When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok, new to this ABS delete topic, but considering it due to the factory ABS unit giving the usual trouble (ABS light comes on, throws code, etc...). Now, what changes will I see by deleting ABS as opposed to the stock system when braking?
None during normal braking. Actually I've noticed none even during hard braking. I've yet to lock the tires up on dry pavement. During the wet you would want to have your front rear bias setup properly and not jam the brakes during a panic stop. If you are aware of your cars abilities I believe living without abs in this day and age is not a big deal. I don't follow closely either so as to minimize my chance of a panic stop. Just have to drive a little smarter.
So what does either the SJM kit or the DIY method do about all the lights on the dash lighting up? Other than strips of black tape how do u turn them off? Can they be tuned out?
No, they are activated by the BCM not the engine computer. Tuning software like hptuners only accesses the engine's computer. You cannot remove the bulbs on LS cars because they are LEDs. My solution was pull the gauge panel, and fill the light chutes with black silicone. Its very easy to do and its so nice not having any dash lights on.
Has anyone gone the full distance and deleated the wiring? I'm in the process of doing so... pined out from fuse block, cut from abs connector, pull thru wire loom. Goal is to remove all abs wiring associated with abs.
Has anyone gone the full distance and deleated the wiring? I'm in the process of doing so... pined out from fuse block, cut from abs connector, pull thru wire loom. Goal is to remove all abs wiring associated with abs.
I've done it, I removed everything ABS related and switched over to manual brake master cylinder.
Any tips for me? I'm removing the wires 1 by 1 so don't mess it up... just going slow!
Take it slow is the best tip. I checked then double checked, to make sure the wire I was going to remove was start to finish the exact wire I wanted to remove. The wheel sensor wires are easy to spot if I remember right they're the only ones twisted together. Paper clip or welding wire works well for releasing the wires from the plugs and fuse boxes.
Take it slow is the best tip. I checked then double checked, to make sure the wire I was going to remove was start to finish the exact wire I wanted to remove. The wheel sensor wires are easy to spot if I remember right they're the only ones twisted together. Paper clip or welding wire works well for releasing the wires from the plugs and fuse boxes.
You can unsolder the LEDs from the board, I've done it for a different light. Just make sure you know what you're doing. You can fry a board quick if you don't.
Or to get the ABS light to not come on all you have to do is pull the light green and then yellow/black wire out of the loom at the ABS and ground them.
I've done it, I removed everything ABS related and switched over to manual brake master cylinder.
Which Master Cylinder would that be?
I've pulled the ABS off my '96 Tahoe, but my brakes are still pretty lame. They're hard and slow for the 1st few stops.
The '96 Tahoe ABS had a box with 2 In and 3 Out lines.
I've obtained the Tee and Lines for the front brakes off of a pre-abs truck and am about to replace the generic tee that the shop installed. The GM Tee's have a 'safety valve' in them, don't they? So, in case of one-side failure, the front brakes don't fail catastrophically, right?
I'd guess that the F-Body Master Cylinder is going to be different than a Tahoe Master Cylinder, but what would I be looking for when trying to pick one? Like larger or smaller orifice's? Bore size? Whatever might make a difference...
So I'm just deleting my ABS but not installing a line lock (I don't do much drag racing, just drifting) and ever since I had a shop install my 4.10 gears the ABS hasn't worked. With the ABS inop it seems to be WAY to biased to the front.
I'm installing a Wilwood proportioning valve and wanted to see if anyone knew for sure which line I should plug into which port.
Here is the ABS block.
Here is how I assume they should be connected to the proportioning valve.
MC1 (which comes from the rear of the Master Cylinder) into FI port.
MC2 (which comes from the front of the Master Cylinder) into RI port.
then RF and LF into the two FO ports.
and R into RO port.
If this looks correct or incorrect please let me know. I'd like to have some validation before I go messing with my brakes a ton.
So I'm just deleting my ABS but not installing a line lock (I don't do much drag racing, just drifting) and ever since I had a shop install my 4.10 gears the ABS hasn't worked. With the ABS inop it seems to be WAY to biased to the front.
I'm installing a Wilwood proportioning valve and wanted to see if anyone knew for sure which line I should plug into which port.
Here is the ABS block.
Here is how I assume they should be connected to the proportioning valve.
MC1 (which comes from the rear of the Master Cylinder) into FI port.
MC2 (which comes from the front of the Master Cylinder) into RI port.
then RF and LF into the two FO ports.
and R into RO port.
If this looks correct or incorrect please let me know. I'd like to have some validation before I go messing with my brakes a ton.
i'm about to do this mod and was wondering if this ^ was correct.
04-15-2014, 04:34 AM
