Just something I'm experiencing right now. installed new Spohn fixed upper and adjustable lower control arms on my '01 Trans Am. Techs are having some issues Aligning front end. The type I ordered have to be taken out for the ends to be screwed in / out. The guy aligning it all up actually told me that it would have been easier to align with non-adjustable. Not sure who else has experienced this. But a 45 minute computer aligned job has ended up being a couple of hours so far!

 

Unless things are WAY off, the alignment process should be the same as non adjustables. But if you didn't match the dimensions of the factory ones to the new aftermarket ones as close as possible, I can see how this would take a lot longer. As far as I know all the aftermarket front control arms that are adjustable have to be removed to be adjusted.

 

Took a while but got it aligned, drove it around the block and the steering wheel is just a hair off center - only reason why its bothering me is because it has always been dead center since I've owned the car. No worries tho, tech told me to drive it for a few weeks, let the new springs and everything settle in, and he will fine tune the alignment. but is like driving a different car! Next Fbody I upgrade suspension on I'm buying non-adjustables.

 

Nothing wrong with the adjustable front lower control arms, you just make sure to mark around mount bolt heads before removing the factory arms, and set your adjustable arms to stock mount lengths. That's how I set my UMI s with rod-ends.
IMO, I consider them to be front LCAs with replaceable pivot ends.
Anyway good to hear it all worked out.

 

Agreed. Plus a much tighter connection between the moving parts; no more soft connection like with the rubber/poly.

 

With our a-arms, we recommend setting them to factory length (which is how they are shipped) and using the adjustment slots in the k-member to align it. Really you shouldn't need to actually adjust the lower a-arm in most cases.

 

Not to hi-jack your thread but it's better than starting a new one. Being I have same issues. Just got the car off the alignment rack after 2hrs. of fussing with it and this is the best they could do. The right side control arm is maxed out in the slot and cannot get the camber any lower than -1.4. I have all new ball jonts,tie rod ends, UMI Non-adj. uppers and poly-roto adj. lowers. What could be the issue?

 

its got to be the adjustable lower A arms, are you saying the A arm adjustment is maxed out too. If I did it all over again I'd go with non-adjustable lower A arms and use the factory slots to align it. We also installed upper A arms, new rack and pinion, ST sway bars, Vogtland springs and Bilsteins, moog tie rods, so I knew going in the alignment was going to be a job. The shop I used had a new computer/software/camera system that was awesome, and the tech had over 25 years in alignments and even he was getting frustrated. I'll drive the car for a few weeks, let things settle, and take back for fine tuning, maybe get off cheap this time.

 

Yes the front of the control arm with the through bolt going horizontal. It is slid back towards the motor in the slot as far as it can go. And its still showing -1.4 camber.

 

If this is the case, then you need to start adjusting the ends on the control arm.

 

The front UMI lca poly mount position is fixed/not adjustable; correct ?
Are both the L & R lca's adjusted to exactly the same length ?
FYI, adjusting the caster will change the camber some as will adjusting the camber change the caster some.

 

Yes it is not adjustable.
No they are not the same length I tried to get them the same length but I could not get the control arm to line up with the slots in the cradle. UMI told me that that was okay because the engine cradles are not perfectly square.

 

The only possible solution I can think of is to extend the adjustment slot in the K-member by cutting/grinding. I'm really not sure how much you would need to extend the camber slot for 1* more camber adjustment.
IMO, I'd contact UMI they should have a good idea what it should take.

 

Thanks for the advice, I may have found my issue. I noticed that on the upper plate that sets on top of the strut and the upper a-arm mounts too one of the tabs that mounts the front of the upper control arm is slightly twisted/bent. This may be enough to not get the camber in spec. I hope so I couldnt find a used one so i had to buy new upper a-arm and that mounting plate to the note of $250 from GM.