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Lower Ball Joint boot

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Old 12-09-2013 | 01:47 PM
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Default Lower Ball Joint boot

I think I damaged my LBJ boot on one side removing my LT1 spindles for an LS1 brake swap. The ball joint seems pretty firm. I almost have to use two hands to move it.n Can I replace/fix the boot with the BJ on the car? Do I look okay to just go ahead and throw on the new spindles? Or should I be pulling the LCA and taking it to a shop to have a new ball joint pressed in? Car is a '97 SS with 157k miles

Old 12-09-2013 | 06:23 PM
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As I read your post, I was first going to suggest an Energy Suspension boot. Then I got to the part where you said, "157K miles". After hearing that, I strongly suggest a new b/j....
Old 12-10-2013 | 10:51 PM
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I was able to get the LCA off so I guess I'm going to go ahead and do LBJs. I've heard mixed things about Moog, any suggestions? I was just going to get delco at rock auto but figured I'd ask.

Should I be replacing the UBJ as well at this time or am I okay if it feels stiff and isn't leaking. The wheels had no play (while in air) before I removed them. I'd like to save $$$ if possible as other aspects of the winter project are starting to nickel and dime.
Old 12-11-2013 | 06:27 PM
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Go with Moog....they're the best. While you're in it that far, the uppers aren't all that big a deal to do.
Old 12-16-2013 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Go with Moog....they're the best. While you're in it that far, the uppers aren't all that big a deal to do.
So I ordered a Moog LBJ last week and went to button up the drivers side yesterday. Upper ball joint was spinning when I tried to tighten up the LS1 spindle. I tore everything back apart and ordered another LBJ and 2 UBJ's.

I don't want to look at my receipts.
Old 12-18-2013 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RedLT1Z
So I ordered a Moog LBJ last week and went to button up the drivers side yesterday. Upper ball joint was spinning when I tried to tighten up the LS1 spindle. I tore everything back apart and ordered another LBJ and 2 UBJ's.

I don't want to look at my receipts.
I hate to rain on your parade, but unless you're pulling the upper control arm firmly into the spindle, when you're tightening the nut on the b/j stud, it WILL spin the stud. But again, with 157K on the clock, you're doing yourself a favor.


Here's a tip, if you're using a b/j press on the lower b/j's. Leave the LCA bolted to the car, that way you're not fighting to keep the LCA from dancing all over the place as you're tightening up the press....
Old 04-04-2014 | 11:24 AM
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You can get a factory complete upper control arm with bushings and ball joint for about 40 bucks but not a lower that I can find.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...brand=mevotech
Old 04-04-2014 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Jr.Samples
You can get a factory complete upper control arm with bushings and ball joint for about 40 bucks but not a lower that I can find.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...brand=mevotech
that uses the mevotech ball joint and bushings, which are a FAR cry from the quality of the Moog Problem Solver line when it comes to build quality and longevity, based on every comparison of the brands I could find online.
Old 04-04-2014 | 01:14 PM
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I wouldn't put Mevotech stuff on any car I cared about.

Moog joints are usually pretty good. But just a heads up, they make them slightly oversized to fit tightly in arms with worn holes which means they can be quite a bear to get pressed back in. I froze the joint and heated up the arm to help it go together a slight bit easier.
Old 04-06-2014 | 10:37 PM
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Go with MOOG. I replaced my u/l ball joints and tie rod ends with MOOG parts and was very pleased. The quality is excellent.



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