High speed braking problem...
High speed braking problem... Hey guys I installed new calipers, pads and rotors last year and never had an issues. Bled the whole brake system as well.
This spring I lowered the car and it seems like after that, if I am going around 70 MPH and hit the brakes hard, the pedal somewhat feels like its pushing back at me for a sec and then it starts to brake.
At normal speeds I never have a single issue
I am wondering if possibly my brake booster is going? I still have to take off the wheels and check everything and make sure none of my brake lines are somehow kinked. I also notice that my rotors in the front have divided colors right in the middle of them. One ring is like a very very faint tint of blue on each rotor? I have never noticed this before.
Getting the driver side strut out can be hard because of the torx bit under the master cylinder. Maybe when I was messing with the master cylinder a little bit to clear myself some room I could've messed up the seal behind there that goes into the brake booster?
This spring I lowered the car and it seems like after that, if I am going around 70 MPH and hit the brakes hard, the pedal somewhat feels like its pushing back at me for a sec and then it starts to brake.
At normal speeds I never have a single issue
I am wondering if possibly my brake booster is going? I still have to take off the wheels and check everything and make sure none of my brake lines are somehow kinked. I also notice that my rotors in the front have divided colors right in the middle of them. One ring is like a very very faint tint of blue on each rotor? I have never noticed this before.
Getting the driver side strut out can be hard because of the torx bit under the master cylinder. Maybe when I was messing with the master cylinder a little bit to clear myself some room I could've messed up the seal behind there that goes into the brake booster?
Any chance you have an ABS INOP light on? I had an ABS sensor that was separated from the hub and had the same issue....pedal eventually engaged however there was a delay in doing so.
Replaced the hub (which fixed the ABS issue) and the problem went away.
Replaced the hub (which fixed the ABS issue) and the problem went away.
My abs inop is not on but I did have that front left abs wire break in the fall and I soldered it back together so could it be that I might need to change that line if it's really sensitive?
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New hub assembly too as of the fall. I changed that bc the light was on after the car wasnt in my hands for a while,that didn't fix the light. Soldered the abs wire where I found a break somewhere. Light turned off. But it does feel abs related but no light turns on. Is that wire very sensitive? Start by replacing with a new one?
Last edited by SteveWs6; Apr 3, 2014 at 02:12 PM.
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When you are hitting the brakes hard.. do you mean you are like JAMMING on the brakes? If this is the case, I've also had this problem at autox events. The only conclusion I could find is the ABS likes to freak out when you JAM on the brakes and fight you back... lead to me hitting a few stop boxes and earning me some DNFs. I've heard some people refer to it as "ice mode"
The best way I found to counter the problem was squeezing the brakes instead of slamming on them.. which is something they teach you in various performance driving schools.
The best way I found to counter the problem was squeezing the brakes instead of slamming on them.. which is something they teach you in various performance driving schools.
Have you had the ABS system scanned? Advanced Auto can scan for ABS codes for free... I am not certain if you will get a dash light for any and all ABS codes...
Be sure to inspect all your hard and soft lines, I upgraded my soft lines to stainless steel braided Goodridge lines...
Also, did you follow Hawk's burnishing process?
"1. After installing new brake pads, make 6-to-10 stops from approximately 30-35 MPH applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2-to-3 hard stops from approximately 40-45 MPH.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow at least 15 minutes for the brake system to cool down."
Be sure to inspect all your hard and soft lines, I upgraded my soft lines to stainless steel braided Goodridge lines...
Also, did you follow Hawk's burnishing process?
"1. After installing new brake pads, make 6-to-10 stops from approximately 30-35 MPH applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2-to-3 hard stops from approximately 40-45 MPH.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow at least 15 minutes for the brake system to cool down."
Last edited by libertyforall1776; Apr 3, 2014 at 07:12 PM.
I can check for an ABS code tonight that might not be popping up on the dash. When I hit the brakes hard I normally don't jam on them but sometimes when you need to stop, you NEED to stop. I will still have to check all my lines, the weather has been terrible this week unfortunately. And yes I broke in the pads as instructed by Hawk.
So I'm thinking i'll start by scanning for ABS codes and probably changing the ABS wire that goes to the front left hub assembly, and inspect the brake lines down there and go from there
So I'm thinking i'll start by scanning for ABS codes and probably changing the ABS wire that goes to the front left hub assembly, and inspect the brake lines down there and go from there
I don't know maybe its the fact that the 285/40/18 in the rear and 275/40/17 in the front and it's messing with the ABS?
The diameter is 25.7" in the front and 27" in the rear. Is that enough to mess with the ABS like that?
The day I put the 285/40/18's in the rear the car was seized from me for something I didn't do. It's a long story. So I don't know if it would've been like it ever since that day or if it's something after that fact, 7 months later when I finally got the car back and able to drive it again and lowered it and stuff.......
Honestly i've been thinking of getting a new set of wheels all around and might just go 17's all around for better handling and to avoid stupid headaches like this
The diameter is 25.7" in the front and 27" in the rear. Is that enough to mess with the ABS like that?
The day I put the 285/40/18's in the rear the car was seized from me for something I didn't do. It's a long story. So I don't know if it would've been like it ever since that day or if it's something after that fact, 7 months later when I finally got the car back and able to drive it again and lowered it and stuff.......
Honestly i've been thinking of getting a new set of wheels all around and might just go 17's all around for better handling and to avoid stupid headaches like this
Mine seems to be doing the same thing..almost like fighting me when i stop hard and fast..I sometimes have to let up on the brakes and re apply pressure...Would pulling the fuse solve this?
I have the same fighting problem. I'm on my stock winter wheels and tires right now I usually pump the breaks and it works fine. But what ever it is, just is't right.
I bracket race and after every pass, I feel it
I bracket race and after every pass, I feel it