awesome info from LG about G-stop kit (sarcasm)
#1
awesome info from LG about G-stop kit (sarcasm)
i'm going to pocono for drivers education at the end of april. i was thinking of getting the G-stop kit which allows me to use the c5 bigger rotors. I've read good stuff about it on this site. so i just called (10:45am EST today) and the guy on the phone tells me:
-$1499 with c5 calipers and rotors
-$1299 with c5 calipers and NO rotors
that was way more than i thought since i've seen GP's for like $500-$800 depending on if you get calipers or not. So i asked how much without calipers since i was planning on using my stock calipers. the rep says I need c5 calipers. I said "no, the f-body calipers will work and they are intechangeable with c5 calipers". the rep said "no they are not. I am 120% sure they are different". I said "no, they are the same". so the rep said "good luck with that" and hung up. NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! am I crazy?
-$1499 with c5 calipers and rotors
-$1299 with c5 calipers and NO rotors
that was way more than i thought since i've seen GP's for like $500-$800 depending on if you get calipers or not. So i asked how much without calipers since i was planning on using my stock calipers. the rep says I need c5 calipers. I said "no, the f-body calipers will work and they are intechangeable with c5 calipers". the rep said "no they are not. I am 120% sure they are different". I said "no, they are the same". so the rep said "good luck with that" and hung up. NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! am I crazy?
Last edited by 2MCHPWR; 04-07-2004 at 01:01 PM.
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Originally Posted by 2MCHPWR
i'm going to pocono for drivers education at the end of april. i was thinking of getting the G-stop kit which allows me to use the c5 bigger rotors. I've read good stuff about it on this site. so i just called (10:45am EST today) and the guy on the phone tells me:
-$1499 with c5 calibers and rotors
-$1299 with c5 calibers and NO rotors
that was way more than i thought since i've seen GP's for like $500-$800 depending on if you get calibers or not. So i asked how much without calibers since i was planning on using my stock calibers. the rep says I need c5 calibers. I said "no, the f-body calibers will work and they are intechangeable with c5 calibers". the rep said "no they are not. I am 120% sure they are different". I said "no, they are the same". so the rep said "good luck with that" and hung up. NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! am I crazy?
-$1499 with c5 calibers and rotors
-$1299 with c5 calibers and NO rotors
that was way more than i thought since i've seen GP's for like $500-$800 depending on if you get calibers or not. So i asked how much without calibers since i was planning on using my stock calibers. the rep says I need c5 calibers. I said "no, the f-body calibers will work and they are intechangeable with c5 calibers". the rep said "no they are not. I am 120% sure they are different". I said "no, they are the same". so the rep said "good luck with that" and hung up. NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! am I crazy?
There you go, sarcasm for sarcasm.
For what it's worth, I was told last month (after the guy answering the phone asked 3 people) $325 for the brackets that would allow me to use C5 rotors and either style caliPers. You can get a set of used C5 caliPers on eBay for like $125-150 for all 4, and rotors for around the same. Check the other thread here, for interchange fo C5 and F-Body caliPers. They fit no problem.
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Originally Posted by sross
I tried contacting them (phone message and e-mail) about the same package and never got a reply. They don't deserve my business. I ended up going with eradispeeds...
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Originally Posted by sross
I tried contacting them (phone message and e-mail) about the same package and never got a reply. They don't deserve my business. I ended up going with eradispeeds...
Eradispeeds....here we go again.....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/150312-how-can-i-install-larger-rotors-my-02-ws6.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/154546-advice-rotors-pads.html
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#8
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Originally Posted by trackbird
Eradispeeds....here we go again.....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150312
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154546
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150312
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154546
Summary: LG Motorsports customer service sucks and there IS a market for Eradispeeds (but they are not for everyone).
-------------------
99 SS, heads, cam, NOS (10 sec, 3600 lb race weight)
#9
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Originally Posted by sross
If you can lock up the tires with your current brakes (with ABS disabled of course), nothing is going to help except tires with more bite. If you autocross/road race/etc, that's when the upgrades help. I only race at the dragstrip. One time hard on the brakes then I let it cool off.
Summary: LG Motorsports customer service sucks and there IS a market for Eradispeeds (but they are not for everyone).
Summary: LG Motorsports customer service sucks and there IS a market for Eradispeeds (but they are not for everyone).
