technical

Decided to make my own sfcs over the winter from 2x2/2x3 .120 wall tubing.

buellxb12s

iTrader: (9)

looks good. I seen they are doing a similar setup being done on the copo cars.

chadroosa

iTrader: (14)

looks good!!

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

looks great ! any more pics?

Tbird232ci

iTrader: (4)

A lot of fox body guys do similar setups and are the most effective way to do SFC's. Looks great.

SuperSport01

Looks good! I would love to see more pics of the underside. Props to you for getting down and dirty and making your own stuff thats more than likely better than what can be bought!

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

Nice job.... this is by far the best way to do a set of subframe connectors, but obviously a whole lot more involved than what your average guy is looking to do too.

BTW... nice rearend and torque arm you have there

Give me a call when your ready for a cage kit!

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

I'm jelly

technical

As requested... some more pics (underneath the car)


Driver side:


Driver side attaching to the front subframe:


Driver side rear attachment:



Passenger side attaching to the front subframe:


Passenger side rear attachment:

technical

Thanks!

Hopefully I landed the tubing in the right spot for a cage. Love the rear and torque arm. Shaved 0.2 off my 60ft on street tires with that rear and the AFCOs you recommended.

Mighty Whitey

Looks good! I'm really digging this style of subframe connector. So much do that I have a 24' stick of 2x2x.125" tube sitting in the shop ready to be used for this exact purpose. Lol
I like the outrigger idea, but I think I'll wait till I actually
Put the cage in the car to weld them in. Should aid in letting te cage drop thru the floor some to make it easier on welding fully around each joint (not to mention fighting with stubborn tubes.
In the case of using outriggers from the rocker to the sfc, are 6x6" plates still required under the main hoop and front down bars? To me the outrigger is substantially stronger than the plate

pillarpod

how much time do you have into this route?

technical

I think the plates are still required. I thought I read (nhra rules) that the hoop cannot be welded to sfcs. If/when I do a cage I'll still plate it.




A fair amount. Much was spent measuring/fitting. All told: disassembly, cutting/welding, seam sealer, paint, reassembly.. probably north of 50 but south of 100 hours.

UMD_Jesse

iTrader: (6)

That's ballsy. Good job

bigbumperforlife

Jealous. Jealous and thinking about how I could do it. This could be a bad combo.

Mighty Whitey

How did you measure to cut the slot out in the floor pan?
That's the only thing I'm racking my brain on. Don't really want to cut to wide and put some god awful weld bead down to fill the gap. Lol

technical

Don't sweat that part. You're not gonna cut it perfect 100%. Find you're spot from underneath. Drill some holes along the way using flat stock as a guide then you'll be able to find the line on the top side. *WHEN* you cut wide you can fix it with a patch. I cut the outside of the driver side wide because I wanted to move the rail inward so I made a long patch by bending/flanging/punching a piece of sheet so that I could weld it on several sides. You can see it in the picture. (Driver side underneath)