjustments to keep it center in the lane (even on straight aways). Something just isn't right and I don't know what it is

 

your camber is out of ajustment it supose to be -.1 to .9 ( you have -.4 and -.5)

and your pass caster is out of ajautment its supose tobe 4.3 to 5.3 and you have 5.7

all of the numbers must be green to be a good alignment

 

I don't know... to me it seems like the stock alignment specs tend to make the outside edge of the tire wear prematurely. I've seen so many people with this happening to them. My theory is that -.5 will wear more evenly.

What size front wheels and what kind of tire do you have on the front? There's plenty of threads revolved around the car following ruts in the road. Do you think this may be what's happening to you? It happens to me. I just live with it

 

Are you lowered? That will cause the decrease in camber

 

Yeah I was wondering about the caster myself. I recently did a search and a lot of people say the passenger should be about .2 - .5 more than the passenger because of crowning in the road. I'm still very new at this so I'll assume that is done right. Anyone else care to chime in on this?


What camber spec do you have on your car?

The front wheels are 9.5" wide with Nitto Invo 275/35/18. The car does follow ruts on the road but I don't know why I only experience that with my car and not any other car I drive. It's kind of annoying


I am lowered. I should have mentioned that in the original post. I have a 1.5" drop on DMS springs and Koni 4/4's.

 

Only if you never turn your steering wheel.
Having 0 camber will have you using the outside of your tires more aggressively and wearing them. Mine did big time when I was on "stock" alignment (0 camber), Im on -1.0 camber now and its much better.

False.
Green just mean manufacturers suggested specs. You can alter tire wear and handling for the better if you go with more camber than 0.

 

Thank you, that makes a lot of sense.

 

Depending on how low your car is right now that may be max Camber without notching the holes to pull the arm in a little more.
I will have to throw my car back on the rack and get the printout but I believe im close to the same as you but with even Caster. Also my Camber on the right side would not match my left even with the hole notched being this low, time for adjustable control arms or offset bushings from Strano.

Only so much you can do with stock parts on a lowered car and this is where I am at on the passenger side as well as the drivers.

 

Let me know how it goes after you get your parts from Sam and get realigned. Btw cars looking good

 

Thanks man.
All my tires wear evenly so I have not been too rushed to get a perfect reading... if there is such a thing.
I do have some serious wandering but I blame it on wider tires.

Amazing how this thing rode like it was on pillows when it was all stock sitting 2 ft off the ground with some 225's.

 

Haha I can't agree with you more

 

well then thats why youre out of "spec" you will be fine with the extra camber, just watch the inside tire wear to make sure it is not excessive.

The only way to fix that is going to an aftermarket arm, but that additional camber will give you better cornering stability, so you might want to keep it that way.

the reason you get more grip with "less tire contact" as you mentioned earlier is because as the car goes around a corner, the weight is thrown to one side of the car, which makes it lean slightly. The negative camber counteracts this leaning and you actually end up with more tire contact patch than you would with 0 camber.
hope that helped!

 

If the 0.04° toe on each side is "toe-in", then I would be happy with those specs.

( positive toe is "toe-in", right...? )

 

Yeah, the cornering is pretty good with this camber setting, but I have a pretty relaxed driving style. I was more concerned about tire wear than anything so I'm good now. Anyway, who knows I might be taking turns a little faster than I should after this alignment thanks for the input!

Yes I was wondering this myself. If I had to take a guess, I would say positive toe would be toe in. My alignment results said I now have positive toe and it drives fairly straight. After reading some posts on here, negative toe would mean the car would be following groves like nothing. Correct me if I'm wrong

 

Your good to go. Tires should wear pretty even for you.

I've got -1.5 camber. I'm not sure why this car follows ruts more than others. Maybe the wider tires do it. Name another car that can fit 275+ width tires on the front... hell I've got 315's on the front of mine.

 

Yes, especially at freeway speeds; toe out makes the car feel twitchy.

 

You have too much negative camber. Should be -.1 at the most. The reason your car is feeling twitchy is because you have toe out, meaning the front of both tires are poining outwards. Toe in will solve this problem. On these cars on the stock components go for as much caster as you can get. The numbers from left to right should be as close to the same as you can get them.

 

If you have caster set equal ( no split) the car will pull right. A split of -.3 to -.5 is what you want to fight the crown of the road.