UMI Torque Arm
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: UK
UMI Torque Arm I have an issue with the full length UMI torque arm hitting the tunnel near the diff. I am still running the stock 10 bolt and I am lowered on BMR springs.
I have read about people cutting the bracket to use the UMI arm with other axles, so can I do this to gain some more clearance with the 10 bolt?
I hope to find the cash for an s60 when my wife gets another job so whatever mods I do to it need to work with the s60 too.
Has anyone got details of what needs to be cut (assuming I can for a 10 bolt)?
Thanks
I have read about people cutting the bracket to use the UMI arm with other axles, so can I do this to gain some more clearance with the 10 bolt?
I hope to find the cash for an s60 when my wife gets another job so whatever mods I do to it need to work with the s60 too.
Has anyone got details of what needs to be cut (assuming I can for a 10 bolt)?
Thanks
Cutting the bracket allows the torque arm to slide in closer to the rear end and further from the tunnel. However don't cut the torque arm for the stock rear end, it won't fit back on... wait until you receive the S60. You can cut the torque arm and gain clearance when you install the S60. Basically you cut the first set of holes off and allow the arm to mount using the inner holes. For now use a hammer and dent the area in the tunnel where the torque arm is hitting to gain clearance.
For what its worth all aftermarket torque arms hit in the same area.
I hope that helps, Merry Christmas!
Ryan
For what its worth all aftermarket torque arms hit in the same area.
I hope that helps, Merry Christmas!
Ryan
The other thing to look at is make sure the rear end is centered under the car. A adjustable panhard bar will allow the rear end to moved over a little as well.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: UK
Thanks for the response.
I'm running a watts link and the rear is centred. If it wasn't for the pinion angle I'd switch back to the stock torque arm until I have saved enough pennies for the s60.
I just hate having to clearance the tunnel but as I want to lower the rear a little more (bought some of nastyc4's spring isolators) I guess I have no choice.
I'm running a watts link and the rear is centred. If it wasn't for the pinion angle I'd switch back to the stock torque arm until I have saved enough pennies for the s60.
I just hate having to clearance the tunnel but as I want to lower the rear a little more (bought some of nastyc4's spring isolators) I guess I have no choice.
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Verdad Gallardo Sorry If I was confusing. No this isn't correct.
What I was saying was in order to build a heavy duty torque arm the rear mounting point is wider and larger than a stock torque arm which brings it closer to the tunnel of the car. Now when you lower the the car it becomes even closer to the tunnel and tends to hit the tunnel area in the rear. It is 100% fine to use and drive, it just dents the tunnel area in the rear, after a few good launches it makes its own clearance. If you take a hammer you can dent it and add the needed clearance.
Also like I mentioned this isn't just with the UMI torque... all torque arms will do the same thing in the same rear, BMR, Spohn ect.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
but i could buy the long torque arm for a lowered car and not have any issues or should i get it off the tranny i break stock tranny mounts on street tires with the stock tq arm
Yes all our torque arms will work on a lowered car and all rear ends.
Relocating the torque arm off the transmission is always a good idea. However it might not prevent transmission bushings from breaking... it does prevent tail shafts from breaking.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
Unfortunately it is a downfall to running a heavy duty torque arm and lowering the car. When the car is lowered it brings the tunnel area even closer to the torque arm which makes it hit. Non-lowered cars only tend to hit when the car is launched hard.
The other thing to look at is make sure the rear end is centered under the car. A adjustable panhard bar will allow the rear end to moved over a little as well.
The other thing to look at is make sure the rear end is centered under the car. A adjustable panhard bar will allow the rear end to moved over a little as well.
Im asking because Ive never heard of the issue with the 10 bolt, only on aftermarket rears. Im lowered on strano springs and have your full length adj. torque arm and have no issues (it does come damn close to the tunnel though)
It seems the tunnel area on these cars may vary a little bit, therefore causing some brackets to hit and some not. Design engineers spend a lot of time deciding how to package things then we turn around and build something twice as thick and strong to go in the same place.
Like Ryan mentioned, we find these to self clearance rather nicely.
Like Ryan mentioned, we find these to self clearance rather nicely.
do u have a relocation kit also
Hope that helps,
Ryan
I've heard of this before, just had forgotten about it. I wouldn't be too worried about making a little more clearance in the tunnel since you'll never see it anyway and it won't negatively affect anything. Like Ryan said, you can do it or it will do it for you over time 
I'd prefer to make a dent under there with a hammer to avoid it making a hole like it did to 95sscamaro.
I'd prefer to make a dent under there with a hammer to avoid it making a hole like it did to 95sscamaro.
