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How much neg. camber do you think this is?

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Old 09-18-2012, 01:49 AM
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Default How much neg. camber do you think this is?

I am trying to decide if I am going to keep 17x11's on all 4 corners and if I can get my car to look exactly like this one (I mean only fender gap/wheels tucking and camber etc). Is this look achievable with strano bushing's or would I need global west upper control arms for this much negative camber?
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:35 AM
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-2.0 to -2.5 is what it looks like which is aggressive for that size..

I'm running -3.0 on 17x9.5 and i have GW upper control arms...the arms are good, the joints they came with are not...
Old 09-21-2012, 04:25 PM
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That looks like straight-up (0) to me, on the blue car.
Certainly way less than I see on mine, which is set at
about -1 degree. Maybe it's the angle of view. But I
have all stock arms / bushings and just a K-member
with a more aggressive looking camber achieved.
Old 09-21-2012, 11:51 PM
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That car belongs to JonA over on Frrax. He doesn't post much anymore but, do a search and you should find plenty of info...if you haven't done that already.
Old 09-22-2012, 02:11 PM
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Looks like 0 to me too.
Old 09-24-2012, 03:59 PM
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Visually, it's hard to determine camber, but it is very close to what I see on my GTO - which has -2 degrees. So I would say this car is in that neighborhood +/- .5 degrees. I agree, it may be too much for that size tire, which you wont know until you hit the track and get tire temp readings across the tire face to see how its set up. I'm on dinky-*** 245 NT01 Nittos and they heat nearly even at -2. These may heat up too much inside.

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Old 09-25-2012, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Robbie Wilson
I am trying to decide if I am going to keep 17x11's on all 4 corners and if I can get my car to look exactly like this one (I mean only fender gap/wheels tucking and camber etc). Is this look achievable with strano bushing's or would I need global west upper control arms for this much negative camber?
You guys think that's zero huh? No way and that should be plainly obvious by just comparing to the rear (unless you think the rear is positive or something crazy like that).

That's a good -2, might be more. You want that for a look??? There is a performance reason for it, if it's a street only car I'd not recommend that much.
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:26 PM
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No way that's zero. I agree with Sam... -2 or more.
Old 09-26-2012, 04:29 PM
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I think since the tires are so wide it's giving an illusion that the camber isn't as negative as it really is.
Old 09-26-2012, 06:20 PM
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around -2.5 in my sig pic... currently sitting at -.5
Old 09-26-2012, 06:22 PM
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oh, and street driving with such a camber, I successfully chewed through the inner edge of both tires, down to the belts, in less than 2mos. A $350 mistake I dont care to repeat...
Old 09-30-2012, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by VinR1
oh, and street driving with such a camber, I successfully chewed through the inner edge of both tires, down to the belts, in less than 2mos. A $350 mistake I dont care to repeat...
yea i've done that before...expensive mistake. however, the reason i chewed through the inside of my front tires was because i incorrectly set toe (too much toe out). so it created "dragging" conditions...2 months later, the belts showed...

i run -3...not ideal for street and yes the inside wears more quickly. with my current camber setting, I'm on pace to get 2 summers out of them and I will have to get them flipped. i autox weekly and track the car as well as drive it on the street. with camber set at -3, special attention must be paid to the toe setting...if toe is set incorrectly it will def. accelerate tire wear.
Old 09-30-2012, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by brigade24
with camber set at -3, special attention must be paid to the toe setting...if toe is set incorrectly it will def. accelerate tire wear.
Agree 100%. Before my last alignment, I was -2 on the camber, but my toe was a good 1/4" (!) out and ruined the insides of my tires.
Old 10-22-2012, 05:22 PM
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Thanks for the info. I was thinking around -2 but I just wanted a refernce to be sure. I have 17 x 11's all around and was just wondering how much negative camber to run.
Old 10-23-2012, 10:05 AM
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To figure out how much negative camber to run, you'll need to go to the track and drive the car hard. After a few laps you should take tire temperature readings from the outside, middle, and inside surfaces of the tire. The temperature differences will tell you what part of the tire is actually contacting the road during cornering. You'll probably find the outside to run hotter than the inside - an indication you'll need more negative camber. Once you have your readings and have made you camber changes you'll find that tire temperatures are more evenly distributed.

That's how you correctly do it. I wouldn't set camber based on the look. An 11-inch wide tire probably wont want anything too extreme.

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Old 10-23-2012, 11:25 AM
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Is the picture you posted of your car? If so, you want just about -2, it's not too extreme here (again if that's your car) because it looks to me like you are either autocrossing or tracking the car. And it looks like you are on Hoosiers too.

I *would* agree that -2 is too much for a pure street car, but from what I see that's not what I'm getting from the picture, so I don't agree that less is more here.
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Is the picture you posted of your car? If so, you want just about -2, it's not too extreme here (again if that's your car) because it looks to me like you are either autocrossing or tracking the car. And it looks like you are on Hoosiers too.

I *would* agree that -2 is too much for a pure street car, but from what I see that's not what I'm getting from the picture, so I don't agree that less is more here.
It's not my car but I have the exact same wheel/tire set up, 17 x 11's on hoosier a6's.
Old 10-24-2012, 10:42 AM
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Clearly you are then autocrossing it, right?
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:57 PM
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Camber -1.5
Castor 4.5
Toe out 1/32

Seems to be the compromise between street and track for alignments on these cars.


My cars current setup with stock bushing are
Camber -.8
Castor 4.3
toe out 1/32


I have raced 15 events with this setup on 315-35-17 NT05s car feels pretty good. Most likely be buying GW A arms over the winter and run some where around -1.6 +-.1 camber.
Old 10-25-2012, 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Clearly you are then autocrossing it, right?
yep. Every so often. I don't have the time to go every month right now because of school.

Originally Posted by camarokid91
Camber -1.5
Castor 4.5
Toe out 1/32

Seems to be the compromise between street and track for alignments on these cars.


My cars current setup with stock bushing are
Camber -.8
Castor 4.3
toe out 1/32


I have raced 15 events with this setup on 315-35-17 NT05s car feels pretty good. Most likely be buying GW A arms over the winter and run some where around -1.6 +-.1 camber.
Thanks! How much is your car lowerd to get -0.8 on the camber? And I think I will keep toe at 0 so I don't waste rubber going down the freeway lol.

Originally Posted by BMR Tech2
To figure out how much negative camber to run, you'll need to go to the track and drive the car hard. After a few laps you should take tire temperature readings from the outside, middle, and inside surfaces of the tire. The temperature differences will tell you what part of the tire is actually contacting the road during cornering. You'll probably find the outside to run hotter than the inside - an indication you'll need more negative camber. Once you have your readings and have made you camber changes you'll find that tire temperatures are more evenly distributed.

That's how you correctly do it. I wouldn't set camber based on the look. An 11-inch wide tire probably wont want anything too extreme.

- Kevin
Thanks for the info. I am not sure about whats considered extreme as that is a little subjective. At the same time I have never checked tire temps. I always thought chalk on the sidewall was a good indicator.


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