How much neg. camber do you think this is?
#1
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How much neg. camber do you think this is?
I am trying to decide if I am going to keep 17x11's on all 4 corners and if I can get my car to look exactly like this one (I mean only fender gap/wheels tucking and camber etc). Is this look achievable with strano bushing's or would I need global west upper control arms for this much negative camber?
#2
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-2.0 to -2.5 is what it looks like which is aggressive for that size..
I'm running -3.0 on 17x9.5 and i have GW upper control arms...the arms are good, the joints they came with are not...
I'm running -3.0 on 17x9.5 and i have GW upper control arms...the arms are good, the joints they came with are not...
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That looks like straight-up (0) to me, on the blue car.
Certainly way less than I see on mine, which is set at
about -1 degree. Maybe it's the angle of view. But I
have all stock arms / bushings and just a K-member
with a more aggressive looking camber achieved.
Certainly way less than I see on mine, which is set at
about -1 degree. Maybe it's the angle of view. But I
have all stock arms / bushings and just a K-member
with a more aggressive looking camber achieved.
#6
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Visually, it's hard to determine camber, but it is very close to what I see on my GTO - which has -2 degrees. So I would say this car is in that neighborhood +/- .5 degrees. I agree, it may be too much for that size tire, which you wont know until you hit the track and get tire temp readings across the tire face to see how its set up. I'm on dinky-*** 245 NT01 Nittos and they heat nearly even at -2. These may heat up too much inside.
- Kevin
- Kevin
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I am trying to decide if I am going to keep 17x11's on all 4 corners and if I can get my car to look exactly like this one (I mean only fender gap/wheels tucking and camber etc). Is this look achievable with strano bushing's or would I need global west upper control arms for this much negative camber?
That's a good -2, might be more. You want that for a look??? There is a performance reason for it, if it's a street only car I'd not recommend that much.
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#12
Launching!
i run -3...not ideal for street and yes the inside wears more quickly. with my current camber setting, I'm on pace to get 2 summers out of them and I will have to get them flipped. i autox weekly and track the car as well as drive it on the street. with camber set at -3, special attention must be paid to the toe setting...if toe is set incorrectly it will def. accelerate tire wear.
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Thanks for the info. I was thinking around -2 but I just wanted a refernce to be sure. I have 17 x 11's all around and was just wondering how much negative camber to run.
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To figure out how much negative camber to run, you'll need to go to the track and drive the car hard. After a few laps you should take tire temperature readings from the outside, middle, and inside surfaces of the tire. The temperature differences will tell you what part of the tire is actually contacting the road during cornering. You'll probably find the outside to run hotter than the inside - an indication you'll need more negative camber. Once you have your readings and have made you camber changes you'll find that tire temperatures are more evenly distributed.
That's how you correctly do it. I wouldn't set camber based on the look. An 11-inch wide tire probably wont want anything too extreme.
- Kevin
That's how you correctly do it. I wouldn't set camber based on the look. An 11-inch wide tire probably wont want anything too extreme.
- Kevin
#16
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Is the picture you posted of your car? If so, you want just about -2, it's not too extreme here (again if that's your car) because it looks to me like you are either autocrossing or tracking the car. And it looks like you are on Hoosiers too.
I *would* agree that -2 is too much for a pure street car, but from what I see that's not what I'm getting from the picture, so I don't agree that less is more here.
I *would* agree that -2 is too much for a pure street car, but from what I see that's not what I'm getting from the picture, so I don't agree that less is more here.
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Is the picture you posted of your car? If so, you want just about -2, it's not too extreme here (again if that's your car) because it looks to me like you are either autocrossing or tracking the car. And it looks like you are on Hoosiers too.
I *would* agree that -2 is too much for a pure street car, but from what I see that's not what I'm getting from the picture, so I don't agree that less is more here.
I *would* agree that -2 is too much for a pure street car, but from what I see that's not what I'm getting from the picture, so I don't agree that less is more here.
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Clearly you are then autocrossing it, right?
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Camber -1.5
Castor 4.5
Toe out 1/32
Seems to be the compromise between street and track for alignments on these cars.
My cars current setup with stock bushing are
Camber -.8
Castor 4.3
toe out 1/32
I have raced 15 events with this setup on 315-35-17 NT05s car feels pretty good. Most likely be buying GW A arms over the winter and run some where around -1.6 +-.1 camber.
Castor 4.5
Toe out 1/32
Seems to be the compromise between street and track for alignments on these cars.
My cars current setup with stock bushing are
Camber -.8
Castor 4.3
toe out 1/32
I have raced 15 events with this setup on 315-35-17 NT05s car feels pretty good. Most likely be buying GW A arms over the winter and run some where around -1.6 +-.1 camber.
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yep. Every so often. I don't have the time to go every month right now because of school.
Thanks! How much is your car lowerd to get -0.8 on the camber? And I think I will keep toe at 0 so I don't waste rubber going down the freeway lol.
Thanks for the info. I am not sure about whats considered extreme as that is a little subjective. At the same time I have never checked tire temps. I always thought chalk on the sidewall was a good indicator.
Camber -1.5
Castor 4.5
Toe out 1/32
Seems to be the compromise between street and track for alignments on these cars.
My cars current setup with stock bushing are
Camber -.8
Castor 4.3
toe out 1/32
I have raced 15 events with this setup on 315-35-17 NT05s car feels pretty good. Most likely be buying GW A arms over the winter and run some where around -1.6 +-.1 camber.
Castor 4.5
Toe out 1/32
Seems to be the compromise between street and track for alignments on these cars.
My cars current setup with stock bushing are
Camber -.8
Castor 4.3
toe out 1/32
I have raced 15 events with this setup on 315-35-17 NT05s car feels pretty good. Most likely be buying GW A arms over the winter and run some where around -1.6 +-.1 camber.
To figure out how much negative camber to run, you'll need to go to the track and drive the car hard. After a few laps you should take tire temperature readings from the outside, middle, and inside surfaces of the tire. The temperature differences will tell you what part of the tire is actually contacting the road during cornering. You'll probably find the outside to run hotter than the inside - an indication you'll need more negative camber. Once you have your readings and have made you camber changes you'll find that tire temperatures are more evenly distributed.
That's how you correctly do it. I wouldn't set camber based on the look. An 11-inch wide tire probably wont want anything too extreme.
- Kevin
That's how you correctly do it. I wouldn't set camber based on the look. An 11-inch wide tire probably wont want anything too extreme.
- Kevin