First time replacing shocks. What else to replace while they're out?
I agree with jmettee and corvett z07 regarding the order of the metal cup and the bump stop. I installed with the metal cup onto the top of the shock, then the bumpstop above that. I don't recall the order I used for the large washer, but it definitely is below the shock mount and isolator.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 23
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From: Glen Rock, PA
okay, so after getting this apart finally and looking at all the pieces this is how I am assembling mine. I am putting the cup on the top of the shock, followed by the shock bumper, then the cover, then washer, then top spring mount. everything seems to fit ok this way and I based it on the diameters of the holes on each of the parts. The one problem I do have is in reusing the lower spring perch. The original plastic piece on the bottom of the dish and Koni dish is holding it on the sides and won't let it sit on the bottom. Did you have this issue?
xny1989 had this same issue (read the last post in breaking upper ball joint for shock install thread, should be like the 15th one down from the top of the suspension and breaks thread.) He had to cut around 1/16" off the sides of the rubber spring seat to make it fit. We'll both probably be doing what xny1989 did to make it fit...
My question to you is that what in the heck did you do to break off the top nut off your old decarbons???
My question to you is that what in the heck did you do to break off the top nut off your old decarbons???
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Glen Rock, PA
xny1989 had this same issue (read the last post in breaking upper ball joint for shock install thread, should be like the 15th one down from the top of the suspension and breaks thread.) He had to cut around 1/16" off the sides of the rubber spring seat to make it fit. We'll both probably be doing what xny1989 did to make it fit...
My question to you is that what in the heck did you do to break off the top nut off your old decarbons???
My question to you is that what in the heck did you do to break off the top nut off your old decarbons???
as for the nut on the top of the original shot, I used my dremel to hack away the nut along with a chisel and impact wrench. It took about an hour to hack it away. I can't tell you how much I hate beating on a spring compressed that much with fear that it will fly apart.
A die grinder is much quicker if you have air.... I put a cutting wheel on mine and had the nut off in about 5 minutes....no excessive beating with a hammer necessary. A few shots with a sharp cold chisel and the nut popped off.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 23
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From: Glen Rock, PA
I got the job done safely. I do have a air, but don't have an air grinder. Test drive will be in the morning. First time using Koni: a little disappointed about lack of directions (to take uncertainty out of component assembly) as well as the poor fit of the lower spring perch in the dish. I'm hoping the new ride makes up for these little indiscretions.
Last edited by jmettee; Sep 20, 2014 at 10:15 PM.
I used a bench grinder to get the lower spring mount to fit in the perch. Got them to sit in there flat.
I do also have an issue with the STR.T rear shocks. There is a spacer on the KYB shock that pushes the lower shock mount about 3/8" forward of the rear end shock mount. The STR.T does not have this, and the installed shock just doesn't look right to me. The supplied bolt looks to be long enough for me to put in a spacer - thinking of one of the nuts off the old shock. Also, since I replaced my sway bars, it seems to me that the sway bar end links are too long such that the lower end of the link is actually lower than the bottom of the lower shock mount (with the ends of the bar pointing downward). I have a spare set of Moog rear sway bar links, so I'll look to see if they are a different length (I cut the old ones out and may have tossed them so I can't use as a reference).
I do also have an issue with the STR.T rear shocks. There is a spacer on the KYB shock that pushes the lower shock mount about 3/8" forward of the rear end shock mount. The STR.T does not have this, and the installed shock just doesn't look right to me. The supplied bolt looks to be long enough for me to put in a spacer - thinking of one of the nuts off the old shock. Also, since I replaced my sway bars, it seems to me that the sway bar end links are too long such that the lower end of the link is actually lower than the bottom of the lower shock mount (with the ends of the bar pointing downward). I have a spare set of Moog rear sway bar links, so I'll look to see if they are a different length (I cut the old ones out and may have tossed them so I can't use as a reference).
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 32
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From: Chicago, IL
I used a bench grinder to get the lower spring mount to fit in the perch. Got them to sit in there flat.
I do also have an issue with the STR.T rear shocks. There is a spacer on the KYB shock that pushes the lower shock mount about 3/8" forward of the rear end shock mount. The STR.T does not have this, and the installed shock just doesn't look right to me. The supplied bolt looks to be long enough for me to put in a spacer - thinking of one of the nuts off the old shock. Also, since I replaced my sway bars, it seems to me that the sway bar end links are too long such that the lower end of the link is actually lower than the bottom of the lower shock mount (with the ends of the bar pointing downward). I have a spare set of Moog rear sway bar links, so I'll look to see if they are a different length (I cut the old ones out and may have tossed them so I can't use as a reference).
I do also have an issue with the STR.T rear shocks. There is a spacer on the KYB shock that pushes the lower shock mount about 3/8" forward of the rear end shock mount. The STR.T does not have this, and the installed shock just doesn't look right to me. The supplied bolt looks to be long enough for me to put in a spacer - thinking of one of the nuts off the old shock. Also, since I replaced my sway bars, it seems to me that the sway bar end links are too long such that the lower end of the link is actually lower than the bottom of the lower shock mount (with the ends of the bar pointing downward). I have a spare set of Moog rear sway bar links, so I'll look to see if they are a different length (I cut the old ones out and may have tossed them so I can't use as a reference).
These STR.T's better be good considering all the frustration you have to go through! I hate that there are NO instructions to be found
I sent a message to Koni asking for assembly instructions, if they get back to me mabye they can answer that question as well.
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Glen Rock, PA
I had this issue as well. There is also a spacer on the original rear shock's lower mount. I was debating on keeping the nut that was included with the Koni's on there as a spacer, but ended up removing it and using it to mount the shock to the body. Having two points to torque worries me; if the inner nut were to get loose then the shock could move around even if it was still tight to the body! It does look a little weird mounted without the spacer though....
These STR.T's better be good considering all the frustration you have to go through! I hate that there are NO instructions to be found
I sent a message to Koni asking for assembly instructions, if they get back to me mabye they can answer that question as well.
These STR.T's better be good considering all the frustration you have to go through! I hate that there are NO instructions to be found
I sent a message to Koni asking for assembly instructions, if they get back to me mabye they can answer that question as well.
I went to the Install University web site and looked as some of their photo's of the rear suspension, particularly for the rear sway bar (I've got an issue with the links possibly being too long and the bar not being in the proper position because of that). The photo's show rear shocks with a spacer between the shock and the rear end mount, just as my old KYB's have. I figure the old nut (should it fit) will make a perfect spacer and am not worried about it's torque - will just torque down the attaching nut. It looks to me as if the shock shaft is not straight, so that's why I'm considering the spacer.
