Vibration at 60mph +
I think these cars will always have some vibration somewhere. My old 98 had vibration in the front that I never figured out for example, and around the same speeds as you. It would cause the passenger seat back to shake and rattle.
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From: Las Vegas, from Crystal Lake IL
so i take back stating the pinion angle is at -2 / -2.5 degrees.
I had a reputable 4x4, performance driveshaft shop, swap out my ujoints and set the pinion angle. I told them I was running -2.5 just fine.
(I did not have the time to swap the ujoints myself)
I just checked (see pics)
pinion looks like 0 or -1 parallel or pointing down toward the engine.
also I took a shot of the angle on the crank pulley, only steel magnetic piece to measure off of. looks to be 87-88 degrees from 90. meaning 2-3 degrees pointing down toward the rearend.
so with that being said the -2.5 degree pinion angle I originally had would be correct?!?!?! And this shop messed up correct?!?!?!?
I had a reputable 4x4, performance driveshaft shop, swap out my ujoints and set the pinion angle. I told them I was running -2.5 just fine.
(I did not have the time to swap the ujoints myself)
I just checked (see pics)
pinion looks like 0 or -1 parallel or pointing down toward the engine.
also I took a shot of the angle on the crank pulley, only steel magnetic piece to measure off of. looks to be 87-88 degrees from 90. meaning 2-3 degrees pointing down toward the rearend.
so with that being said the -2.5 degree pinion angle I originally had would be correct?!?!?! And this shop messed up correct?!?!?!?
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 96
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From: Michigan
What worked best for me was making the rear pinion yoke parallel to the output shaft of the trans. I have no more vibration now and it only took me 2 years to figure that out. The negative 2 that everyone talks about is for drag racing only and the negative 2 should be 2 degrees down from parallel of the trans.
What worked best for me was making the rear pinion yoke parallel to the output shaft of the trans. I have no more vibration now and it only took me 2 years to figure that out. The negative 2 that everyone talks about is for drag racing only and the negative 2 should be 2 degrees down from parallel of the trans.
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From: Las Vegas, from Crystal Lake IL
my car is mostly racing or cruise nights, not a DD. hence the -2.
I might try 0.
however right now. I believe i solved this vibration issue...
ROTORS..... rotors can cause shake while driving, not just braking. pending if they are debris imprinted, warped, etc.. My rotors will be resurfaced tomorrow, so buy thursday I will be testing the car again!
I might try 0.
however right now. I believe i solved this vibration issue...
ROTORS..... rotors can cause shake while driving, not just braking. pending if they are debris imprinted, warped, etc.. My rotors will be resurfaced tomorrow, so buy thursday I will be testing the car again!
Only real way to tell for flat spots on tires is a tire place that has a newer machine. It will show the true surface of the tire and will show flat spots.
Take the difference between the DS angle and the rear housing angle. That's how I set mine up per BMR's spec when I got the TQ arm back in 04.
so i take back stating the pinion angle is at -2 / -2.5 degrees.
I had a reputable 4x4, performance driveshaft shop, swap out my ujoints and set the pinion angle. I told them I was running -2.5 just fine.
(I did not have the time to swap the ujoints myself)
I just checked (see pics)
pinion looks like 0 or -1 parallel or pointing down toward the engine.
also I took a shot of the angle on the crank pulley, only steel magnetic piece to measure off of. looks to be 87-88 degrees from 90. meaning 2-3 degrees pointing down toward the rearend.
so with that being said the -2.5 degree pinion angle I originally had would be correct?!?!?! And this shop messed up correct?!?!?!?
I had a reputable 4x4, performance driveshaft shop, swap out my ujoints and set the pinion angle. I told them I was running -2.5 just fine.
(I did not have the time to swap the ujoints myself)
I just checked (see pics)
pinion looks like 0 or -1 parallel or pointing down toward the engine.
also I took a shot of the angle on the crank pulley, only steel magnetic piece to measure off of. looks to be 87-88 degrees from 90. meaning 2-3 degrees pointing down toward the rearend.
so with that being said the -2.5 degree pinion angle I originally had would be correct?!?!?! And this shop messed up correct?!?!?!?
