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How to replace brake shoes on E-brake?
06-27-2012, 02:08 PM
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How to replace brake shoes on E-brake? How does one do this on a 01 Z28??
Is it a huge pain in the ***, or in the same ball park as adjusting the e-brake?
Is it a huge pain in the ***, or in the same ball park as adjusting the e-brake?
06-27-2012, 02:27 PM
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Super easy to replace. I take it you never replaced the rear rotors?
Remove wheel, caliper and rotor. Back off the adjuster and take the pad off. Reverse to put back on.
Here's a video of truck but it's almost exactly the same thing.
Remove wheel, caliper and rotor. Back off the adjuster and take the pad off. Reverse to put back on.
Here's a video of truck but it's almost exactly the same thing.
06-27-2012, 05:45 PM
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Super easy to replace. I take it you never replaced the rear rotors?
Remove wheel, caliper and rotor. Back off the adjuster and take the pad off. Reverse to put back on.
Here's a video of truck but it's almost exactly the same thing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AT-PxtlaX6E
Remove wheel, caliper and rotor. Back off the adjuster and take the pad off. Reverse to put back on.
Here's a video of truck but it's almost exactly the same thing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AT-PxtlaX6E
So it is the same process for F-bods as well huh? Any differences I need to know really?
I wish there was a video like this to adjust the e-brake as well lol
06-27-2012, 07:47 PM
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Ok I took pictures of my LS1 backing plates and the removed ebrake pad so you can see it. Only thing to remember is that it clips on to backing plate at the middle of the closed end of the pad. Not much more I can tell ya.
06-27-2012, 07:52 PM
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Oh I forgot to put the adjuster back in so you could see that. No more than a screw that ratchets bigger and bigger to expand. It does this automatically with repeated use of the ebrake. The adjuster fits within the silver metal tube at the top of the picture of the backing plate.
06-27-2012, 07:53 PM
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Process is so close to the fbody from that vid that I can't see any issues with following it. The clips that hold the pad are different however. Fbod's have just the one.
06-28-2012, 07:24 AM
#7
You can't just pry the shoe out with a screwdriver. We have a clip screwed to the backing plate that holds the shoe down. Getting that clip out is the only hard part.
If you are lucky, you'll have a hex head screw holding the clip down and can get it out with a ratchet. If you are unlucky, (like me) and you have a Phillips screw holding the clip - you may need to get a special L-shaped screw driver to get the thing out.
Tow other pitfalls and things go deal with:
- Your rubber boots on the back of the actuator are probably torn to hell and letting in dirt. While you have everything apart, I'd suggest cleaning all the parts, changing the boots, and re-assembling everything with brake lube. You can get new boots from RMS Auto. (They are the only place that I know of who carries them.)
- Your adjuster star wheel may be rusted/seized. If so, you'll want to free it up and re-lube the threads with brake grease. Dealing with this can be a pain.
You should also do one side at a time in case you need to refer to the other side to put things back together!
BTW - You'd really have to do some wild stuff (like drifting) to wear these pads out. Do you really need to change your brakes or are you just asking?
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06-28-2012, 12:46 PM
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Its in the same ball park as adjusting the e-brake, but there is one huge pain in the ***, which chasgiv3 alludes to - but is not in the video.
You can't just pry the shoe out with a screwdriver. We have a clip screwed to the backing plate that holds the shoe down. Getting that clip out is the only hard part.
If you are lucky, you'll have a hex head screw holding the clip down and can get it out with a ratchet. If you are unlucky, (like me) and you have a Phillips screw holding the clip - you may need to get a special L-shaped screw driver to get the thing out.
Tow other pitfalls and things go deal with:
- Your rubber boots on the back of the actuator are probably torn to hell and letting in dirt. While you have everything apart, I'd suggest cleaning all the parts, changing the boots, and re-assembling everything with brake lube. You can get new boots from RMS Auto. (They are the only place that I know of who carries them.)
- Your adjuster star wheel may be rusted/seized. If so, you'll want to free it up and re-lube the threads with brake grease. Dealing with this can be a pain.
You should also do one side at a time in case you need to refer to the other side to put things back together!
BTW - You'd really have to do some wild stuff (like drifting) to wear these pads out. Do you really need to change your brakes or are you just asking?
