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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 09:21 AM
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so a couple of weeks ago my cousin hit a curb and bent the k member/engine cradle so my question is how much do shops charge to swap a new one out?
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by astro11271984
so a couple of weeks ago my cousin hit a curb and bent the k member/engine cradle so my question is how much do shops charge to swap a new one out?
honestly... thats not a hard operation. it could be done in a weekend. youll just have to pay for an alignment afterwards.

id imagine that it would be no more than $500 plus the cost of the new part.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 11:18 AM
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Thanks man yah i was thinking around that price range just wanted some other opinions
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 12:14 AM
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Sounds like a good excuse to buy an aftermarket tubular K-member...
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 01:12 PM
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Yah might as well looking into them now
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 05:47 AM
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if you have a jack and a couple of jack stands and baisc hand tools, all that needs to be done is take out bolts and then drop kmember and install the new one. Put a Jackstand under the enging oil pan on a block of wood. Then if you mess with the a- arms an alignment. Thats if you want to save cash. UMI and BMR even have how to instructions on there site(s)
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Undertow74
if you have a jack and a couple of jack stands and baisc hand tools, all that needs to be done is take out bolts and then drop kmember and install the new one. Put a Jackstand under the enging oil pan on a block of wood. Then if you mess with the a- arms an alignment. Thats if you want to save cash. UMI and BMR even have how to instructions on there site(s)
it really is as simple as that. except for getting the motor mounts lined up, this is a relatively simple procedure. definitely worth the money saved to do it yourself.
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 11:56 AM
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Good to know i think ill make a weekend project out of it
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 03:20 PM
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If you buy a set of tube k-members, make sure that you get the UMI unit.

Def the best out there that I've used.
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 03:25 PM
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Doesn't the BMR weigh a tad bit less?
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ss2nv
Sounds like a good excuse to buy an aftermarket tubular K-member...
oh yeah..
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 12:20 PM
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If you or your relatives are bending the stock piece, you
do not want lightest weight as your primary goal. Go for
tough.

And have a look to see that it's not really an A-arm bent,
or a simple movement of the K against its adjustment bolts.
The stock piece is pretty damn stout, as a unit.
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 01:30 PM
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Had another tread in the section titled something bent one of the members told me it was the k member i think the a arm was a little streched out so ill have to replace that to but the k member had a dent on it from the underside
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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The UMI piece is definitely stronger. Get the "road race" version if you buy any at all. I would also opt for the mild-steel version. Unlike Chromoly, mild steel will bend before it cracks.

Also, the lower tube A-arms like to bend at the shock perches. If your handy with a TIG welder, you can do box and gusset the perches to prevent bending all together.

Haven't test these yet, BTW



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Old Jun 19, 2012 | 09:04 AM
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A K-member swap can be done by an experienced mechanic fairly easily in about a day. Preferably, renting a lift is the best option, but lowering it in your driveway can also be an option but it will be more of a PITA and could take a bit more time. We have a PDF on our website with detailed instructions.

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Old Jun 19, 2012 | 10:03 AM
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Thanks Kevin i was reading it yesterday seems easy enough and confident that i can do it myself looks like ill be looking into a k member through you guys
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Old Jun 19, 2012 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by astro11271984
Thanks Kevin i was reading it yesterday seems easy enough and confident that i can do it myself looks like ill be looking into a k member through you guys
Let me know if I can help you out!
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