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From: Las Vegas, from Crystal Lake IL
rotors are cut, parallelism with the brakes is good, and the car still shakes.
when I was putting the rotors back on my car I found a wheel balancing weight on the garage floor. I took the car to discount tire today, told them I just had the front wheels re-balanced and the rear wheels are new. I asked them to re-balance all four.
This time it was a different tech re-balancing. He tells me and shows me, that I have a bent wheel. My drivers side front wheel has a slight bend in the barrel. Not sure how, never hit a curb or pot hole or speed bump fast.
The wheels are American Racing TT2 M black, with a lifetime structure warranty, since there is no sign of damage, hopefully they replace the wheel. This better be the cause of the vibration.
The bend in the wheel was so minor, you had spin the wheel on the balancer, hold a straight edge to the barrel to see the distance offset.
Now if only the first tech would have noticed the wheel being bent. would have saved some time.
when I was putting the rotors back on my car I found a wheel balancing weight on the garage floor. I took the car to discount tire today, told them I just had the front wheels re-balanced and the rear wheels are new. I asked them to re-balance all four.
This time it was a different tech re-balancing. He tells me and shows me, that I have a bent wheel. My drivers side front wheel has a slight bend in the barrel. Not sure how, never hit a curb or pot hole or speed bump fast.
The wheels are American Racing TT2 M black, with a lifetime structure warranty, since there is no sign of damage, hopefully they replace the wheel. This better be the cause of the vibration.
The bend in the wheel was so minor, you had spin the wheel on the balancer, hold a straight edge to the barrel to see the distance offset.
Now if only the first tech would have noticed the wheel being bent. would have saved some time.
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Only real way to tell for flat spots on tires is a tire place that has a newer machine. It will show the true surface of the tire and will show flat spots.
Take the difference between the DS angle and the rear housing angle. That's how I set mine up per BMR's spec when I got the TQ arm back in 04.
Take the difference between the DS angle and the rear housing angle. That's how I set mine up per BMR's spec when I got the TQ arm back in 04.
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From: Las Vegas, from Crystal Lake IL
Tonight I am double checking the wheel for a bend.
The odd part is,
The steering wheel does not vibrate
The shifter does not vibrate
Those two things make me think the front wheels are fine, and the transmount/engine mounts are fine also.
Since the center console and seats vibrate like they are coming a part.
Makes me think its a rear tire/wheel or which i doubt something is wrong with the Strange S60 rearend.
Hayden lives closer so I might borrow his four wheels. Plus they are not mounted on his car. I would feel bad stripping the wheels from your car.!!
Thanks for the offer!!
Possible bent axle? Even tho it's a Dana..... Put it up on jack stands and let it roll in first (or have a friend look) or set up the GoPro camera.. 
Or point the camera at the DS also. I've been wanting to stick my GoPro underneath my car so I can see what the suspension looks like when it's working. (or not working... Thanks Eibach! *bang*)
Or point the camera at the DS also. I've been wanting to stick my GoPro underneath my car so I can see what the suspension looks like when it's working. (or not working... Thanks Eibach! *bang*) Thread Starter
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after thoroughly going through the wheels and tires on a hunter roadmaster balancer today at discount tire. I'm confident to say, wheels and tires are fine.
Bayer-z28 -
you might be right, bent axle or something rearend related.
reason being is, after discount tire I decide, screw it, no more playing it safe trying to figure it out at low speeds (75mph or slower) I took the car up to 115/120 mph.
the noise and vibration did get worse as expected, but two new variables appeared:
-clunk,clunk, clunk, clunk noise from the rearend area
-noise and vibration goes away when i tap the brakes
-noise and vibration still there, when I press the clutch or drop the t56 into the neutral gate.
at 75mph hitting the brakes I never noticed the vibration or noise go away, because the car slowed down to fast, but tapping the brakes or even holding them to slow down from 120mph most of the vibration and noise associated with it went away.
Once I released the brakes and still above 100mph, the sounds and noise returned.
time to contact strange and dig through the rearend.
Bayer-z28 -
you might be right, bent axle or something rearend related.
reason being is, after discount tire I decide, screw it, no more playing it safe trying to figure it out at low speeds (75mph or slower) I took the car up to 115/120 mph.
the noise and vibration did get worse as expected, but two new variables appeared:
-clunk,clunk, clunk, clunk noise from the rearend area
-noise and vibration goes away when i tap the brakes
-noise and vibration still there, when I press the clutch or drop the t56 into the neutral gate.
at 75mph hitting the brakes I never noticed the vibration or noise go away, because the car slowed down to fast, but tapping the brakes or even holding them to slow down from 120mph most of the vibration and noise associated with it went away.