I've heard the "lock up the tires" arguement. I'm guessing you can't lock up the tires at 120+ mph. That is the difference between performance pads on otherwise stock brakes or an upgraded package. Or, being able to achieve "threshold braking" at 120+ mph on the 3rd stop from that speed in a row. I would be willing to bet that I, with stock replacement rotors and performance pads will still stop from the same trap speed at the end of the 1/4 mile before you will, even on the first stop. But, we are splitting hairs at this point.
People do seem to like pretty rotors.....
Have fun!
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Originally Posted by 2MCHPWR
i'm going to pocono for drivers education at the end of april. i was thinking of getting the G-stop kit which allows me to use the c5 bigger rotors. I've read good stuff about it on this site. so i just called (10:45am EST today) and the guy on the phone tells me:
-$1499 with c5 calipers and rotors
-$1299 with c5 calipers and NO rotors
that was way more than i thought since i've seen GP's for like $500-$800 depending on if you get calipers or not. So i asked how much without calipers since i was planning on using my stock calipers. the rep says I need c5 calipers. I said "no, the f-body calipers will work and they are intechangeable with c5 calipers". the rep said "no they are not. I am 120% sure they are different". I said "no, they are the same". so the rep said "good luck with that" and hung up. NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! am I crazy?
-$1499 with c5 calipers and rotors
-$1299 with c5 calipers and NO rotors
that was way more than i thought since i've seen GP's for like $500-$800 depending on if you get calipers or not. So i asked how much without calipers since i was planning on using my stock calipers. the rep says I need c5 calipers. I said "no, the f-body calipers will work and they are intechangeable with c5 calipers". the rep said "no they are not. I am 120% sure they are different". I said "no, they are the same". so the rep said "good luck with that" and hung up. NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! am I crazy?
#11
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I will only deal with Lou or Louis, the guys on the phones haven't been able to answer questions or it is the wrong information. I bough a set of the G-stop from him for $650 (brackets,bolts, rotors, lines) Really like the set up butI went through LOU personally. maybe someday they'll get some decent help in there!
#12
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Originally Posted by sross
I've warped several stock and aftermarket rotors. Baer offers a guarranty against warping. That's why I got them (that and they also look nice).
CD/S rotors offer zero in stopping performance. All they do is wear out the pads faster. The by-product is brake dust.
After stopping hard 2 or 3 times, look at the holes in your drilled rotors. They will be caked with brake dust. Explain how all that cooling is so effective with the holes plugged up? And just where is all this cooling air coming from? Travelling 50mph, it takes a helluva a cross wind to get any air across the rotors, compounded by the windmill of a 5 spoke rim.
You are right ... some folks put a lot of importance on looking good. And when folks like Kevin or myself call BS on the performance side of it, usually those fragile egos take a hit.
If that is your bag, then by all means go for it. I respect your needs. But don't proclaim a performance gain to those who are attempting to educate themselves. Be honest with those around you and yourself.
Back on topic ... from another thread ...
I'm not gonna make excuses for Lou or LGM. They definitely need to step up their customer service and get their damn website updated.
I will say this, though.
The last couple of folks that worked for Lou and Lou trusted with his business, worked their long enough to learn who the suppliers are and how to run a performance oriented shop. They then opened their own place, an LGM competitor. So, Lou is rather gun shy right now at letting his reps do some dealing.
I hate to see his business take the beating it is taking right now. But those competitors are loving it ...
I will say this, though.
The last couple of folks that worked for Lou and Lou trusted with his business, worked their long enough to learn who the suppliers are and how to run a performance oriented shop. They then opened their own place, an LGM competitor. So, Lou is rather gun shy right now at letting his reps do some dealing.
I hate to see his business take the beating it is taking right now. But those competitors are loving it ...
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
Good luck collecting on that warranty ...
CD/S rotors offer zero in stopping performance. All they do is wear out the pads faster. The by-product is brake dust.
After stopping hard 2 or 3 times, look at the holes in your drilled rotors. They will be caked with brake dust. Explain how all that cooling is so effective with the holes plugged up? And just where is all this cooling air coming from? Travelling 50mph, it takes a helluva a cross wind to get any air across the rotors, compounded by the windmill of a 5 spoke rim.
