suspension problem
suspension problem So I installed new Strano Springs and Koni SRT.T(front and rear)/ ball joints uppers and lowers /and upper control arm bushings cause they were dry rotted out. I went to the tire place to get and alignment done and of course it was out my before measurements were
Left camber -2.0 ,caster 5.1 ,toe 1.51
Right camber -2.9 ,caster 4.8 ,toe 1.52
Now its
Left camber -0.6 ,caster 5.8 ,toe 0.05
Right camber -1.2 ,caster 5.9 ,toe 0.03
I was given the print out and theirs more red than green on it.... He had me come in and look under the car and watch him push the lower control arms all the way out until they would go no further thus leaving me with the current measurements ......so having said all this what can I do to fix this problem?
Left camber -2.0 ,caster 5.1 ,toe 1.51
Right camber -2.9 ,caster 4.8 ,toe 1.52
Now its
Left camber -0.6 ,caster 5.8 ,toe 0.05
Right camber -1.2 ,caster 5.9 ,toe 0.03
I was given the print out and theirs more red than green on it.... He had me come in and look under the car and watch him push the lower control arms all the way out until they would go no further thus leaving me with the current measurements ......so having said all this what can I do to fix this problem?
You want the camber the same on both sides, first of all. And in your case, the left side is OK, but the right side is too much negative (unless you're auto-xing it, then right is good, and the left should match it.) Your caster is good as is, and the toe isn't too bad, but really should be 0.02*, equal on both sides.
I disagree.....unless you're entering competition events with the car, as well as using it as a daily driver, that much camber will take out the inside edges of the tires prematurely. Secondly, you want the tires running "straight" when the car is driving down the road. The tires have rolling resistance, which causes them to "toe out" when in motion. That is why in a static position, like on an alignment rack, you want a little "toe-in"....
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^ Negative camber does not and will never wear tires. Toe angle does. A tire with 0 camber and alot of toe out WILL wear the inside edges of the tires. I've seen 28,000 miles out of a front set of KDW's with -1.8 camber, 5.2 caster, and -.02 toe in.
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Verdad Gallardo Well it can, but it takes quite a while with a lot of -camber, compared too much "toe" which can happed in a very short amount of driving. I do have to agree about the "toe" settings, I've trashed a almost new front tire within a couple hundred miles with the "toe" out of adjustment before.
Moving the lower A-arm outward (front slot) increases negative camber. The rear vertical slot adjust caster.
What you want is to move the front slot inward for less/or no negative camber.
What you want is to move the front slot inward for less/or no negative camber.
The rear control arm position is slotted as well to aid in both caster and camber adjustment. It is a balance between the 2 positions that gives proper camber and caster. Trying to adjust camber without adjusting both is nearly impossible. This picture shows how much adjustment the factory k-member has for lower control arm adjustment. I would find it hard to believe that they can't get it dialed in if they are using both sets of adjustments properly.
I used to think that too, but the older I get, the more I see that the shops are trying to replace skilled technicians with simpletons who can do no more than "get it in the green", of a newer alignment machine. It's sad....
ME TOO!!!
I work part time, driving a delivery truck for Advance Auto parts, and every time I walk through a dealer's shop, on my way to make a delivery at the parts counter, I walk past their 4 post lift/alignment racks and just drool....
At least if I did it myself, and it was screwed up THEN, I'd have nobody to blame but myself!!
I work part time, driving a delivery truck for Advance Auto parts, and every time I walk through a dealer's shop, on my way to make a delivery at the parts counter, I walk past their 4 post lift/alignment racks and just drool....
At least if I did it myself, and it was screwed up THEN, I'd have nobody to blame but myself!!
I would tell you what numbers I use, but all the "boy racers" here like to run huge amounts of negative camber, so they laugh at me. Let me say this....just because you lowered the car, it doesn't mean that the desired settings change. HOWEVER, when you lower the car, you use up some of the available adjustment, so on occasion, it's a little trickier getting it set right.