Looking for advice on future Spring/shock install.
Looking for advice on future Spring/shock install. Well since I decided to save a few bucks in May Ill now be waiting until September to get my Koni shocks 
I have BMR springs sitting in my basement and am ordering a Founders on-car adjustable panhard bar with poly bushings shortly. Since I have a few months before I see some shocks I plan on getting some Strano sway bars. My question is, is there anything I should buy that will make the install easier? New hardware ect..
Thanks in advance.
-Matt
I have BMR springs sitting in my basement and am ordering a Founders on-car adjustable panhard bar with poly bushings shortly. Since I have a few months before I see some shocks I plan on getting some Strano sway bars. My question is, is there anything I should buy that will make the install easier? New hardware ect..Thanks in advance.
-Matt
Depending on how old your strut mounts are, I'd consider getting new "dogbones" for those. They are only like $20 for the pair. If you don't know what I'm talking about you'll see when you get them apart.
Also, do not **** with the nut on top of the shock to get the strut mount off. Take it to a shop and let them deal with it.
Also, do not **** with the nut on top of the shock to get the strut mount off. Take it to a shop and let them deal with it.
You can get the moog ones on rock auto for like 5 bucks each. Moog mounts are about 50 bucks. So $110 + Shipping for mounts + isolators, not bad.
I did mine myself, but had to chop the nut off of mine because they were all rusted together. Chopped it off after compressing the spring fully, of course.
I did mine myself, but had to chop the nut off of mine because they were all rusted together. Chopped it off after compressing the spring fully, of course.
I highly recommend replacing them whenever you put new shocks on (unless they only have like 10k miles on them or something). Moog K6516 and K6517 for the mounts.
The "dogbone" isolators are a wedge-shaped piece that fit down inside the mount. They distribute the load across the mount so it doesn't tear out. Moog K6573. Looks like this:
The "dogbone" isolators are a wedge-shaped piece that fit down inside the mount. They distribute the load across the mount so it doesn't tear out. Moog K6573. Looks like this:
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Canada
Here is a list of the parts I picked up before replacing the springs/shocks:
MOOG K6516 Strut Mount Driver Side (1)
MOOG K6517 Strut Mount Passenger Side (1)
MOOG K80927 Coil Spring Seat (2)
MOOG K6573 Coil Spring Insulator (2)
More info in my post here... https://ls1tech.com/forums/16490664-post15.html
MOOG K6516 Strut Mount Driver Side (1)
MOOG K6517 Strut Mount Passenger Side (1)
MOOG K80927 Coil Spring Seat (2)
MOOG K6573 Coil Spring Insulator (2)
More info in my post here... https://ls1tech.com/forums/16490664-post15.html
Rock Auto usually. Maybe Amazon for price comparison, but last I checked overall the parts were a tad cheaper from Rock Auto. If it is only a couple bucks difference I'd prefer to support Rock Auto over Amazon as they are a much smaller company.
Here is a list of the parts I picked up before replacing the springs/shocks:
MOOG K6516 Strut Mount Driver Side (1)
MOOG K6517 Strut Mount Passenger Side (1)
MOOG K80927 Coil Spring Seat (2)
MOOG K6573 Coil Spring Insulator (2)
More info in my post here... https://ls1tech.com/forums/16490664-post15.html
MOOG K6516 Strut Mount Driver Side (1)
MOOG K6517 Strut Mount Passenger Side (1)
MOOG K80927 Coil Spring Seat (2)
MOOG K6573 Coil Spring Insulator (2)
More info in my post here... https://ls1tech.com/forums/16490664-post15.html
You may want to get some good marine-grade grease. Once you get everything assembled and ready to go on the car, take the grease and glop as much as you can into the cavity at the top of the spring/shock assembly - you'll see what I mean when it's all apart, where the "dogbone" bit sits. It'll help keep water and dirt out of that pocket, so if you decide to change shocks or springs in the future, there's much less chance of the shock rod and nut being rusted up.
I dont know why everyone is talking about rusty stock components - he has new springs, shocks, and upper mounts. Just have them assembled (or rent a compressor and do it yourself) and once theyre ready, its ~30min per side to swap out. Both rear springs and shocks can be done in about 30min as well. Putting the front assemblies together takes the most time
I dont know why everyone is talking about rusty stock components - he has new springs, shocks, and upper mounts. Just have them assembled (or rent a compressor and do it yourself) and once theyre ready, its ~30min per side to swap out. Both rear springs and shocks can be done in about 30min as well. Putting the front assemblies together takes the most time
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 291
Likes: 2
From: Richmond, ON, Canada
i had the rust issue...soaked them in PB for a couple of days...ended up breaking the bolts...the isolators were still in good shape shockingly so i couldn't take extreme measure...
i used a dremel to cut the bolt off at the lowest point possible then gradually drilled the bolt out by small holes and then expanding using bigger bits...a few bits, 4 hours, and several sessions of recycled frustration, the job was done...
new best friend=copper anti-seize <---apply it if you would like to maintain your mental health.
i used a dremel to cut the bolt off at the lowest point possible then gradually drilled the bolt out by small holes and then expanding using bigger bits...a few bits, 4 hours, and several sessions of recycled frustration, the job was done...
new best friend=copper anti-seize <---apply it if you would like to maintain your mental health.
