First time replacing shocks. What else to replace while they're out?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 32
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From: Chicago, IL
First time replacing shocks. What else to replace while they're out? My 97' z28 vert. has about 128k miles on it (stock, daily driver) and the car is riding like crap. I figure a suspension overhaul is in order. I'm an aspiring mechanic (see also: noob), and this will be my first time playing around with suspension.
What all should I inspect and/or replace while I've got the wheels and shocks off?
I'm starting with replacing the shocks with Koni S.R.T's and I'm thinking of replacing the springs with OE height Moog 60114 and CC635. I've read that sway bar end links are likely worn or easily broken while replacing shocks, so I could get those as well.
What all should I inspect and/or replace while I've got the wheels and shocks off?
I'm starting with replacing the shocks with Koni S.R.T's and I'm thinking of replacing the springs with OE height Moog 60114 and CC635. I've read that sway bar end links are likely worn or easily broken while replacing shocks, so I could get those as well.
With 128k miles on your vehicle there is definitely a chance that the end links will have some wear and tear on them and need replacing but they could also be fine too. Just visually inspect them and if you determine that they need to be replace I would recommend going with a set of aftermarket polyurethane ones like the BMR ones we offer. I would also inspect the condition of your strut mounts too and replace them if need be. If you do end up getting new strut mounts make sure you go with a good aftermarket set like Moog because some of the cheaper options are complete crap. I have had customers have some bad experiences with the cheaper ones and I have too.
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813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
I'd also replace the end links with poly ones. Throw on poly sway bar bushings while you're in there as well.
Going with new strut mounts may actually be necessary, and you'll also want to get new isolators for those.
Going with new strut mounts may actually be necessary, and you'll also want to get new isolators for those.
^ demonspeed nailed it. Bought some shocks a week ago and waiting for them to come in! I'm trying to conserve as much money as possible and trying to get away with just the shocks and hopefully my shock mounts and isolators will be alright (doubt it though...) I ordered poly front sway bar endlinks and bushings with my shock order. I replaced my rear sway bar about a year ago and when I tried to loosen up one endlink for the rear sway bar, it just snapped and was trash. Going to try to get the swap done in one day as my car is my DD and endlinks sometimes break so I got them, along with the sway bar bushings for added stability.
General rule of thumb - 99% of the time the mounts cannot be reused, and the sway links will need replaced.
Why do you want to buy new springs? If you're sticking with stock springs, just keep the ones you have. No real reason to replace them with OE equivalents if they're not broken.
Why do you want to buy new springs? If you're sticking with stock springs, just keep the ones you have. No real reason to replace them with OE equivalents if they're not broken.
I just finished a swap of KYB and stock springs with Koni Str.t's and Strano lowering springs. You will likely need to replace the shock mounts and isolators - the advice of getting a brand name should be taken - I bought moog stuff, and did run into a little problem getting one of the driver's side bolts in, but did succeed. If you're staying with your stock springs, you'll need a strut spring compressor (two) to dissemble the existing units, which given the age, may be a challenge. Also, I found that my front sway bar cracked at the link mount area (the top part came off, the bottom remained), so I've got new sway bars to install. Definitely inspect all that stuff while you're in there. Also note that when you take out the shock/spring assembly, the upper control arm comes out with it. Also, you will have to take the master cylinder and move it to get to the driver's side torx bolts (T50's I believe) - don't have to detach brake lines, just the two bolts holding it on and it has enough leeway to push towards engine to get at the bolts. I was able to get both upper ball joints to detach without using pickle fork - just loosen castle nuts (don't remove) and hit the side of the spindle at the ball joint with a hammer - I was able to do that with a regular claw hammer. Good luck.
Thanks, much appreciated. I might create my own thread about a day before I install the shocks, in case I run into some problems, I know you guys will give some quick advice in case I have questions.
I do have a hunch that my passenger's side shock mount is aftermarket tho...I put a 15mm wrench up to one of the bolts that comes through the engine bay and it was way too big. The bolt ended up being a standard 1/2in. The bolt also has a 10.9 printed on the head of the bolt. I'm guessing that's just the grade of the bolt, but also accumulates to an aftermarket shock mount maybe...? Maybe I'll get lucky and not have to replace my shock mounts (extra cash for me to mess with!)
I do have a hunch that my passenger's side shock mount is aftermarket tho...I put a 15mm wrench up to one of the bolts that comes through the engine bay and it was way too big. The bolt ended up being a standard 1/2in. The bolt also has a 10.9 printed on the head of the bolt. I'm guessing that's just the grade of the bolt, but also accumulates to an aftermarket shock mount maybe...? Maybe I'll get lucky and not have to replace my shock mounts (extra cash for me to mess with!)
