C5 Conversion Bracket
C5 Conversion Bracket I have been looking at all the info on brake conversions and have been asking why would I want the C5 calipers when they are both PBR, 2 piston, without any real-world benefit. In reading I discovered that indeed the caliper is nothing special (a little better), but people are putting the larger rotors from Y-cars on F-cars.
So my question. Does anyone have a picture of a bracket to relocate the caliper further outboard to accomodate the larger C5 rotors that does not require cutting the lower caliper attachment off the F-car knuckle? I understand LG sells these brackets for $400/pair. Understandably they need to make money, but does anyone have a pic of these? I can't see how it can done without mounting the caliper at an odd angle.
Thanks,
Brian
So my question. Does anyone have a picture of a bracket to relocate the caliper further outboard to accomodate the larger C5 rotors that does not require cutting the lower caliper attachment off the F-car knuckle? I understand LG sells these brackets for $400/pair. Understandably they need to make money, but does anyone have a pic of these? I can't see how it can done without mounting the caliper at an odd angle.
Thanks,
Brian
here are some pics from when I did the LG C5 upgrade. I got the brackets for 200 used,but never installed, the rotors were 95.00 for the pair off of ebay and I added a set of Hawk HP+ pads and the car stops great.
Thanks for posting these, very good pics. Kinda thought they would use the spindle bolts also, a little scary using the caliper attachment and cantelivering it.
Anyway, these would not be that difficult to machine, I'm not sure why they cost so much.
Brian
Anyway, these would not be that difficult to machine, I'm not sure why they cost so much.
Brian
They are very secure, the machineing in the brackets locks into the stock mounts. they stayed in place without any bolts during assembly. It took a bit of time to see how they fit, as they came with no directions. what is nice is that I can pull them off and go back to stock if I want to run 15in draglites at the strip. no cutting. Bobs brackets required the stck mounts to be cut off.
Other posts were saying $400 for just the brackets... that is why I thought that was kinda steep. I'm not saying that they would be that easy to make, but once you have CNC mill set up you can crank them out nearly free, I would think.
Brian
Brian
I prototyped this setup ... the first car with them.
Ever tried to book time on a CNC machine?
Ever bought T6 aluminum bar stock?
If it were cheap, why doesn't everyone do it?
FYI ... An F-Bod caliper is very prone to spread once they are heated under heavy braking conditions. T2 car owners have to change them after every race.
The C5 calipers are pressure cast and have structural ribbing to increase rigidity. The pistons are billet and smaller. Also, the C5 caliper is a bit wider where the rotor runs because the C5 rotor is thicker than the F-Body rotor.
As far as the way the bracket mounts, it is in direct line with where the stock caliper mounts. Brackets that mount behind the hub are actually canti-levered
Hope that clears up some misconceptions.
Ever tried to book time on a CNC machine?
Ever bought T6 aluminum bar stock?
If it were cheap, why doesn't everyone do it?
FYI ... An F-Bod caliper is very prone to spread once they are heated under heavy braking conditions. T2 car owners have to change them after every race.
The C5 calipers are pressure cast and have structural ribbing to increase rigidity. The pistons are billet and smaller. Also, the C5 caliper is a bit wider where the rotor runs because the C5 rotor is thicker than the F-Body rotor.
As far as the way the bracket mounts, it is in direct line with where the stock caliper mounts. Brackets that mount behind the hub are actually canti-levered
Hope that clears up some misconceptions.
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I was not aware of the issues with the caliper rigidity with the F-car caliper. Thanks for that info.
And I don't know what time on a CNC cost. I used to work at a machine shop with this equipment, but I never purchased material or time, I know they used to charge a flat rate for time whether it was CNC or manually machined. Anyway, didn't know that was T6 either, from the picture in this post I can't tell the material or even whether it is painted, black oxide or what. I assumed it was just plain steel.
Thanks for all the info guys. I hate reinventing the wheel, but I can't justify $400 to my wife, so that means I have to make my own if I want it.
Brian
And I don't know what time on a CNC cost. I used to work at a machine shop with this equipment, but I never purchased material or time, I know they used to charge a flat rate for time whether it was CNC or manually machined. Anyway, didn't know that was T6 either, from the picture in this post I can't tell the material or even whether it is painted, black oxide or what. I assumed it was just plain steel.
Thanks for all the info guys. I hate reinventing the wheel, but I can't justify $400 to my wife, so that means I have to make my own if I want it.
Brian
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On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 196
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Originally Posted by holsingerjm
$400.00 for these brackets? I don't know where you got that from. I just bought a set last week for $250.00. I should get them tomorrow.
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Albany, GA (IL Resident)
Originally Posted by 4mula1
Can you let us know where you found them for at that price?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,190
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Ever tried to book time on a CNC machine?
Ever bought T6 aluminum bar stock?
You are talking less than $200 to make them minus development cost. And T6 is just a heat treatment not the actual type of aluminum. Using 6061-t6 or 7075 (a lot stronger) you are talking $60-70 at most for material and this is only buying a few feet at a time. If you buy in bulk the price would be a lot cheaper. As far a the cnc time a couple hours each tops, since they are easy. Of course you have the cost of the design, cnc program, tooling. These costs adds up quick for very small production runs like these brackets.
Gary
Ever bought T6 aluminum bar stock?
You are talking less than $200 to make them minus development cost. And T6 is just a heat treatment not the actual type of aluminum. Using 6061-t6 or 7075 (a lot stronger) you are talking $60-70 at most for material and this is only buying a few feet at a time. If you buy in bulk the price would be a lot cheaper. As far a the cnc time a couple hours each tops, since they are easy. Of course you have the cost of the design, cnc program, tooling. These costs adds up quick for very small production runs like these brackets.
Gary
I have a set of brackets from bob bishop. They were less than $300 and way beefier than the LG brackets. I run 305 Hoosiers on open tracks with them and love them. The brakes have lasted 2-3 times longer than my LS-1 pads.
I have set out to make my own conversion bracket, and have come to a very simple solution. So simple I don't understand what the difficulty is. What I am proposing is using a 0.25" steel plate to relocate the caliper using the fasteners for the original caliper. Thread the plate and add a jam nut to the back (or weld on). The measured difference between the C5 and F-car rotor is about 0.21" instead of 0.25" though, but the caliper floats and this isn't that much of a difference.
The steel would seem to have sufficient strength as long as the fasteners don't loosen.
Anyone see any flaws in my logic here?
Thanks,
Brian
The steel would seem to have sufficient strength as long as the fasteners don't loosen.
Anyone see any flaws in my logic here?
Thanks,
Brian
