Alignment issues
#1
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Long post, sorry in advance. Just got back from the alignment shop (good one), and here are the final specs.
Left Front (listed before, actual, range)
Camber: -1.09, 0.06, -0.10 to 0.90
Caster: 4.30, 5.38, 4.30 to 5.30
Toe: -0.42, 0.03, -0.05 to 0.05
Right Front (listed before, actual, range)
Camber: -1.87, 0.03, -0.10 to 0.90
Caster: 4.12, 5.49, 4.30 to 5.30
Toe: -0.47, 0.02, -0.05 to 0.05
Rear thrust angle: -0.07
I wanted a strictly street alignment, since I don't do any track or auto-x. As you can see, camber is off. The tech could not get the camber any more positive than it is, because the passenger lower A-arm is maxed out. He put the caster where it is because of the camber.
Suspension mods:
BMR 1.25" lowering springs, all 4 corners
Bilstein HD shocks, all 4 corners
Strano 35/22 sway bars
BMR adjustable panhard rod
Rear LCA relocation brackets
Moog upper/lower ball joints
Moog tie rod ends
OE Wheels 17" rims
BF Goodrich Comp2 tires 275/40/17 all around
All parts are new, and have nearly no miles on them. Everything else is stock. But here's the thing. The k-member is out of a 97 car that was in an accident. It slid sideways into a couple poles, one of which hit the front driver side rim, breaking it. So I have the k-member, and the upper and lower A-arms out of the 97. I have steering knuckles out of a 99 Firebird, for the LS1 brake swap. Unknown accident history of 99 Firebird.
I told the tech these things, but he was way ahead of me, and said he could not find any signs of a bent k-member or bent A-arms, or even bent knuckles. The passenger A-arm is all the way in on the front bolt, no adjustment left. I have not taken the car to a frame shop, but I would think the tech would have caught this anyway. He said he got it the best he possibly could.
Other than that, the car drives great and tracks much better than before. I would really hate to drop a bunch of money on adjustable A-arms, because I don't need them for how I drive it. Anyone have any thoughts on this, or what the issue could possibly be? Or is this just a normal thing I get for lowering it?
Left Front (listed before, actual, range)
Camber: -1.09, 0.06, -0.10 to 0.90
Caster: 4.30, 5.38, 4.30 to 5.30
Toe: -0.42, 0.03, -0.05 to 0.05
Right Front (listed before, actual, range)
Camber: -1.87, 0.03, -0.10 to 0.90
Caster: 4.12, 5.49, 4.30 to 5.30
Toe: -0.47, 0.02, -0.05 to 0.05
Rear thrust angle: -0.07
I wanted a strictly street alignment, since I don't do any track or auto-x. As you can see, camber is off. The tech could not get the camber any more positive than it is, because the passenger lower A-arm is maxed out. He put the caster where it is because of the camber.
Suspension mods:
BMR 1.25" lowering springs, all 4 corners
Bilstein HD shocks, all 4 corners
Strano 35/22 sway bars
BMR adjustable panhard rod
Rear LCA relocation brackets
Moog upper/lower ball joints
Moog tie rod ends
OE Wheels 17" rims
BF Goodrich Comp2 tires 275/40/17 all around
All parts are new, and have nearly no miles on them. Everything else is stock. But here's the thing. The k-member is out of a 97 car that was in an accident. It slid sideways into a couple poles, one of which hit the front driver side rim, breaking it. So I have the k-member, and the upper and lower A-arms out of the 97. I have steering knuckles out of a 99 Firebird, for the LS1 brake swap. Unknown accident history of 99 Firebird.
I told the tech these things, but he was way ahead of me, and said he could not find any signs of a bent k-member or bent A-arms, or even bent knuckles. The passenger A-arm is all the way in on the front bolt, no adjustment left. I have not taken the car to a frame shop, but I would think the tech would have caught this anyway. He said he got it the best he possibly could.
Other than that, the car drives great and tracks much better than before. I would really hate to drop a bunch of money on adjustable A-arms, because I don't need them for how I drive it. Anyone have any thoughts on this, or what the issue could possibly be? Or is this just a normal thing I get for lowering it?