You can't just pry the shoe out with a screwdriver. We have a clip screwed to the backing plate that holds the shoe down. Getting that clip out is the only hard part.
If you are lucky, you'll have a hex head screw holding the clip down and can get it out with a ratchet. If you are unlucky, (like me) and you have a Phillips screw holding the clip - you may need to get a special L-shaped screw driver to get the thing out.
Tow other pitfalls and things go deal with:
- Your rubber boots on the back of the actuator are probably torn to hell and letting in dirt. While you have everything apart, I'd suggest cleaning all the parts, changing the boots, and re-assembling everything with brake lube. You can get new boots from RMS Auto. (They are the only place that I know of who carries them.)
- Your adjuster star wheel may be rusted/seized. If so, you'll want to free it up and re-lube the threads with brake grease. Dealing with this can be a pain.
You should also do one side at a time in case you need to refer to the other side to put things back together!
BTW - You'd really have to do some wild stuff (like drifting) to wear these pads out. Do you really need to change your brakes or are you just asking?
Yeah I think I am just going to replace the shoes because I have been on this two year search to solve this dreaded rubbing sound. (other thread)
06-28-2012, 06:28 PM
#10
When you look at how much a new shoe costs, I think you won't be so motivated!Why not just take the shoe out and drive it to prove that its not your parking brake? You can then put it back together after you confirm that and save the $100-200.
BTW - If you do this ^^ you'll want to be careful to get all the parts out of the mechanism because the pad holds them in place. In particular, there is a small rod behind the star wheel that you don't want to loose! All the parts are shown in the diagram attached to this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ake-parts.html
06-28-2012, 06:44 PM
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82.99 for a pair of brake shoes for the emergency brake. I spend a lot of money to make my car run like a **** so maybe I shouldn't say this but...it's a small price to pay for making sure you have a good functioning brake system in general. I go to a cubs game and spend 50 for parking, 50 for beers at the stadium and about 50 for food after the game. Chump change in my opinion.
The Mark Williams brake system I just put on the car costs about 2K. Not really worried about 83 bucks. HOWEVER if you only have 19K on the pads like I do then I don't think that's your problem. So like my cost conscious Chicago fellow native I say take it all apart and make sure you visualize how it all works and fits together. See what's wrong and moving around as best as you can first.
The Mark Williams brake system I just put on the car costs about 2K. Not really worried about 83 bucks. HOWEVER if you only have 19K on the pads like I do then I don't think that's your problem. So like my cost conscious Chicago fellow native I say take it all apart and make sure you visualize how it all works and fits together. See what's wrong and moving around as best as you can first.
06-29-2012, 08:57 AM
#12
Better to invest that money at Goose Island before and after the game. Much better beer!
06-30-2012, 09:44 AM
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Its not the source of the rubbing sound. When you look at how much a new shoe costs, I think you won't be so motivated!
Why not just take the shoe out and drive it to prove that its not your parking brake? You can then put it back together after you confirm that and save the $100-200.
BTW - If you do this ^^ you'll want to be careful to get all the parts out of the mechanism because the pad holds them in place. In particular, there is a small rod behind the star wheel that you don't want to loose! All the parts are shown in the diagram attached to this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ake-parts.html
When you look at how much a new shoe costs, I think you won't be so motivated!Why not just take the shoe out and drive it to prove that its not your parking brake? You can then put it back together after you confirm that and save the $100-200.
BTW - If you do this ^^ you'll want to be careful to get all the parts out of the mechanism because the pad holds them in place. In particular, there is a small rod behind the star wheel that you don't want to loose! All the parts are shown in the diagram attached to this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ake-parts.html
This is probably exactly what I will do to see if this sound goes away
82.99 for a pair of brake shoes for the emergency brake. I spend a lot of money to make my car run like a **** so maybe I shouldn't say this but...it's a small price to pay for making sure you have a good functioning brake system in general. I go to a cubs game and spend 50 for parking, 50 for beers at the stadium and about 50 for food after the game. Chump change in my opinion.
The Mark Williams brake system I just put on the car costs about 2K. Not really worried about 83 bucks. HOWEVER if you only have 19K on the pads like I do then I don't think that's your problem. So like my cost conscious Chicago fellow native I say take it all apart and make sure you visualize how it all works and fits together. See what's wrong and moving around as best as you can first.