Once I released the brakes and still above 100mph, the sounds and noise returned.
time to contact strange and dig through the rearend.
Thread Starter
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From: Las Vegas, from Crystal Lake IL
Still waiting to hear back from Strange before I dig into the rearend.
a part had to be faulty. A LSx engine making around 500hp at the crank should never hurt a S60, even with the 7K rpm clutch dumps that I have done.
Since braking alleviates the vibration, 'm thinking wheel bearings or C-clip elimator.. who knows!! LOL
TECH Resident
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: North Las Vegas, NV
thanks dude.
Still waiting to hear back from Strange before I dig into the rearend.
a part had to be faulty. A LSx engine making around 500hp at the crank should never hurt a S60, even with the 7K rpm clutch dumps that I have done.
Since braking alleviates the vibration, 'm thinking wheel bearings or C-clip elimator.. who knows!! LOL
Still waiting to hear back from Strange before I dig into the rearend.
a part had to be faulty. A LSx engine making around 500hp at the crank should never hurt a S60, even with the 7K rpm clutch dumps that I have done.
Since braking alleviates the vibration, 'm thinking wheel bearings or C-clip elimator.. who knows!! LOL
Did the rear end come complete (ie...you swap it with your 10 bolt then add your brakes, a new yoke on the drive shaft and install it in your car?)
after thoroughly going through the wheels and tires on a hunter roadmaster balancer today at discount tire. I'm confident to say, wheels and tires are fine.
Bayer-z28 -
you might be right, bent axle or something rearend related.
reason being is, after discount tire I decide, screw it, no more playing it safe trying to figure it out at low speeds (75mph or slower) I took the car up to 115/120 mph.
the noise and vibration did get worse as expected, but two new variables appeared:
-clunk,clunk, clunk, clunk noise from the rearend area
-noise and vibration goes away when i tap the brakes
-noise and vibration still there, when I press the clutch or drop the t56 into the neutral gate.
at 75mph hitting the brakes I never noticed the vibration or noise go away, because the car slowed down to fast, but tapping the brakes or even holding them to slow down from 120mph most of the vibration and noise associated with it went away.
Once I released the brakes and still above 100mph, the sounds and noise returned.
time to contact strange and dig through the rearend.
Bayer-z28 -
you might be right, bent axle or something rearend related.
reason being is, after discount tire I decide, screw it, no more playing it safe trying to figure it out at low speeds (75mph or slower) I took the car up to 115/120 mph.
the noise and vibration did get worse as expected, but two new variables appeared:
-clunk,clunk, clunk, clunk noise from the rearend area
-noise and vibration goes away when i tap the brakes
-noise and vibration still there, when I press the clutch or drop the t56 into the neutral gate.
at 75mph hitting the brakes I never noticed the vibration or noise go away, because the car slowed down to fast, but tapping the brakes or even holding them to slow down from 120mph most of the vibration and noise associated with it went away.
Once I released the brakes and still above 100mph, the sounds and noise returned.
time to contact strange and dig through the rearend.
I was thinking bent axle originally, but what are the odds on a built Dana rear?
Last edited by bayer-z28; Aug 29, 2012 at 08:17 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Las Vegas, from Crystal Lake IL
it was a plug and play set up.
Literally everything was set up by strange and speed inc. Full with fluid too.
All I had to do was remove the 10 bolt, install the S60, adjust pinion angle and done. DS is a speed inc chromoly.
I removed the passenger side axle and pumpkin cover:
-axle is straight
-wheel bearings are perfect
-ring and pinion look new
-no metal shaving or flakes anywhere
-ring and pinion backlash w/in spec
Thursday night I will remove the driver side axle, inspect,
if all is good I will re-install and go back to trying a few different settings on the pinion angle...
Launching!
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 209
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From: NC
It is worth mentioning that a wheel and tire balance does not check for wheel tracking - if your wheel is bent but balanced the machine will pass it, but you will have vibration. When balancing the wheel you have to verify the tire tread tracks true - if the tire track is not true the wheel itself is bent but the tire will be balanced on the machine just fine.