American-Muscle1989

Hi all,

I was just wondering about the pros/cons of each type of discs compared to each other? ie stopping power, noise, feel, brake fade, wear on the dics, pads etc

I may want to upgrade mine at somepoint so I wanted to get an idea of what each disc might be better suited for.

Both are exactly the same price so that is not a factor.

Any thoughts?

Thanks guys

WS.SIX

iTrader: (3)

maximum stopping power and reliability = blanks

tradeoff some stopping power/reliability for some bling = drilled/slotted

American-Muscle1989

Hiya,

Thanks for your response. I thought the drilled and grooved discs helped cool the brakes to stop brake fad when braking hard in corners etc?

WS.SIX

iTrader: (3)

Not exactly...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...brake-faq.html

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Seems that the bottom line is a well built quality rotor will increase its durability in case you are on the brakes hard a lot, for road racing for example.

Most of the cheap/mid priced drilled rotors out there typically develop cracks after a while.

If you want stopping power, then what you want to be looking at is pads. I bet in your case that you just need some basic brake maintenance on the stock system with a fresh set of street/performance pads and clean rotors. Some basic maintenance will make your stock brakes feel like new.

ajwoodtransport

One of the main purposes of drilled or slotted disc is to give the gases a place to escape. During track days when the brakes get hot they will start to gas off. If there is no place for the gas to escape, it will basicaly become pheumatics (gases) coming off the pads versus the hydraulics pushing the pads on the disc. You will still have backpressure on the peddle, but the brakes themselves will fade greatly, and thus your stopping distance will greatly increase or the vehicle will not stop at all since there will be that gap of gasses preventing the pad to make contact with the disc. On the flip side, if you are having problems with hydraulic fluid boiling, or lines expanding, then the peddle will go futher to the floor and again you will loose stopping distance. Both are bad, but that's how you determine if you have a gassing off problem, or a hydraulic boiling/line problem. From what I've heard, is that the cheaper drilled disc have a tendency to crack. The higher quality ones will be drilled out with a slow hydraulic drill that doesn't cause stress fractures like a high speed drill would. Also I've heard that the higher quality one's will be beveled or recessed out a little by the holes. That's all I can add to the subject. Good luck.

JD_AMG

This was true years and years ago, but modern day pads do not gas out.

ajwoodtransport

Oh, ok. I haven't really haven't been in the market for brake pads/shoes recently, but as of 2007 you could still buy different pads/shoes in both the trucking industry and in sportbikes. In general the lower temp pads lasted longer and in some cases would actual stop shorter on one time stops, but would gas off quicker and not good for tracks or driving in the mountains....and the higher performance pads, or mountain shoes wouldn't last as long and sometimes didn't have as good of initial bite, but wouldn't gas off as easy. As of 5 years ago, even with upgraded shoes, my semi truck would still smoke down a mountain grade if I came down it too fast. After reading up on it, from my understanding, the reason some race teams opt for rotors without being cross drilled is because they are useing carbon fiber rotors which dissapate heat much quicker then the steel rotors we use on the street and therefore that allows them to focus more on maximum surface area. In the end, I would rather purchase solid rotors from reputable company, rather then sacrificing quality just for the sake of having cross drilled rotors. Just my opinion.