IndyRPM_TransAm

iTrader: (1)

Here is the first time at the track with the ridetech coilovers. I haven't had much time to dial them in other than this day, this is a no prep track located in Morocco, IN. The majority of these runs were set at full soft front and the rear ranged from 2/3 hard to everything in between. All and all, these coilovers for street/strip use are a dream, they drive like a tame very nice street car when needed and they appear to work on the track as well. I definitely need more adjustment to get my short track times down, these passes ranged from 1.58 60' to 1.66 60' for most runs. I really just wanted to go out and have fun so I didn't put as much thought and attention into fine tuning as I would have liked. Check out the video and give me your thoughts!

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

love watching your video , what tires are you using and what rpm to launch , do you have a 2 step and do you have line lock

IndyRPM_TransAm

iTrader: (1)

I was running 26x11.50x15 MT ET Street Bias plys this day, My launches ranged from 4500-7000 throughout the day, I have a Lingenfelter LNC-2000 2 step, and no Line lock yet! Thank you for the comment!

Spd-Kilz

iTrader: (35)

Loved watching those videos Tyler. How much RWHP did your car put down?

IndyRPM_TransAm

iTrader: (1)

408whp / 390 tq

Killer_Z

iTrader: (1)

bump for updates? how u liking em? now that you got some more miles on em.

JohnR

iTrader: (1)

Another bump for update on the Ridetech shocks...

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Can't go wrong with a good set of Ridetech's or Viking's!

JD_AMG

Two very different, and very opposite shocks.

JohnR

iTrader: (1)

Please explain the differences between a Ridetech shock and a Viking?

Thanks,
John

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I'll be curious to see how JD answers this, but here's a couple quick answers:

*Ridetech are gas charged and Vikings are not
*ridetech shocks dyno charts look completely different.
*Ridetech upper mounts distribute the load vs a single point carrying the entire load.

Ridetech is basically a good handling suspension. I very seriously considered it when I was unhappy with the Vikings. Vikings are more of a drag shock that you can tighten up for the drive home. On a daily driver - much less road course racing - I felt like the Vikings did not control the car. And when you tighten them up they just go from soft and bouncy to harsh and bouncy.

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

When I was considering the various options for springs/shocks for my car, I explained that the car would not be used for auto-X, but rather weekend/track use. I went ahead and purchased the Viking coil overs because of the recommendations that were given by those that had them. Some discussion on the viking here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...coilovers.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...king-da-s.html

I got a great deal on my Viking double adj coil over kit with 350 lb and 150 lb springs during a black friday special. Part number VCF226-350 that comes with A206-350K for the front and two of the C213-R & 14DP150 for the rear.

What spring rates did you go with?

Is the Afco kit 20-600200T or the Ridetechs (both cost double of what I paid for the viking) simply a little less bouncy on the street than the Viking, with similar performance at the 1/4 mile track?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

On spring rates I ran 350/175, which should have been perfectly fine. When I originally got the viking kit, I was initially happy with it, but as time wore on, either it degraded quickly of my tolerance did. By the time I pulled the viking kit off, I was getting 4-6" of travel and routinely pegging the bump stops, unless I cranked the compression so tight it was ridiculous.

As to the "little less bouncy on the street" question -- It's not even the same ball park. The Ridetech kit, I have no direct experience. the AFCO kit, my car went from being to the point I didn't enjoy driving it to being a better ride quality than my wife's bone stock C6 vert. She was refusing to ride in the car with the vikings on it. After installing the AFCO kit, she went from, "WTF did you DO to this thing ?" to "WTF did you DO to this thing ?"

The car hooks better on the AFCO kit, and it launches better. I was able to compress the rear almost to the bump stops with horsepower on launch. This would then make the tires rub the inner fender. On the new kit, I transfer power to the ground better. i just have to loosen front rebound all the way to transfer weight to the back.

So here's the bottom line -- Vikings might be the right kit for you. If you're basically going to drive it to the track and back home, they're fine. I'm not trying to bash them at all. But they weren't the right kit for me, and it was expensive to learn the lesson. What I was responding to was "you can't go wrong with ridetech or viking" when they don't act the same at all.

I truly was not trying to be argumentative, and I hope the explanation helped

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Well I haven't had them on for long and they don't have many miles on them at all. They ride much better than the lowering springs that came with the car when I bought it. Seems like riding in a Cadillac compared to what I had before. So if you are able to transfer the power to the ground better, then it sounds like the Afco's are better than the Vikings even at the 1/4 mile track even.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Glad they're working for you!

JD_AMG

Basically what Darth_V8r said.
Ridetech are gas charged monotube shocks, same design as what sports cars/supercars/race cars(that turn) run. The gas charge keeps the oil from foaming (which you then lose dampening). The adjustment **** actually adjusts the piston which will change how the oil flows through it, very precise for tuning.
The Vikings are non-gas charged twin tube, this design is used in drag racing applications because you don't need the shock to dampen the spring well, you want the front to be relatively loose to transfer weight to the back of the car. And it doesn't need to be gas charged for dragracing because the shock isn't being worked hard at all or constantly moving up and down - however when it is worked hard then you can get fade... The adjustment **** does not adjust the piston, it just opens up a chamber on the side to control oil flow/resistance. Their goal was basically to build a double adjustable shock for as cheap as possible, and well, you end up with cheap results then too... Thats why you often see a price gap with them and other shocks, because the higher dollar shocks are a better design and use better internals.
Like comparing a stock 305 to a stock LS1, the 305 is a really cheap V8 (but its still a V8 right?) but the power/torque figures speak for themselves.

If you are strictly drag racing and don't care about ride or handling then vikings are fine as that is what they should be used for.
If your shocks are truly doing their job and dampening the spring there should be no bounce at all, basically ever. The car should also not feel floaty or disconnected either, that is another sign of lack of rebound control.
Have you ever driven a newer BMW before? Or a higher end sports car? You know how those ride, and how stable and planted they are? Good shocks can have a lowly Fbody feel like those.
For what you paid for the vikings you could buy Koni sports and run stock springs (which are not far off to the springs you bought) and have vastly better ride, feel and handling without hurting your launch assuming you are not chasing every last .01 second or trying to run 9 second 1/4 mile times.

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

Recently got Vikings for the front and I don't like them at all. I will go with a gas charged shock instead.

Nader_gmr

Sweet ride, like coilovers too, why no front swaybar? any clearance issue?