blue09rocket

Got around to changing all 4 of my brakes and rotors, fronts weren't too bad got to the rear and as suspected, I cant get the rotor off, WTF?? The Ebrake is not on, after I get all the lugs and the rotor bracket and pads off, I pull hard as hell, it moves about a millimeter, no more, I even smacked the face of the rotor between the lug bolts to no avail. Do I need to get a little "excited" with the hammer on the backside of the rotor? Im not too sure at all if the Ebrake needs adjusted or how. I had a similar issue with my 96 TA when I changed the rear brakes, finally got them off but cannot for the life of me remembered how I did it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

edit - oh and I cant move the rotor at all, I take this to being as I have the vehicle in park, don't know if that's part of the issue or not, but thought id throw it out there.

metalmilitia606

iTrader: (8)

Pretty sure you can just beat them off.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

when I did mine, my driver rear came off easy, but the passenger rear was frozen to the hub and had to be beat off with a 3lb. hammer, I was doing new rotors so I didn't care if the rotor was damaged by the hammer. Be sure to wire brush the rust off the hub before installing the new rotor. this issue also can show up when removing the wheels (if using stock wheels), their center bore is a tight fit and the rust build up will get the wheel stuck.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

be careful beating the rear rotor off, you are likely to damage the parking brake shoe and the backing plate it attaches to. if you rip the hold down clip off the tin backing plate then you're looking at pulling the axle to fix it. it's only 1 7mm machine screw holding one side of the parking brake shoe to the backing plate.
what happens is the parking shoe wears a grove inside the rotor drum and sits inside it keeping you from getting the rotor off. rust and dirt make the shoe stick and not retract all the way. make sure the lever on the inside of the backing plate where the parking brake cable attaches to is all the way to one side. then it's a matter of wiggling the rotor to get it off the shoe.

Cajun ELESS-ONE

just hammer it off. changed a friend of mines on his trans am. some good hits to break the rust loose and they came off

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If you want a gentler way, you can put a 2X4 across the wheel studs and use two C clamps on either end to pull the back of the rotor towards the 2X4. Just slowly tighten them and it will pop off.

By chance, do you still have the factory rotor retainers still on one of the studs?

You will need to adjust the e-brake to the new rotors before you put the rear calipers back on, but they should be fine as-is for taking the old rotor off.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I recommend borrowing the 3 jaw puller tool from autozone. I used this to get my rotors off. It pushes against the center of the hub while the 3 jaw pieces grab the outside of the rotor. You use a ratchet to turn the middle bolt and slowly pull the rotor off.

I will always use this tool over the big hammer now days.

blue09rocket

wssix99, how do you adjust the parking brake?, Im a newbie when it comes to brakes, as far as the retainers Ill have to check tomorrow(raining right now) if there is one or some, Ill make sure to Gibbs slap myself LOL

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You can get to the procedure by following my links in this thread: Rear Disc brakes E-Brake adjustment

I'm happy to answer any questions as you take a look. This type of brake and adjustment is a little uncommon.

blue09rocket

thanks to all who replied, my final solution was, of course, a couple of whacks with a 4 lb hammer. Thanks again.