ive got a 95 ls1 swap car. The issue is that the car sits super high (ill post pics).
It has the ls1 tubed k and tubed upper and lower control arms with stock ws6 front springs, and knuckle.

is it possible for a spring to expand once being off a car for months?
when i got it aligned the tech didnt say anything looked wrong so i assume its not on backwards or something crazy.

Those pics (except the one with the soda can) are from a year ago so ill try and be as helpful as i can lol
Any idea why it sits high?

 

Are you still running LT1 front springs? If so i bet that has a lot to do with is. The LS1 weighs a good bit less than the LT1 you replaced it with. You might want to get a set of LS1 stock or lowering springs.

 

It's all ls based suspension.

 

springs didn't expand .what yr car are the front springs from ?

 

I was told it was from a 2000 ws6.

 

This is the tell-tale sign of torquing down your parts without load in the suspension. I would highly suggest that you loosen the bolts and then bounce the car to try and get it to settle. Then, while you still have weight on the suspension, tighten down the A-arms and the remaining suspension bolts. The vehicle should drop down to the appropriate level.
- Kevin

 

Just loosen the control arms and ect bounce it around then tighten. Easy ill try it

 

It works better if you have a hot girl in the car as you bounce it around, just saying lol

good luck!

 

If I replaced my shocks without a load on the suspension when I tightened down would I get this effect?

I replaced my old 150,000 mile front springs with some MOOG replacements so I just thought the new springs raised it. It is not a large a gap as pictured above but it is lifted after the new springs,strut mounts and Bilsteins.

Fender to the ground is 28.5 inches.

I only loosened the sway bar, the strut mounts and the upper ball joint.

Thanks

 

No, I don't think you're having the same problem. That sounds more like you went from sagging stock springs to a fresh set of springs that probably weren't 100% factory spec. The issue I was describing is known as "bushing clocking" where tension/preload is set into the bushing before load is presented. This will create resistance and essentially act like increased spring rate - impacting final ride height. Anytime there is a bushing or endlink, you'll probably want load in the suspension to finally torque them down.
- Kevin

 

Ok maybe I'm missing something. Do jack the car up loosen everything then put the wheel on bounce it (with a girl in the car) jack it ap again remove wheel then tighten and finally place wheel back on?
Or do I have to get a lift that I drive on to then mess with it all while its up in the air?

 

You have to have the suspension loaded before tightening the bolts. Loosening it, putting it down, bouncing, then jacking back up to tighten again defeats the purpose.

I don't have a lift, so what I did was put the front end on jack stands and use a floor jack on the lower arm to put load on the suspension until it almost started lifting off the stands. Then I cranked down the bolts.