BMR/Koni Shock Value Sale
#222
We recommend 5 full sweeps from full soft on the front and 1 position past full soft on the rear. If you wanted to set them a little stiffer it definitely wouldn't hurt anything at all. The rear shocks should have definitely come with bushings so if your didn't give Kevin a call here at the shop and he can take care of you.
5 full sweeps from full soft? These don't have clicks? How do you know when your at full soft?
Then on the rear, "past full soft" how do you go past full?
Sorry, just confused on the wording Im sure. I wouldn't be so concerned but I don't want to do it twice if I don't have to.....
Pics or a Vid would be helpful. If I missed them somewhere could you point me to them? Thanks!
#223
What? You couldn't decipher the hieroglyph sheets? That's what I felt like they were! I searched online for a bit and this is what I came up with:
+ means firmer
- means softer
Counter-clockwise increases firmness
Clockwise increases softness
All 4 of mine were already at full soft, meaning I got the 'dial' to move some in the counter-clockwise position to see how stiff the dial is. Once it was easy to move, I just dialed it in the clockwise direction till it stopped...that's full soft. From there, just do one full sweep (~1/3rd of a full turn) 5 times.
The rears are the same.
Now, either I deciphered it right, which means I don't have to redo mine or I deciphered it horribly wrong and have to do it over.
+ means firmer
- means softer
Counter-clockwise increases firmness
Clockwise increases softness
All 4 of mine were already at full soft, meaning I got the 'dial' to move some in the counter-clockwise position to see how stiff the dial is. Once it was easy to move, I just dialed it in the clockwise direction till it stopped...that's full soft. From there, just do one full sweep (~1/3rd of a full turn) 5 times.
The rears are the same.
Now, either I deciphered it right, which means I don't have to redo mine or I deciphered it horribly wrong and have to do it over.
#224
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Could you please elaborate on this please? Im a little confused with the "sweeps" and "positions".
5 full sweeps from full soft? These don't have clicks? How do you know when your at full soft?
Then on the rear, "past full soft" how do you go past full?
Sorry, just confused on the wording Im sure. I wouldn't be so concerned but I don't want to do it twice if I don't have to.....
Pics or a Vid would be helpful. If I missed them somewhere could you point me to them? Thanks!
5 full sweeps from full soft? These don't have clicks? How do you know when your at full soft?
Then on the rear, "past full soft" how do you go past full?
Sorry, just confused on the wording Im sure. I wouldn't be so concerned but I don't want to do it twice if I don't have to.....
Pics or a Vid would be helpful. If I missed them somewhere could you point me to them? Thanks!
Did you get the on-car or off-car adjustable rear shocks? If you have the on-car adjustable you need to slide the adjusting **** on the top of the shock and turn the **** towards the - until it stops, this will be full soft. From there I would recommed going a half to full turn towards the +. If you have the off-car adjustable you need to have the shock off the car and slide the dust boot down, this will show the button that needs to be pressed down so the adjsutment can be made. Hold the button down and turn the shock counter clock-wise until is stop from this point hold the button down and turn the shock clock-wise one position and this will be a good starting point on the rear.
Hopefully this makes a little more sense, if not just call us here at the shop and we can go over it over the phone.
Kyle
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www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
#225
Thanks Kyle! I was going to start on this yesterday and just thought Id wait till I hear from you. Ill look at them in the next day or two and call you if I have any further questions!!
#228
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If you guys have any questions don't hesitate to ask here in this thread or give me a call directly at the shop and I will make sure we get them answered for you.
Kyle
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
#230
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Kyle
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
#231
A quick before/after comparison. Amazing what ~1.25-1.5" can do for looks and handling.
I've been driving around to get a feel for the setup to see if I need to tweak it. I replaced every bushing/rubber component that I had access to during this job. The car only has 50k miles but I figured an extra $100-$150 is worth it to make the entire job complete. The car is noticeably tighter, more responsive and rides a heck of a lot better than it did. I went with the suggested settings by BMR and it's a great place to start. I'm going to try 1 sweep to the firm side and see how it does for my taste.
The only drawback to doing this was that a foot long gash got put on my hood from a lapse in judgement with the garage door.
Awesome deal, awesome products!! All my suspension stuff is BMR (lca's, adj. phr, sfc, springs).
I've been driving around to get a feel for the setup to see if I need to tweak it. I replaced every bushing/rubber component that I had access to during this job. The car only has 50k miles but I figured an extra $100-$150 is worth it to make the entire job complete. The car is noticeably tighter, more responsive and rides a heck of a lot better than it did. I went with the suggested settings by BMR and it's a great place to start. I'm going to try 1 sweep to the firm side and see how it does for my taste.
The only drawback to doing this was that a foot long gash got put on my hood from a lapse in judgement with the garage door.
Awesome deal, awesome products!! All my suspension stuff is BMR (lca's, adj. phr, sfc, springs).
#235
Generally people just pick up a new set of strut mounts depending on the condition and mileage of their current ones. You can also get the strut bearing plate insulator which is the little piece that sits on top of the monut if you want to replace everything up top. The best/cheapest place to pick up these parts is www.rockauto.com.
Kyle
Kyle
#236
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If you don't want to undo your current strut assy, then you will need 3 parts per side; upper strut mount, upper absorber for under the nut and the lower spring seat. (Nit sure on exact part names).
#237
I need to track down the part numbers of these three parts so I can put together the new assemblies before taking the old ones out.
#240
Found them. So, to fully put together the front assemblies before taking yours off, you will need:?
MOOG Strut Mount (Front Left Upper) - K6516 - $45.79
MOOG Strut Mount (Front Right Upper) - K6517 - $46.79
MOOG Spring Insulator - K6573 - $4.46 x 2
MOOG Coil seat - K80927 - $11.40 X 2
That's $123.32 plus shipping from Rockauto. That is in addition to the shocks and coil springs. Everything will be new and you don't have to disassemble the stock assembly while the car is up in the air. Sounds good.
MOOG Strut Mount (Front Left Upper) - K6516 - $45.79
MOOG Strut Mount (Front Right Upper) - K6517 - $46.79
MOOG Spring Insulator - K6573 - $4.46 x 2
MOOG Coil seat - K80927 - $11.40 X 2
That's $123.32 plus shipping from Rockauto. That is in addition to the shocks and coil springs. Everything will be new and you don't have to disassemble the stock assembly while the car is up in the air. Sounds good.