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Thanks, much appreciated. I might create my own thread about a day before I install the shocks, in case I run into some problems, I know you guys will give some quick advice in case I have questions.
I do have a hunch that my passenger's side shock mount is aftermarket tho...I put a 15mm wrench up to one of the bolts that comes through the engine bay and it was way too big. The bolt ended up being a standard 1/2in. The bolt also has a 10.9 printed on the head of the bolt. I'm guessing that's just the grade of the bolt, but also accumulates to an aftermarket shock mount maybe...? Maybe I'll get lucky and not have to replace my shock mounts (extra cash for me to mess with!)
I do have a hunch that my passenger's side shock mount is aftermarket tho...I put a 15mm wrench up to one of the bolts that comes through the engine bay and it was way too big. The bolt ended up being a standard 1/2in. The bolt also has a 10.9 printed on the head of the bolt. I'm guessing that's just the grade of the bolt, but also accumulates to an aftermarket shock mount maybe...? Maybe I'll get lucky and not have to replace my shock mounts (extra cash for me to mess with!)
FWIW, I prefer the ACDelco stuff just because it's GM, but I don't think one can go wrong with Moog if insistent on going aftermarket.
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
Polyurethane I've had polyurethane trans mounts before, and they were too stiff. They added a pretty harsh noise / vibration, and bolts ended up coming loose in some not-so-fun places.
Any reason why I'd need polyurethane end links over the standard rubber ones for a daily driver? I can't see myself caring too much about them breaking at $6 a piece.
Any reason why I'd need polyurethane end links over the standard rubber ones for a daily driver? I can't see myself caring too much about them breaking at $6 a piece.
You likely don't "need" poly endlinks, but it's not at all the same type of vibration transmission that you may have experienced with the transmission mount (actually, there is no vibration felt in my experience). Honestly, I did not notice any harsh NVH when I ran poly engine/trans/torque arm mounts. I also had poly mounts on all suspension pieces at every attachment point except rod ends on the axle side of the panhard/rear LCA and rear point of the front lca.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 23
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From: Glen Rock, PA
I'm about ready to tackle this same job (2000 T/A, 91K miles, ORIGINAL, orange, deCarbon shocks...ugh). Replacing with Konis.
What is the recommended type of spring compressor to use? I was looking at the front springs a couple weeks ago & trying to determine which style may be best to fit in there.
What is the recommended type of spring compressor to use? I was looking at the front springs a couple weeks ago & trying to determine which style may be best to fit in there.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
Most people on here use the typical parts store compressor. I for one feel that it's preferable to bring the shock assembly to a shop that has a wall-mount compressor. I'm lucky enough to have a friend who has one, but even if not, it'd be worth $25 a side to have it done that way.
I've also done front shocks on five 4th gen Firebirds, and the upper shock mounts were reusable in each case. You may need to replace them; but don't assume that you're automatically going to have to do so.
I've also done front shocks on five 4th gen Firebirds, and the upper shock mounts were reusable in each case. You may need to replace them; but don't assume that you're automatically going to have to do so.
I'm about ready to tackle this same job (2000 T/A, 91K miles, ORIGINAL, orange, deCarbon shocks...ugh). Replacing with Konis.
What is the recommended type of spring compressor to use? I was looking at the front springs a couple weeks ago & trying to determine which style may be best to fit in there.
What is the recommended type of spring compressor to use? I was looking at the front springs a couple weeks ago & trying to determine which style may be best to fit in there.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=555557_0_0_
... and here's something I just learned, the hard way. On the front shock lower mount there is an insulator that goes between the bottom of the spring and it's perch. If you recover your existing ones and they are in good condition, use them. I didn't know I needed them when I did my install and get a little noise in the front, so I got to take them out and apart and install the insulator. Oh well.
Thanks, much appreciated. I might create my own thread about a day before I install the shocks, in case I run into some problems, I know you guys will give some quick advice in case I have questions.
I do have a hunch that my passenger's side shock mount is aftermarket tho...I put a 15mm wrench up to one of the bolts that comes through the engine bay and it was way too big. The bolt ended up being a standard 1/2in. The bolt also has a 10.9 printed on the head of the bolt. I'm guessing that's just the grade of the bolt, but also accumulates to an aftermarket shock mount maybe...? Maybe I'll get lucky and not have to replace my shock mounts (extra cash for me to mess with!)
I do have a hunch that my passenger's side shock mount is aftermarket tho...I put a 15mm wrench up to one of the bolts that comes through the engine bay and it was way too big. The bolt ended up being a standard 1/2in. The bolt also has a 10.9 printed on the head of the bolt. I'm guessing that's just the grade of the bolt, but also accumulates to an aftermarket shock mount maybe...? Maybe I'll get lucky and not have to replace my shock mounts (extra cash for me to mess with!)