You are right ... some folks put a lot of importance on looking good. And when folks like Kevin or myself call BS on the performance side of it, usually those fragile egos take a hit.
If that is your bag, then by all means go for it. I respect your needs. But don't proclaim a performance gain to those who are attempting to educate themselves. Be honest with those around you and yourself.
Back on topic ... from another thread ...
CD/S rotors offer zero in stopping performance. All they do is wear out the pads faster. The by-product is brake dust.
After stopping hard 2 or 3 times, look at the holes in your drilled rotors. They will be caked with brake dust. Explain how all that cooling is so effective with the holes plugged up? And just where is all this cooling air coming from? Travelling 50mph, it takes a helluva a cross wind to get any air across the rotors, compounded by the windmill of a 5 spoke rim.
You are right ... some folks put a lot of importance on looking good. And when folks like Kevin or myself call BS on the performance side of it, usually those fragile egos take a hit.
If that is your bag, then by all means go for it. I respect your needs. But don't proclaim a performance gain to those who are attempting to educate themselves. Be honest with those around you and yourself.
Back on topic ... from another thread ...
As far a a performance improvement, I never claimed they'd provide one. Like I said, I don't think any brake upgrade helps stopping performance for a single hard stop (assuming your current brakes can lock up the tires). Maybe for autocross/road racing, but not one stop on the dragstrip. Better tires is the best thing you can do for that.
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
And I hope you don't have to.
And the implication was Eradispeeds were the next best thing in your opinion.
And the implication was Eradispeeds were the next best thing in your opinion.
We've probably both heard the arguements about "heavier rotors running cooler", "modern pads don't release as much gas so they don't need to holes", etc but do these things really apply to a street-driven car? Heavier is only good to a certain point, and try comparing a cross-drilled with a plain rotor in the rain. See if you still don't like the holes.
Anyway, I get the impression that you're REALLY making a big effort not to like the Eradispeeds. If you have issues for a reason, why don't you provide this guy some enlightenment? It's too late for me but if you really have a good reason not to like them, let's get it out in the open before he makes a purchase. That's what this thread is supposed to be about, right?
Sorry for the attitude, I felt like I was being attacked for getting the Eradispeeds. In my original post I had no intention of trying to push them on anyone. I guess I really wanted to warn this guy what he was getting into (as far as customer service goes), and let LG know where his business is going.
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Autozone rotors outlasted ANYTHING I put on my car ... OEM, KVR, PSlot, Pstop, iRotor ... EVERYTHING, when I had stock type brakes. And a dozen Autozone rotors can be bought for what a single pair of E-Speeds cost. And BAER even states that using them in competition voids the warranty. So what's the point?
As far as CD/S rotors and their magic powers, all you've done is lemming onto all those manufacturers. Just because they do it, it must be good? Gimme some reason WHY they are superior. I've given my reasoning behind why they aren't.
You weren't attacked, rather your ego took a hit for buying driveway jewelry. There is another forum on here called Appearance and Detailing which would better fit your posting needs. This section, Handling and Braking, is more performance oriented. You simply posted in the wrong forum. Common mistake.
For the record, I went from OEM LS1 F-Body brakes to C5 to 4 piston Brembo with 13.5" Porsche rotors. The rotors are CD rotors ... but that is the only way they come. After a couple of hours of driving, the holes plug with brake pad dust. So, I ask again ... what's the point?
As far as CD/S rotors and their magic powers, all you've done is lemming onto all those manufacturers. Just because they do it, it must be good? Gimme some reason WHY they are superior. I've given my reasoning behind why they aren't.
You weren't attacked, rather your ego took a hit for buying driveway jewelry. There is another forum on here called Appearance and Detailing which would better fit your posting needs. This section, Handling and Braking, is more performance oriented. You simply posted in the wrong forum. Common mistake.
For the record, I went from OEM LS1 F-Body brakes to C5 to 4 piston Brembo with 13.5" Porsche rotors. The rotors are CD rotors ... but that is the only way they come. After a couple of hours of driving, the holes plug with brake pad dust. So, I ask again ... what's the point?
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http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...+Drilled+Rotor
You'll notice that the Tire Rack suggests this info for Brembo cross drilled rotors:
"NOTE: Brembo Sport drilled brake rotors are not recommended by The Tire Rack for track use or intended to be used in conjunction with race compound brake pads on the street. For severe duty brake demands see Brembo Sport slotted brake rotors."
