silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

Ok,

I installed a UMI adjustable torque arm and its the bees knees however now I have some BAD vibration around 60-70mph above 70mph It gets less but once I go above 60 the vibration never complete disappears.

I have stock everything under the car, except exhaust and the torque arm.

I have the torque arm set to -3 (which was recommended for M6 cars)

The exhaust sits very close and touches the torque arm barely.

Could the rubbing cause some of the vibration? Should I go more positive or more negative to try to loose the vibration? I have a hard time getting the car up on a lift and its my daily driver.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

-3 could be too much for the street. You might want to back it down to -1 or 0 and see how the car reacts. You can count your adjuster turns so you could easily change it at the track with out a gunge.

Exhaust rubbing can definitely cause this as well.

Hope that helps,
Ryan

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the info, how do I count the turns in reference to a degree? is it a full turn, half turn or quarter? Also looking at it from the driver side would I pull the wrench towards me or push it away?

EDIT:

The previous owner kinda did a crappy job with the exhaust so instead of fixing it im just trying to save up to bolt in a true duals setup. I could just adjust it and see what happens. If I recall though I had initially had it set to 0 and it had a good bit vibration 0-40 and the higher I went the less it was till disappearing around 65mph. However I think I may have been miss measuring and not understanding how to read the shaft vs arm measurements.
I can use the angle finder and figure it out again.......but lift use is super hard to get and if I adjust it too much I still need to be able to drive it.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

with a wrench on the adjuster if you pull the wrench towards the driver's side it'll point the axle downward more.
what i did was use a black magic marker and write on the flats of the hex adjuster 1 2 3 4 5 6. when i turn it looking at the numbers, if the numbers increase then i'm pointing the axle down more. and then you can record on paper what your setting was and keep track of things. going from memory i want to say on mine if i turn the adjuster a half turn it's about a 1/2 degree change, and mine is the long adjustable arm #2205.
if you have a way of safely getting under the car you can adjust it, a lift and keeping the car flat is not required. i've jacked up the rear and been under and out in a minute turning the adjuster. my experience it's too easy to mis-measure with an angle finder and be off a 1-2°, you're best bet is to adjust a half turn at a time and drive.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

What I recommend is use the gauge to set it, but while setting keep track of the turns. This way you know the number of turns if you decide to change at the track.

Hope that helps,
Ryan

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

Numbering the nut is a great idea. I assume increase the angle downward makes the angle more negative?
And this should help me get the car perfect. I almost ordered a competitors torque arm but after seeing some bad QC and they not admitting it and how the complete opposite behavior of umi was the case and how your on here helping even with my question I'm glad I went with you guys.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Glad to hear we could help and we are happy to have you as a customer!

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys so this one wont be an easy fix I guess. I moved the angle to -.5 and the vibration is still there but doesnt come in till 65mph and is ALITTLE less violent.

I am trying to figure which attempt to fix things is best to go?

Im going this weekend to put it on stands to check if its a wheel issue by having the wheels off and getting it up to speed.

I have a poly tranny mount, which I was wondering if there is a special way to mount the tranny mount as maybe it was installed wrong....or something I guess.

I get minor vibe in the wheel and major vibes in the floor/seat at freeway speeds vibe in the wheel is very minor and just increase just becomes barely noticeable.

previous owner said he had to use alot of weight to balance the rims soooooo that makes me think bent rims. but idk. anyways thanks guys.

Steinjager

If there was no vibration prior to the TA install, and nothing else changed, the first area I would check is the u-joints. When installing an adjustable TA and changing drive line angles you are changing the angle the joints have been running at for the past XXXXXX miles...doing so can induce a vibration.

The only thing you said that makes me think tires is that you can also feel it in the steering wheel, which is usually an indication of a front suspension,steering, or tire balance issue.

You may have multiple issues going on, make sure to take your time and work through the diagnosis....NVH issues can be a real pain to trace down, but, are usually fairly common sense issues.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

While what these guys say is true for the most part, you may also want to investigate the entire driveline angle setup, not just the pinion angle. Yes... there is a difference. If the car is anything but stock ride height with stock mounts and stock rearend then you will need to do a little more than just setting pinion angle. I suggest to invest in a digital angle finder also. Craftsman has a descent one that is very cost efficient.