#2
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I would say your car is fine since it has been lowered this would change the suspension geometry and increase negative camber. By the way anything above -1.5 camber is the realm of racing and not street driven cars. Also I think your car is going to gain more negative camber if the suspension hasn't settled yet. Toe is what eats tires a lot more than negative camber.
#3
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It's been a while since I've looked really closely at my car's K-member, to see where the adjustment bolt sits, but back in '96, when I initially lowered it with a set of Eibach springs, I took some time and lengthened the slots the a-arm locates in. I used a Dremel tool, and added about 1/4" to the slot (toward the inside). In all the years since, I've never had an issue being able to get "0" camber.
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Zero it for longer tire life. I think your alignment is fine and very mild. My car is -2.3 camber and 1/16 toe out. Drives super easy, predictable and not twitchy on the highway.
#10
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Long post, sorry in advance. Just got back from the alignment shop (good one), and here are the final specs.
Left Front (listed before, actual, range)
Camber: -1.09, 0.06, -0.10 to 0.90
Caster: 4.30, 5.38, 4.30 to 5.30
Toe: -0.42, 0.03, -0.05 to 0.05
Right Front (listed before, actual, range)
Camber: -1.87, 0.03, -0.10 to 0.90
Caster: 4.12, 5.49, 4.30 to 5.30
Toe: -0.47, 0.02, -0.05 to 0.05
Rear thrust angle: -0.07
. . .
Left Front (listed before, actual, range)
Camber: -1.09, 0.06, -0.10 to 0.90
Caster: 4.30, 5.38, 4.30 to 5.30
Toe: -0.42, 0.03, -0.05 to 0.05
Right Front (listed before, actual, range)
Camber: -1.87, 0.03, -0.10 to 0.90
Caster: 4.12, 5.49, 4.30 to 5.30
Toe: -0.47, 0.02, -0.05 to 0.05
Rear thrust angle: -0.07
. . .
. . .
I have steering knuckles out of a 99 Firebird, for the LS1 brake swap. Unknown accident history of 99 Firebird.
I told the tech these things, but he was way ahead of me, and said he could not find any signs of a bent k-member or bent A-arms, or even bent knuckles. The passenger A-arm is all the way in on the front bolt, no adjustment left.
. . .
I have steering knuckles out of a 99 Firebird, for the LS1 brake swap. Unknown accident history of 99 Firebird.
I told the tech these things, but he was way ahead of me, and said he could not find any signs of a bent k-member or bent A-arms, or even bent knuckles. The passenger A-arm is all the way in on the front bolt, no adjustment left.
. . .
To get more negative camber, doesn't the lower a-arm need to move outward (not inward)...?
Last edited by joecar; 08-02-2013 at 01:27 AM.
#11
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Yes, you normally push the lower a-arm outward to add negative camber. But on some of the cars, depending on how much you lower it, you actually have to pull the arms inward, as lowering the car adds negative camber by itself.
#12
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Thanks for clearing that up, joecar. I'm not sure why I was thinking positive toe was out. Since it is in fact toe in, I think I'll leave it where it is.
Yes, moving the lower A-arm out gives more negative, but the tech was trying to put it in the middle of GM spec. If you look at the before values, you can see it was way too negative to begin with because of lowering, and cannot go any more positive because the passenger side is maxed positive.
While I may have a bent knuckle, I believe the issue here is more likely just a consequence of lowering. I plan to drive it around a bit more before I make my final judgement, but I think it should be good where it is. The springs have been on the car about 4 months now, with maybe 50-100 miles on them, so I'm hoping they have settled already.
Yes, moving the lower A-arm out gives more negative, but the tech was trying to put it in the middle of GM spec. If you look at the before values, you can see it was way too negative to begin with because of lowering, and cannot go any more positive because the passenger side is maxed positive.
While I may have a bent knuckle, I believe the issue here is more likely just a consequence of lowering. I plan to drive it around a bit more before I make my final judgement, but I think it should be good where it is. The springs have been on the car about 4 months now, with maybe 50-100 miles on them, so I'm hoping they have settled already.
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If it were me, I would go negative on Camber. Around -.5* Most of us would kill for your caster.
-1.0* Camber
+4.6* Caster
1/32 Toe in
Street driven, raced once in a while and perfect tire wear. Great street manners.
-1.0* Camber
+4.6* Caster
1/32 Toe in
Street driven, raced once in a while and perfect tire wear. Great street manners.