Are all subframes the same??
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 57
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From: HOUSTON
Are all subframes the same?? The only diference i see is that some are bolt on and the others weld in. Whice ones are the way to go?
Last edited by KINDA_FAST; Apr 19, 2004 at 10:05 AM.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 32
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From: Nor-Cal concord
My SLPs bolted right up out of the box, but some minor modification might be neccesary depending on if all the holes line up correctly. With weld-ons you can jack the car up ont the SFC which is pretty cool. My vote goes to Bolt-ons tho.
Good luck with whatever you get.
Good luck with whatever you get.
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 16
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From: ohio
If you are looking for the greatest impact go with Kenny Brown "double diamond" weld in. A welded SFC will not flex as much as a bolt in will. Yes bolt in are easier but what do you want? a stiff chassis or ease of installation?
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7
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From: Moline, IL
Another question regarding SFC's - do they have any noticeable impact on ride quality/handling at normal cruising speeds, or are their benefits only noticeable during more aggressive driving?
Last edited by Funker; Apr 20, 2004 at 01:20 PM.
I put SLP bolt on subframes on my 02 SS about a month ago. One word: BEEFY. The things are huge, and you can see them hanging from under the car. Luckily, they are black so you don't notice as much. If you get them, you'll know what I'm talking about. Mine didn't bolt right in, so I had to do some grinding. Nothing major, but a PITA nonetheless. Since then, I've had them welded in place just for extra peace of mind.
As far as the ride quality, you'll notice it stiffens everything up. No more dash rattles, and the car feels very stiff. You'll easily notice it when daily driving it, and especially when you are flogging on your car. You can tell the suspension has to do a lot more of the work (which it should) instead of the body flexing all over the place.
As far as the ride quality, you'll notice it stiffens everything up. No more dash rattles, and the car feels very stiff. You'll easily notice it when daily driving it, and especially when you are flogging on your car. You can tell the suspension has to do a lot more of the work (which it should) instead of the body flexing all over the place.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17
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From: Southern California
Checkit, on LMPerformance.com, the SLP bolt-on SFC's costs $100 more than the weld-on's. So, since when properly installed (i.e. suspension is loaded, etc) weld-in's will provide more rigidity, why not spend 100 bucks LESS and get the weld-in's. If you need to have them installed professionally, then do it. If you end up spending the whole $100 you saved, then you still come out on top with welded in SFC's as opposed to bolt-on's.
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 271
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From: Regina, SK
The only difference between the SLP bolt-ins and weld-on is that the bolt-on version is powdercoated. Lots of people have chosen to get the bolt-on style, and then weld them anyways, because the finish / corrosion resistance is better with powdercoating. Some have said that it's just about impossible to keep a coat of paint on the welded version, because of the sandblasting effect from the roadway.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,780
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From: Mi./Al.
Tiznobias, The weld-on's may cost less but there also not powder coated either, and unless you do your own welding plan on paying $50 to $150 to have them installed.
Steve, There's usally a little modding needed when installing the bolt-on's, each cars a little different plus body flexing that's happened before the install of SFC's, so it's no surprise to me you had to do a little grinding. I would have not welded them in but then again it's not my car.
Here's a link for anyone thinking of installing SLP bolt-on's SFC's. http://users3.ev1.net/~cnl1/firehawk/subframe/index.htm
Steve, There's usally a little modding needed when installing the bolt-on's, each cars a little different plus body flexing that's happened before the install of SFC's, so it's no surprise to me you had to do a little grinding. I would have not welded them in but then again it's not my car.
Here's a link for anyone thinking of installing SLP bolt-on's SFC's. http://users3.ev1.net/~cnl1/firehawk/subframe/index.htm
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17
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From: Southern California
DARK, yeah I noticed that powder coating thing....the KG DD's are supposed to be zinc-chromate plated to reduce corrosion...that as good as powder coating? Also, the KG DD's and the SLP's look pretty similar, how do they compare to each other? Strength? Weight? I plan to have them welded in, plus I have T-tops so I want to get stronger SFCs...sigh...i know this debate will rage on forever 
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 271
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From: Regina, SK
Originally Posted by Tiznobias
Also, the KB DD's and the SLP's look pretty similar, how do they compare to each other? Strength? Weight? I plan to have them welded in, plus I have T-tops so I want to get stronger SFCs...sigh...i know this debate will rage on forever
Also, what do the Kenny Brown's weigh? 10 to 15 pounds a piece(?)
Al (Dark Age 53),
I wasn't surprised that I had to do some grinding either...not all cars are the same, and I guess it is all a part of the ball game. As far as the welding went, I got a GREAT price on having them welded in, so I didn't even bat an eyelash...I can't say that I noticed any difference in the stiffness, but then again, I really won't have to check how tight the bolts are from now on. I like them, and it isn't anything a grinder couldn't take care of if need be.
As far as the weight, I never weighed mine, but I wouldn't be surprised if they weighed 20 pounds for each side. These are extremely beefy subframes...I compared them to some DDs, and they were seriously at least twice the size of them material-wise.
I wasn't surprised that I had to do some grinding either...not all cars are the same, and I guess it is all a part of the ball game. As far as the welding went, I got a GREAT price on having them welded in, so I didn't even bat an eyelash...I can't say that I noticed any difference in the stiffness, but then again, I really won't have to check how tight the bolts are from now on. I like them, and it isn't anything a grinder couldn't take care of if need be.
As far as the weight, I never weighed mine, but I wouldn't be surprised if they weighed 20 pounds for each side. These are extremely beefy subframes...I compared them to some DDs, and they were seriously at least twice the size of them material-wise.
I have bolt ons but got them welded afterwards anyway. Payed teh extra 100 for the powdercoating I guess. I have to dremel out the subframe alittle to get one of the anchor bolts through though. Either way just get them you will not regret it. Also if your car has some milage when you do the blot ons (like mine did (40k)) then you may have to fight to get the holes lined up doe to body flex that has already happened due to the lack of SFC's.
Peace.
Peace.