kylemm1002

iTrader: (6)

Ok so I've been in the market for a new TA and seeing as summit has a umi special going on right now I'm pulling the trigger.

The car is my 95z. Not a daily. Driven only once or twice a week. It's just a toy that I will build up over time. No autocross or anything like that. It's a street car and will see a little straight line action during the summer.

I really like the price and ease of install with the tunnel mounted TA but I've read a lot of bad things about them making god awful noises and tearing up the floor and hanging real low and what not.

So my question is what kind of noise does the tunnel mount make? Bang? Pop? Clunk? Grind? Lol also I know under hard braking it causes wheel hope and binding so how do they preform slowing down in the quarter? (I assume they do ok but just had to ask)

I can live with a little noise as long as it doesnt sound like the car is coming apart!!

Thanks a lot guys I know this has been gone through over and over I just real don't know what to expect It to sound like.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for considering a UMI torque arm. When set up properly they can be pretty quiet. Fact is, you're attaching a suspension part onto the center of the floor pan and passing lots of hp through it. It's not noise per se, just you can tell something is happening down there.

Both our house cars have tunnel brace mounted torque arms. They work great, launch hard and don't hop at the track under braking. That braking is a bit different than full-g braking at a road course.

Give us a call to discuss if you'd like more clarification.
Ground clearance is no prob with the straight brace, but can be tricky with the clearanced brace on a lowered car.

kylemm1002

iTrader: (6)

I'm putting 1.26" lowering springs and run pacesetter long tubes and y pipe.
That's part 2202 right? Ok for a lowered car?

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

I have an automatic, never had a problem with noise at all with my umi tunnel TA. Not sure how it is with the m6 guys. I could tell a slight difference in braking, seems a little harder to stop but not much. Just got used to it i guess. Never experienced wheel hop or anything close to it when having to brake hard. Honestly it feels stock.

The only thing I would have done different is bought the crossmember that is straight across, not the one with the curve in it (the one i currently have). It scrapes alot. My pacesetter y-pipe would clear the straight version no problem. It helped drop my 60ft to a low 1.8 consistantly. Before it would do a 1.9-2.0 stock.


My .02 hope that helps a little.

kylemm1002

iTrader: (6)

Is that the only difference between 2202 and 2200? The 2202 has a dip in the brace to clear long tubes?

If that's the only difference I think I can get away with it being straight judging by the pictures on umi site

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

How close are you to crazy now?

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Yes the dip that we build in for extra exhaust clearance is the only difference. If you can run the straight it offers the best ground clearance, however it doesn't clear with all y-pipes.

If we can help any please ask. Thanks!

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

I had one and it's not noisy like UMI stated but, transfers any action going on with the rearend i.e. gear noise. It's a stiffer arm on the street but in a good way. If you run a spool with it, it gets really noisy inside. You can try some 1/4" rubber pads on the tunnel brace to knock a lot of noise out.

kylemm1002

iTrader: (6)

I'm just going to order it up lol. It's only money right? I don't plan on road racing any time soon I think the tunnel mount will be just fine for my weekend warrior.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

This is a question I get a lot, and I try to be very honest with customers about it. The torque arm is a suspension component that is always trying to move upward or downward in relation to the twisting of the rearend. GM knew this and took great steps to make sure the part didn't generate too much noise. This is why you see a flimsy piece of metal they call a torque arm mounted under the car attached to the transmission with a vague rubber isolation bushing. So noise is absorbed by the bushing, the transmission, and the transmission mount. When you change this mounting to a place near or under your seat...things tend to get loud. You hear the T/A work. Some people like it, others can't stand it.

I will generally only suggest our XTA001 to customers looking for the best on-track performance who have little concern for street use. They can be a bear on the street, but it's all relative, I guess.
- Kevin

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

It depends... do you like drinking bud light? If you do then you will be ok with the noise of the tunnel mount.

kylemm1002

iTrader: (6)

Well I was planning on just getting the tunnel mount but now I'm thinking that once I install my lowering springs ground clearance will suck! Guess I'll just save my pennies and get the full length and relo Trans cross member.

kylemm1002

iTrader: (6)

After looking at my exhaust setup I think I might try to straight tunnel mount. It's so close it's hard to tell but I'll remove the tunnel brave and run a straight edge across it to see if the straight one will work. I guess if it's real close I could always space down a some 1/4 spacers I haveayjng around right?

kylemm1002

iTrader: (6)

Well after spending a good amount of time talking to Ramey today and absorbing a ton of info I decided to get a tunnel mount 2200 with the straight tunnel brace.

My exhaust set up should clear it just fine. Im pumped to that that thing off the Trans and actually plant the rear tires!

Cape T/A

mine never makes too much noise until I hit a decent bump in the road, then I get pop/bang from it.