Front End Alignment Specs Needed
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Front End Alignment Specs Needed Tomorrow morning I'm taking the TA to a shop that is going to align it to my specs instead of just locking things down when it's "in range." This is my daily driver and I spend most of my time on the highway. I'm lowered 1.2" as well.
What angles should I go with regarding toe in, camber and caster?
What angles should I go with regarding toe in, camber and caster?
ive run these specs for the last 5 or so years:
1/16 toe in
+4.5 caster left
+4.7 L - +5.0 caster right (depending on how bad your roads crown)
-0.7 camber
1/16 toe in
+4.5 caster left
+4.7 L - +5.0 caster right (depending on how bad your roads crown)
-0.7 camber
Last edited by RedDeadG8; Jan 20, 2014 at 07:06 AM.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
From: Bridgewater, Ma
I say this every time there is one of these thread.
The most you can go negative on the street for camber is this
-1.5 camber
4.5-5 caster
0 toe
Any more and you are dipping your toes in race only territory.
The most you can go negative on the street for camber is this
-1.5 camber
4.5-5 caster
0 toe
Any more and you are dipping your toes in race only territory.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Thanks ... this is exactly what I'm looking for. I haven't like the last two alignments in the last year.
Firestone:
L R
Camber:-0.7 -0.5
Caster: 5.5 5.1
Toe: -0.03 -0.05
And Kauffman: Which was what I'm riding with now.
Camber: 0 0.3
Caster: 5.9 5.1
Toe: -0.01 -0.02
Firestone:
L R
Camber:-0.7 -0.5
Caster: 5.5 5.1
Toe: -0.03 -0.05
And Kauffman: Which was what I'm riding with now.
Camber: 0 0.3
Caster: 5.9 5.1
Toe: -0.01 -0.02
Who's the "numb-nutz' that dials in more caster on the left side of your car?? You run more caster on the passenger side, to compensate for "road crown", so the car will run straight on most roads.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
I guess they thought I'd be driving around town in reverse.
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Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Got the alignment done today. What a difference .... my steering wheel was actually easier to turn when leaving the shop. Probably because the caster was so jacked up.
I was actually there for 4 hours. The tech (owner) set, checked ....etc... making sure that the angles were set to my specs. The caster was at 6.2° L and 5.5° on the right when I took the car to him
Now it's 5.5° R and 5.2° L. The camber is -0.6 on each side and total toe IN is .05.
I couldn't be happier.
I was actually there for 4 hours. The tech (owner) set, checked ....etc... making sure that the angles were set to my specs. The caster was at 6.2° L and 5.5° on the right when I took the car to him
Now it's 5.5° R and 5.2° L. The camber is -0.6 on each side and total toe IN is .05.
I couldn't be happier.
Last edited by TA_Freak; Jan 27, 2014 at 10:14 PM.
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Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
they basically don't. the only thing people here tend to do different is have a little more negative camber (tires tilt inward from top to bottom) the thought being it helps cornering. the oem spec is 0° to +0.5° which is the top of the tire tilts outward, because whenever the suspension travels upward the tires gain negative camber so under normal driving you basically have a tire riding flat on the road which is best especially on the highway. whenever you turn the wheel your wheels gain some negative camber anyway. whether setting camber negative to begin really helps at only a 1/2 degree i don't know, i haven't done it so i can't speak from personal experience.
if you're interested in wheel alignment, do a google on "caster camber toe".
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
the most important thing especially on the f-body having a 275 width tire is getting the settings even left to right, known as cross-caster=0° and cross-camber=0°.
I would like to see a new car off the showroom floor have the alignment checked and see if they come with more positive caster on the right side to compensate for road crown. i think that's completely stupid to assume all roads slope to the right, they don't. and when they don't, or you find a great road that's flat then what?
with toe settings, on rear wheel drive cars you go positive toe (pointing inwards) because rear wheel drive pushing the car tends to make the front wheels go negative tow. with front wheel drive cars pulling the car the fronts tend to gain positive toe so they get set closer to 0° if not slightly negative. the ideal is to have 0° toe both tires pointing directly straight for best tire wear and fuel economy. positive toe helps with high speed stability and can help take up some slop in the steering rack and can potentially make steering feel tighter. positive toe also causes under-steer. negative toe (pointing outwards) can make the car squirly, eager to want to turn, and cause over-steer. more positive caster (like positive toe) helps make the want to go straight at speed and also will make the steering wheel want to return to center after a turn on it's own and make the steering feel heavy when turning the wheel away from straight.
they basically don't. the only thing people here tend to do different is have a little more negative camber (tires tilt inward from top to bottom) the thought being it helps cornering. the oem spec is 0° to +0.5° which is the top of the tire tilts outward, because whenever the suspension travels upward the tires gain negative camber so under normal driving you basically have a tire riding flat on the road which is best especially on the highway. whenever you turn the wheel your wheels gain some negative camber anyway. whether setting camber negative to begin really helps at only a 1/2 degree i don't know, i haven't done it so i can't speak from personal experience.
if you're interested in wheel alignment, do a google on "caster camber toe".
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
the most important thing especially on the f-body having a 275 width tire is getting the settings even left to right, known as cross-caster=0° and cross-camber=0°.
I would like to see a new car off the showroom floor have the alignment checked and see if they come with more positive caster on the right side to compensate for road crown. i think that's completely stupid to assume all roads slope to the right, they don't. and when they don't, or you find a great road that's flat then what?
with toe settings, on rear wheel drive cars you go positive toe (pointing inwards) because rear wheel drive pushing the car tends to make the front wheels go negative tow. with front wheel drive cars pulling the car the fronts tend to gain positive toe so they get set closer to 0° if not slightly negative. the ideal is to have 0° toe both tires pointing directly straight for best tire wear and fuel economy. positive toe helps with high speed stability and can help take up some slop in the steering rack and can potentially make steering feel tighter. positive toe also causes under-steer. negative toe (pointing outwards) can make the car squirly, eager to want to turn, and cause over-steer. more positive caster (like positive toe) helps make the want to go straight at speed and also will make the steering wheel want to return to center after a turn on it's own and make the steering feel heavy when turning the wheel away from straight.
if you're interested in wheel alignment, do a google on "caster camber toe".
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
the most important thing especially on the f-body having a 275 width tire is getting the settings even left to right, known as cross-caster=0° and cross-camber=0°.
I would like to see a new car off the showroom floor have the alignment checked and see if they come with more positive caster on the right side to compensate for road crown. i think that's completely stupid to assume all roads slope to the right, they don't. and when they don't, or you find a great road that's flat then what?
with toe settings, on rear wheel drive cars you go positive toe (pointing inwards) because rear wheel drive pushing the car tends to make the front wheels go negative tow. with front wheel drive cars pulling the car the fronts tend to gain positive toe so they get set closer to 0° if not slightly negative. the ideal is to have 0° toe both tires pointing directly straight for best tire wear and fuel economy. positive toe helps with high speed stability and can help take up some slop in the steering rack and can potentially make steering feel tighter. positive toe also causes under-steer. negative toe (pointing outwards) can make the car squirly, eager to want to turn, and cause over-steer. more positive caster (like positive toe) helps make the want to go straight at speed and also will make the steering wheel want to return to center after a turn on it's own and make the steering feel heavy when turning the wheel away from straight.