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
Some updates / questions:
I finally got some time to work on this. I got the front struts out without breaking anything and I got the spring compressed without killing myself....
I'm assembling front struts for the first time, these are Koni STR.T's. They came with no instructions whatsoever, and there aren't any on their website. The haynes manual says "use the strut manufacturer instructions", so no help there. Other shocks look different than these too....
It looks like the order would be... (from the base of the shock) metal spring seat, plastic spring seat from the old shock, rubber bump stop, a metal "cup" looking part that fits over the bump stop, the plastic strut cover, a metal washer, then the mount. Or am I way off?
Any help with the correct assembly order would be appreciated!
Also, on the top of the strut there is a rubber part with two "bumpers" on either side, which I think is called the "isolator". It still has some rubber on it, but the edges around where it screws in are a little torn up. No parts stores nearby have it. Am I safe to reuse those?
I finally got some time to work on this. I got the front struts out without breaking anything and I got the spring compressed without killing myself....
I'm assembling front struts for the first time, these are Koni STR.T's. They came with no instructions whatsoever, and there aren't any on their website. The haynes manual says "use the strut manufacturer instructions", so no help there. Other shocks look different than these too....
It looks like the order would be... (from the base of the shock) metal spring seat, plastic spring seat from the old shock, rubber bump stop, a metal "cup" looking part that fits over the bump stop, the plastic strut cover, a metal washer, then the mount. Or am I way off?
Any help with the correct assembly order would be appreciated!
Also, on the top of the strut there is a rubber part with two "bumpers" on either side, which I think is called the "isolator". It still has some rubber on it, but the edges around where it screws in are a little torn up. No parts stores nearby have it. Am I safe to reuse those?
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Glen Rock, PA
The one I used from Autozone is part number 27036.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=555557_0_0_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=555557_0_0_
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Glen Rock, PA
Some updates / questions:
I finally got some time to work on this. I got the front struts out without breaking anything and I got the spring compressed without killing myself....
I'm assembling front struts for the first time, these are Koni STR.T's. They came with no instructions whatsoever, and there aren't any on their website. The haynes manual says "use the strut manufacturer instructions", so no help there. Other shocks look different than these too....
It looks like the order would be... (from the base of the shock) metal spring seat, plastic spring seat from the old shock, rubber bump stop, a metal "cup" looking part that fits over the bump stop, the plastic strut cover, a metal washer, then the mount. Or am I way off?
Any help with the correct assembly order would be appreciated!
Also, on the top of the strut there is a rubber part with two "bumpers" on either side, which I think is called the "isolator". It still has some rubber on it, but the edges around where it screws in are a little torn up. No parts stores nearby have it. Am I safe to reuse those?
I finally got some time to work on this. I got the front struts out without breaking anything and I got the spring compressed without killing myself....
I'm assembling front struts for the first time, these are Koni STR.T's. They came with no instructions whatsoever, and there aren't any on their website. The haynes manual says "use the strut manufacturer instructions", so no help there. Other shocks look different than these too....
It looks like the order would be... (from the base of the shock) metal spring seat, plastic spring seat from the old shock, rubber bump stop, a metal "cup" looking part that fits over the bump stop, the plastic strut cover, a metal washer, then the mount. Or am I way off?
Any help with the correct assembly order would be appreciated!
Also, on the top of the strut there is a rubber part with two "bumpers" on either side, which I think is called the "isolator". It still has some rubber on it, but the edges around where it screws in are a little torn up. No parts stores nearby have it. Am I safe to reuse those?
I started to look at the parts in the box today, but without getting the stock assembly apart yet, I could not draw any comparisons. I *think* after you put the lower spring perch/dish on, then you put the cup part on. It seems to fit the top of the shock body pretty well. From there, I am not sure but I think the shock bumper may get sandwiched between the plain washer & the washer in the plastic shock cover. Then I assume this would mount against the rubber mount on the top plate. But again, since I didn't get my stock units apart, I got frustrated & gave up for the day & didn't piece the new ones together yet.
I believe you're right with the order except the metal cylinder thing with the holes in it should be switched with the black rubber bump stop I THINK. Mainly because I don't want to be responsible if something goes wrong but I'm 97% sure that's how it goes as the above guy also stated. Good luck tho
*You should be able to reuse that isolator, depending on how bad it is. You're description seems like it isn't terrible though. Shock mount isolators they're like 8 bucks a piece at O'Reilys I think, and they're Moog
*You should be able to reuse that isolator, depending on how bad it is. You're description seems like it isn't terrible though. Shock mount isolators they're like 8 bucks a piece at O'Reilys I think, and they're Moog
Last edited by Corvett z07; Sep 19, 2014 at 09:35 PM.