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suspension problem

Old 03-12-2014, 01:38 AM
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Default suspension problem

So I installed new Strano Springs and Koni SRT.T(front and rear)/ ball joints uppers and lowers /and upper control arm bushings cause they were dry rotted out. I went to the tire place to get and alignment done and of course it was out my before measurements were

Left camber -2.0 ,caster 5.1 ,toe 1.51
Right camber -2.9 ,caster 4.8 ,toe 1.52

Now its

Left camber -0.6 ,caster 5.8 ,toe 0.05
Right camber -1.2 ,caster 5.9 ,toe 0.03

I was given the print out and theirs more red than green on it.... He had me come in and look under the car and watch him push the lower control arms all the way out until they would go no further thus leaving me with the current measurements ......so having said all this what can I do to fix this problem?
Old 03-12-2014, 02:09 PM
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what did you ask for?

Whether it was intentional or not, that's closer to a performance alignment than factory spec
Old 03-12-2014, 04:59 PM
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just a standard alignment I wasnt aware that you could choose a particular alignment
Old 03-12-2014, 05:27 PM
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To fix the problem, I'd take it to a better shop, one that'll take the time to do it right and get it dialed in.
Old 03-13-2014, 09:04 AM
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You want the camber the same on both sides, first of all. And in your case, the left side is OK, but the right side is too much negative (unless you're auto-xing it, then right is good, and the left should match it.) Your caster is good as is, and the toe isn't too bad, but really should be 0.02*, equal on both sides.
Old 03-13-2014, 09:13 AM
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Shoot for this:

-1.5 camber
4.5 to 5 caster
0 toe
Old 03-13-2014, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
Shoot for this:

-1.5 camber
4.5 to 5 caster
0 toe
I disagree.....unless you're entering competition events with the car, as well as using it as a daily driver, that much camber will take out the inside edges of the tires prematurely. Secondly, you want the tires running "straight" when the car is driving down the road. The tires have rolling resistance, which causes them to "toe out" when in motion. That is why in a static position, like on an alignment rack, you want a little "toe-in"....
Old 03-14-2014, 05:12 AM
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^ Negative camber does not and will never wear tires. Toe angle does. A tire with 0 camber and alot of toe out WILL wear the inside edges of the tires. I've seen 28,000 miles out of a front set of KDW's with -1.8 camber, 5.2 caster, and -.02 toe in.
Old 03-14-2014, 02:03 PM
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Well it can, but it takes quite a while with a lot of -camber, compared too much "toe" which can happed in a very short amount of driving. I do have to agree about the "toe" settings, I've trashed a almost new front tire within a couple hundred miles with the "toe" out of adjustment before.
Old 03-18-2014, 01:51 AM
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......Well how do you make the wheel straight if you can no longer be move the lower A-arm outward?
Old 03-18-2014, 06:07 PM
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Moving the lower A-arm outward (front slot) increases negative camber. The rear vertical slot adjust caster.
What you want is to move the front slot inward for less/or no negative camber.
Old 03-19-2014, 03:31 PM
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so.....theirs nothing i need to do but take it to better ppl ....
Old 03-19-2014, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by xenergyx
so.....theirs nothing i need to do but take it to better ppl ....
bingo!!
Old 03-19-2014, 04:19 PM
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The rear control arm position is slotted as well to aid in both caster and camber adjustment. It is a balance between the 2 positions that gives proper camber and caster. Trying to adjust camber without adjusting both is nearly impossible. This picture shows how much adjustment the factory k-member has for lower control arm adjustment. I would find it hard to believe that they can't get it dialed in if they are using both sets of adjustments properly.

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Old 03-20-2014, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by BMR Tech2
.... I would find it hard to believe that they can't get it dialed in if they are using both sets of adjustments properly.
I used to think that too, but the older I get, the more I see that the shops are trying to replace skilled technicians with simpletons who can do no more than "get it in the green", of a newer alignment machine. It's sad....
Old 03-20-2014, 09:31 AM
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I wish I could do it myself -_- i do everything else it seems
Old 03-21-2014, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by xenergyx
I wish I could do it myself -_- i do everything else it seems
ME TOO!!!




I work part time, driving a delivery truck for Advance Auto parts, and every time I walk through a dealer's shop, on my way to make a delivery at the parts counter, I walk past their 4 post lift/alignment racks and just drool....



At least if I did it myself, and it was screwed up THEN, I'd have nobody to blame but myself!!
Old 03-21-2014, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I used to think that too, but the older I get, the more I see that the shops are trying to replace skilled technicians with simpletons who can do no more than "get it in the green", of a newer alignment machine. It's sad....
Sad, but very true!
Old 03-24-2014, 02:32 PM
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so what exactly is it supposed to be since its lowered ?
Old 03-24-2014, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by xenergyx
so what exactly is it supposed to be since its lowered ?
I would tell you what numbers I use, but all the "boy racers" here like to run huge amounts of negative camber, so they laugh at me. Let me say this....just because you lowered the car, it doesn't mean that the desired settings change. HOWEVER, when you lower the car, you use up some of the available adjustment, so on occasion, it's a little trickier getting it set right.

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