So, I've been on the fence with what I want to do with my suspension. I care about straight line performance, driving it on the street, and having some ability to corner. Not looking for an AutoX machine or something that will cut 1.2s, but you know 1.5s/1.6s on Drag Radials and something that can handle when I ask it to... all without beating me up. So the holy grail of having my cake and eating it too.

Also, I don't want the car lowered down too much. I have true duals that will scrape everything. And I have had really low cars. They look good, but they are a giant PITA.

I have Billet Specialities 17x9.5 with 275/40 Nitto NT05s on the front and 17x11 with 315/35 NT05Rs on the rear. I want a balanced car, even though this setup is prone to understeer.

I also have the BMR Panhard Relo Kit with a Founders adjustable PH bar with Poly Bushings, Founders LCAs with Poly Joints, Founders LCA Relo Brackets, and a BMR Adjustable Full Length Torque Arm with TA Relo Bracket.

Several options I've been looking at:

Viking Double Adjustable Front Coilovers with 350lbs spring, DA Rear Shocks with stock springs. I would adjust the front coilovers to match the ride height of stock. Probably would handle slightly better but still have a nice ride. I'd probably keep the stock sways. Ideal for straight line traction.

SLP 70002 Bilstein/Eibach Package. Doesn't lower down much, but also increases both spring rate and rebound compression rate. Seems like a good compromise for handling and driving, but unsure how it would affect straight line traction. Sways would be either stock or Strano 35mm front/22mm adjustable rear sway bars. Seems like it's a good balance.

Strano Springs/Konis with Strano 35/22 adj rear sway bar kit. Ultimate handling, decent ride, and perhaps ok for straight line performance given how soft the rear spring are.

Any insights as to what might work best or be a jack of all trades/master of none?

 

Your last option is by far the best, and would be head and shoulders above the rest and the only thing I would consider. 350lb springs on the front are way too light, that is a drag racing rate. The Stranos I think are 550lb. Your last option set up is similar to mine and it works very well.

The understeer is from two things, a wide R compound rear tire with a narrower hard street compound on the front. Though this could be counter acted a little by adjusting the rear sway bar as stiff as you can, plus you have poly bushings which will make the rear less flexible and break out sooner. I think that might help balance the tire difference and a little throttle will help induce a little car rotation as well.

It should be a pretty good set up, not perfect, but pretty good.

 

I should have mentioned that autos are far from optimal for handling, but that 4200rpm stall will make balanced corning and throttle steering next to impossible. I have tried to autocross a few peoples stalled cars, and when it flashes mid corner on the exit, it can be a hand full.

 

I can get 550s on the Viking... and then I'd probably grab some BMR rear springs which are 160s... I just don't know how the Vikings react vs Koni. Pricewise, they are about the same.

And yes, the stall is not good for AutoX. Really, I want it to handle on the street decently and still blast the 1/4 well. Which is why the Vikings are nice.

 

I do not think the Vikings are anything more than an adjustable drag shock from my understanding. Koni's SA/DAs are the best out there without stepping into an all out race shock like a Penske, Ohlin type shock. I must admit the KWs are interesting and I am considering changing to them, but they are more again.

 

I looked at the KWs... at $2400ish they are quite a lot. But they would be nice and have total adjustability in height and rebound/compression... and even spring rates with an easy swap of Swift linear springs in there.

 

I have this with stock sway bars (and no intention to change that). My driving is pretty much like you describe yours to be, too. Do I wish it sat lower? Yes. Do I think it's a great compromise for what I do with the car? Yes

Empirically, I cut consistent 1.9 60's with that setup on all-season tires (along with SFC and LCA/brackets) when I had just a lid/muffler.

On back roads, my tires are the weak link as they howl when pushed (but the car itself feels confident).

 

That's why I tossed the SLP package on there. The downside is the springs don't always sit level... Sigh

 

I rolled the dice on this one and thus far am ok with the way it looks. Only at some angles do I feel as though it has that reverse rake the SLP springs get. I am very happy with its function over form, though. If you can get over that then I am willing to bet you'll be completely satisfied with their performance.

With that said, my second choice would easily be Strano springs while sticking with the SLP-spec Bilsteins (only because they always seem cheaper than the regular Bilstein HD's).

 

Based on what you wrote in your first post, I'm going to say a definite NO to the KWs. They are definitely more of a road racing type of shock, but they are by no means the best, nor are they the most friendly in terms of NVH, at least not on a Viper. They are OE on the 2008-2010 ACR Vipers, but are not very well liked...the ride tends to be harsh, and the adjustments don't seem to help at all. FWIW, the Viper guys that really want a nice shock usually step up to a set of something like Penske, MCS, or Moton, but we're talking ~$5,000+ for something like that.

The adjustability sounds great on paper, but honestly, you'll likely find a setting you like and never touch it again. This type of setup really only benefits guys that are going to be trying to wring every last bit of performance out of the car at an Auto-X/RR event...that's where the ability to corner weight a car will really shine.

Given the options, I vote for Strano...it's what I ended up with on my car. I originally had Ground Control adjustable perches on Strano revalved Bilsteins up front with Bilstein HDs out back (400 lb/in springs up front, 125 lb/in springs out back)...this setup was pretty good, but didn't feel quite as well controlled as the Strano spec'd springs and Koni shocks.

They aren't exactly ideal for the drag strip, but I'd rather have a nice shock for the street than run drag shocks at all times.

 

That's solid advice.

One thing I have seen is folks cut 1.5x with Strano/Konis. So, they are definitely decent in a straight line, but they excel in terms of overall handling/ride. And they lower the car nicely, but not too much (I hope). Sam keeps the rear springs pretty soft and with the Konis set to full soft, I can see how weight could transfer on a launch.

 

A 1.47 60ft on Hoosier QTPs with an M6 on Koni SAs. The fronts will likely never lift, but the rears get shocked pretty hard.

 

That pretty much settles it then. lol

 

Keep in mind that the single adjustment you have available is rebound, not compression, so setting them to full soft won't have any impact on the shock's resistance to compression.

 

You set yours on full soft in the front and rears whatever, right?

How do you launch exactly? Just curious.

 

Fronts were full soft, rears 2 clicks from full soft. That was 6500 rpm straight lift off the clutch, not a side step.

Managed a 10.78@129 on that run.

 

I know someone who cut 1.5s with his M6 Fbody on Koni 3/4 and stranos.....It's a decent enough all around setup.

 

Cool, thanks. I've got fronts on full soft, swaybar detached, and rears at full soft I think too (I was messing with them and never changed them back, but as I've read they don't matter that much in launching)..best I've cut is 1.76 I believe, full weight car + me = 3850 or so after front wheels + bumper support, but can't get them consistent. So many people do things different while launching..so far fast slip has worked the best for me. Meh..

 

I did not mention, but do remove the front sway bar for drag strip days.

 

So, I was waiting for the Koni sale to come back and here it is...

But now I'm looking at the Viking full-coilover setup from either MWC or UMI with something like the 550/150 spring rate package. Going full coilover is appealing because I have total control over the suspension adjustment with full rebound and compression as well as ride height adjustability.

Pricing-wise, very close.

Performance-wise, I still don't know how Viking will do with those types of spring rates and whether the car will handle well. I know I can adjust the springs and it'll be great for straight-line performance.