The Mark Williams brake system I just put on the car costs about 2K. Not really worried about 83 bucks. HOWEVER if you only have 19K on the pads like I do then I don't think that's your problem. So like my cost conscious Chicago fellow native I say take it all apart and make sure you visualize how it all works and fits together. See what's wrong and moving around as best as you can first.
I'm all for not skimping on the brakes, hubs, or any unsprung equipment on the car as its a single point of failure between the driver and disaster. But on the parking brake - it should be as good as it was the car was delivered from the factory. The material looks thin because that's the way it was originally. Since the car doesn't move with the parking brake on, it doesn't wear away or change at all.
Better to invest that money at Goose Island before and after the game. Much better beer!
Better to invest that money at Goose Island before and after the game. Much better beer!
07-01-2012, 12:41 AM
#14
You know what would be just as good? Just put the car in neutral and rotate the hub by hand with the parking brake on. If you can't feel any resistance, that should also be an indication that nothing is rubbing.
07-02-2012, 11:07 AM
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I was suggesting to leave the actuator lever and boot on, but take out all the other parts. But....
You know what would be just as good? Just put the car in neutral and rotate the hub by hand with the parking brake on. If you can't feel any resistance, that should also be an indication that nothing is rubbing.
You know what would be just as good? Just put the car in neutral and rotate the hub by hand with the parking brake on. If you can't feel any resistance, that should also be an indication that nothing is rubbing.
When I turn the rear hub with the brake off the rubbing sound is heard, I just cannot figure out where its coming from. I believe I will be taking this project on this weekend after the 4th
07-02-2012, 02:45 PM
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I couldn't agree more, chasgiv3
07-03-2012, 09:08 AM
#17
Oh gotcha, But if the parking brake is on with the car in neutral, I shouldnt be able to turn the rear hub right?
When I turn the rear hub with the brake off the rubbing sound is heard, I just cannot figure out where its coming from. I believe I will be taking this project on this weekend after the 4th
When I turn the rear hub with the brake off the rubbing sound is heard, I just cannot figure out where its coming from. I believe I will be taking this project on this weekend after the 4th
BTW - For those who want extra insurance on the parking brakes:
The shoes aren't really the key piece of the mechanism. As I pointed out, they don't see any physical wear at all. If one really wants a reliable brake, all that is needed it a good cleaning and re-lube. Once that's done, a replacement set of lever boots will keep the whole thing clean for another 5-10 years.
12-17-2012, 09:44 PM
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Sorry. I meant the parking brake OFF. Doah!
BTW - For those who want extra insurance on the parking brakes:
The shoes aren't really the key piece of the mechanism. As I pointed out, they don't see any physical wear at all. If one really wants a reliable brake, all that is needed it a good cleaning and re-lube. Once that's done, a replacement set of lever boots will keep the whole thing clean for another 5-10 years.
BTW - For those who want extra insurance on the parking brakes:
The shoes aren't really the key piece of the mechanism. As I pointed out, they don't see any physical wear at all. If one really wants a reliable brake, all that is needed it a good cleaning and re-lube. Once that's done, a replacement set of lever boots will keep the whole thing clean for another 5-10 years.
12-18-2012, 02:14 PM
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On <competitive non-sponsor name removed> website:
2002 CHEVROLET CAMARO 5.7L V8 : Brake/Wheel Hub : Parking Brake Hardware Kit $157.79
ACDELCO Part # 1792105 Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 12454994
This has the shoes, all the hardware and the boots. plus a good pic
I have a torn boot on driver's side, but the parking brake is working OK. Kind of hurts to pay that much and do that much work for a boot, but I am replacing rear rotors, shoes and brake hoses so everything is open
2002 CHEVROLET CAMARO 5.7L V8 : Brake/Wheel Hub : Parking Brake Hardware Kit $157.79
ACDELCO Part # 1792105 Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 12454994
This has the shoes, all the hardware and the boots. plus a good pic
I have a torn boot on driver's side, but the parking brake is working OK. Kind of hurts to pay that much and do that much work for a boot, but I am replacing rear rotors, shoes and brake hoses so everything is open
Last edited by wssix99; 12-18-2012 at 03:25 PM.