Something still wrong with the brakes....
Something still wrong with the brakes.... First off, car sat for 3 years as I blew the motor and finally put the new motor in. Calipers were off the car for about a year. Deleted my abs and went to sjm prop valve. Now my brake light stays on inside and here's the problem...
Long story short. I bled the system 4 times starting from farthest inward. When I drive the car the initial press of the brake does nothing. When I hit the brake again right after the car starts to break. Not like it should though. I have no leaking lines, the check valve is good and I want to narrow it down more before I play the guessing game and start buying parts.
Does a prop valve need to be bled? Otherwise I'm guessing it's the master or booster. Car is unsafe to drive right now so please give me some ideas or how to narrow it down
Long story short. I bled the system 4 times starting from farthest inward. When I drive the car the initial press of the brake does nothing. When I hit the brake again right after the car starts to break. Not like it should though. I have no leaking lines, the check valve is good and I want to narrow it down more before I play the guessing game and start buying parts.
Does a prop valve need to be bled? Otherwise I'm guessing it's the master or booster. Car is unsafe to drive right now so please give me some ideas or how to narrow it down
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, OK
The proportioning valve shouldn't need to be bled on it's own.
You can put a Mighty Vac on the booster. It'll take a while to pump it down, but it should hold vacuum once you get it there. If it doesn't, it's bad. Also, unbolt the master from the booster and slightly move the 2 apart. If you see any liquid, then the master is bad. Neither of these is definitive, rather a place to start. A master can bleed by internally as well.
You can put a Mighty Vac on the booster. It'll take a while to pump it down, but it should hold vacuum once you get it there. If it doesn't, it's bad. Also, unbolt the master from the booster and slightly move the 2 apart. If you see any liquid, then the master is bad. Neither of these is definitive, rather a place to start. A master can bleed by internally as well.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma City
If the car was unused for three years, it is probably the master cylinder. How did you bleed the brakes. If you let the pedal go all the way to the floor the master cylinder is probably leaking internally.
thats what i was thinking papatoy i just didnt want to go out buying parts and then find out thats not the problem. when i bled the brakes i went from passenger rear, driver rear, pass front and then driver front. and like i said ive done it 4 times already. thinking about maybe just buying a new master regardless and trying it. this is getting obnoxious these guessing games
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma City
Sometimes you can see the bubbles in the resevoir if you watch while someone pumps the brake. If you see bubbles then the master cylinder is leaking. Be sure to bench bleed the new one on a level surface before installing it or you won't be able to get all the air out. Most name brand master cylinders come with a bench bleeding kit.
So there's no bubbles, I unbolted the master and pulled it away from the booster and nothing leaked.... I'm wondering now if it really is vacuum bc of my cam or if it's tuning. Any other suggestions?
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