LCA install Question
#21
Originally Posted by BADZ
Yes, we strive to get the best rod ends for noise issues and we are happy to fine the better thick teflon lined rod ends so guy's will not have any issues with noise. We order these by 300 at a time which brings the price down and then we pass it on to the consumer...Thanks GM MUSCLE for the comment!!!
#23
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If you go with bolt ins, it will take you longer to jack the car up than it will to install them. Literaly takes 5 minutes per side. If your running QA1 shocks with bolt ins you will have to modify the the bracket alittle to clear the shock bodies (another 5 minutes per side with a Dremel). Weld ins will take alittle longer since you have to make sure they are in nice and straight before you start welding.
#24
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I have a set of BADZ's control arms too. The knurled surface makes it easy to get a grip on to adjust them. Now I need to find the properly sized bolt to fit in the front so the bushings dont float around because the bolt diameter is too small. That's why I am getting the noises I am getting.
As for the relocation brackets, I had to modify mine to fit on my 12-bolt, but they do make quite a difference. I am quite happy with them. I personally don't like the bolt-ons only because the amount of force imposed on them. I know that the weld in's are going nowhere.
As for the relocation brackets, I had to modify mine to fit on my 12-bolt, but they do make quite a difference. I am quite happy with them. I personally don't like the bolt-ons only because the amount of force imposed on them. I know that the weld in's are going nowhere.
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Surely they wouldn't sell the bolt-ins if they weren't safe right? I sure hope not. What is all the noise everyone is talking about? I haven't heard any noise out of my car yet, though I drove it home with open exhaust today.
I've still got to adjust the panhard bar and get the rearend centered.
How do I know where to adjust my BMR adjustable LCAs to?
I've still got to adjust the panhard bar and get the rearend centered.
How do I know where to adjust my BMR adjustable LCAs to?
#27
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I would say in most situations, no. But for drag-racing, I personally wouldn't feel comfortable without weld-ons. It's just preference.
In my case, I believe the noise is because the bolts are too small in diameter for the center of the heim joint. So after a bit of stress, the bolt loosens just a bit, and it gets sloppy. That the only thing I can think of.
In my case, I believe the noise is because the bolts are too small in diameter for the center of the heim joint. So after a bit of stress, the bolt loosens just a bit, and it gets sloppy. That the only thing I can think of.
#28
[QUOTE=ChevyThunder17]I would say in most situations, no. But for drag-racing, I personally wouldn't feel comfortable without weld-ons. It's just preference.
Another vote for Weld ins here...also there cheaper
Another vote for Weld ins here...also there cheaper
#30
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Do you drag race it hard? If so, I wouldn't worry about it. Like I've mentioned, it's more preference than anything.
That plus the fact that we do welding at my house. Kinda silly to NOT go with weld-ons with my Moser 12-bolt.
That plus the fact that we do welding at my house. Kinda silly to NOT go with weld-ons with my Moser 12-bolt.
#31
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i just got done installing my set of badz's lca's and phb. i did a quick spin. my loud mouth is so damn loud i didnt hear anything.! chevythunder17, i know what you mean about the bolt diameter. its just as sloppy as stock. do you have it torqued to about 70 lbs? also, make sure the rod ends are straight and true with each other. if ones twisted slightly at an angle and the other is straight or off in an opposite angle it will greatly reduce its travel before they contact the eye bushing (spacers on rod ends). thats what i noticed while installing mine. even though i thought i had the length dead nutz with stock my alignment is off a hair. i also rotated my tires though for the first time so that i guess could also be a culprit. very happy badz, thanks. how often do you recommend checking the jam nuts?
#32
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The only thing I had to do on my double Heim joint LCAs was make small "spacers" out of pipe to keep the LCA from moving around on the bolt. I used 1/4" on the inward side and 2-1/2" I believe on the outward side to move them as far in as I could (to fit the big steamroller slicks I have). I'll be making my own relocation brackets for them as well.
I may end up making a new set myself out of aluminum hex tubing & QA1 Heim joints. That way, it'll be easier to get a wrench on the arm to move the axle around.
I may end up making a new set myself out of aluminum hex tubing & QA1 Heim joints. That way, it'll be easier to get a wrench on the arm to move the axle around.