Or:
http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part2.html
Or:
http://www.rennsportsystems.com/1-sf.html
"Some of these rotors are drilled however, so please remember that all cross-drilled rotors can develop cracks, sooner or later. "
http://www.rennsportsystems.com/2c.html
"Porsche used cross-drilled rotors with mixed success. The Zimmerman rotors used on the 930 Turbo brakes were very soft and crack prone, even though the holes were chamfered. The later Brembo rotors will also show some wear when used with most performance brake pads. Some of the best rotors in the world are made in Britain by AP and Alcon. Those rotors, when properly adapted, seem to be superior to the Brembo ones in terms of wear and crack resistance. All drilled rotors will crack sooner or later if overheated. Slotted rotors are more durable in this regard however they are heavier. One reason that most large iron rotors are cross-drilled is to save some unsprung weight. Since nice big, light, carbon rotors cost $1000 each, saving some weight without bankruptcy, is important. Plus, carbon rotors possess very little friction until they reach 500-600 degrees F."
Anyway....This is why I (as well as Mitch and many others) are not fans of Eradispeeds. These are Porsche rotors in the last example and I suspect that Baer knows no magic alloy to "save the world". Also, the fact that Baer charges insane prices for their products simply adds insult to injury. I find it reprehensible that Baer (who used to recommend against cross drilled rotors, until they began magically to sell them) can ask nearly $800 for 4 rotors, it is embarrassing and insulting.
It was never meant to be an attack on you, but as stated, the equality of the eradispeeds and the LG kit was implied. Just trying to clarify.
As always.....
My thoughts....
You'll notice that the Tire Rack suggests this info for Brembo cross drilled rotors:
"NOTE: Brembo Sport drilled brake rotors are not recommended by The Tire Rack for track use or intended to be used in conjunction with race compound brake pads on the street. For severe duty brake demands see Brembo Sport slotted brake rotors."
Or:
http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part2.html
Or:
http://www.rennsportsystems.com/1-sf.html
"Some of these rotors are drilled however, so please remember that all cross-drilled rotors can develop cracks, sooner or later. "
http://www.rennsportsystems.com/2c.html
"Porsche used cross-drilled rotors with mixed success. The Zimmerman rotors used on the 930 Turbo brakes were very soft and crack prone, even though the holes were chamfered. The later Brembo rotors will also show some wear when used with most performance brake pads. Some of the best rotors in the world are made in Britain by AP and Alcon. Those rotors, when properly adapted, seem to be superior to the Brembo ones in terms of wear and crack resistance. All drilled rotors will crack sooner or later if overheated. Slotted rotors are more durable in this regard however they are heavier. One reason that most large iron rotors are cross-drilled is to save some unsprung weight. Since nice big, light, carbon rotors cost $1000 each, saving some weight without bankruptcy, is important. Plus, carbon rotors possess very little friction until they reach 500-600 degrees F."
Anyway....This is why I (as well as Mitch and many others) are not fans of Eradispeeds. These are Porsche rotors in the last example and I suspect that Baer knows no magic alloy to "save the world". Also, the fact that Baer charges insane prices for their products simply adds insult to injury. I find it reprehensible that Baer (who used to recommend against cross drilled rotors, until they began magically to sell them) can ask nearly $800 for 4 rotors, it is embarrassing and insulting.
It was never meant to be an attack on you, but as stated, the equality of the eradispeeds and the LG kit was implied. Just trying to clarify.
As always.....
My thoughts....
#19
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I can say that the Eradispeeds are JUNK!! I went out and bought a set thinking that all my problems would be solved. in 8 months the rotors where cracked(at the CD holes) to the point that they where junk. They lasted a total of 12,000miles(autobahn speeds of 115mph+) & 10 auto-x events. When I called Baer they told me there was nothing they could do for me except sell me new rotor blanks and the tool to change them for $137. That is when I stepped up to the LG kit. I understand the problems that Lou is having with his reps but the products where and are worth the time and effort to make contact with Lou or Louis. The LG brakes have 10,000 and 6 auto-x events with no signs of adverse wear and have performed flawlessly. This is just my personal expierence with both the Eradispeeds and LGM.