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I installed poly bushings a year or so ago on my front suspension when I lowered it. I used all the bushings that came in the kit. We all know how it rides different after that. What nobody mentioned was the damage they can do when installed in the front lower A-Arm Aft location. Here's the results. No I didn't hit anything (other than Tucson's horrible horrible roads).
This is on both sides! Completely broken. To be fair, I live in Tucson (5th worst roads in the nation). But I thought I'd share for everyone to see.
When I replaced the A-Arms, I also upgraded to the LS1 spindles and brakes. I re-used the poly bushings, but NOT in that location. For the lower A-Arm aft bushing I went back to stock rubber.
I know that now LOL, I've researched this after I found them broken. I started this thread so it's searchable for anyone else considering Poly bushings in a Gen 4 Camaro. And this is the 2nd set that broke on me, first time I just thought it was Tucson roads. This time I researched it and found out the hard way.
I wish I could afford the BMR or UMI A-Arms. But I can't. I got my A-Arms replaced with the spindles, rotors, and calipers for under $300 (new rotors and aft bushings). That's almost $200 less than just the aftermarket control arms.
Exactly why I went with Moog replacement bushings on mine instead of the poly, this is a prime example of why to research on here BEFORE purchasing ANY suspension parts.
Exactly why I went with Moog replacement bushings on mine instead of the poly, this is a prime example of why to research on here BEFORE purchasing ANY suspension parts.
Agreed 100%. That's why I made this thread with this title, to make it more researchable for others. I found the info by digging into other threads related but not as easily directly searchable.
This. That mounting point on the LCA needs articulate. The polyuretheane bushing does not allow for the arm and puts all the stress into the flex of the arm. Which, leads to this.
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I went with moog and the problem solver for the front bushings,after a little research and lowering with Strano/Koni SA. Costs a little more cause you have to buy the problem solver seperate from the set. At least the bushings from rock auto all matched this time. My rear lca bushings were 3 of one and an odd one of slightly different design . ( they claimed moog contracts out, not their fault) Anyway glad you're alright that is SKETCHY and dangerous.
Last edited by celtsean; Apr 23, 2015 at 01:57 AM.
I wish I could afford the BMR or UMI A-Arms. But I can't. I got my A-Arms replaced with the spindles, rotors, and calipers for under $300 (new rotors and aft bushings). That's almost $200 less than just the aftermarket control arms.
Actually with your roads as bad as they are you probably should stick with stock arms as they're the strongest. There have been cases in the past with people bending aftermarket tubular arms.
This is exactly why I keep telling people to not use poly bushings in a position that has any twisting movement requirement. While extreme, this does show how much binding there is and how unforgiving poly is for an application like that.
Wish I knew why GM used a vertical bushing on a horizontal pivot point like that. I just don't understand that thinking.
Last edited by SparkyJJO; Apr 22, 2015 at 09:05 PM.
Thanks for posting up the photo's. The Photos speak loudly of the danger of using poly bushing in the front lower rear vertical position!
So, have you tried calling the bushing manufacture (E.S. or Prothane) and/or emailing them the photos you took to see what response you get from them ?
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Apr 23, 2015 at 05:42 PM.
Thanks for posed up the photo's. The Photos speak loudly of the danger of using poly bushing in the front lower rear vertical position!
So, have you tried calling the bushing manufacture (E.S. or Prothane) and/or emailing them the photos you took to see what response you get from them ?
OP, while it sucks you had to learn the hard way, thank you for posting the damage photos. It will give everyone clear evidence to show people why the poly bushings don't work in that location, so this issue can be avoided in the future.
Actually with your roads as bad as they are you probably should stick with stock arms as they're the strongest. There have been cases in the past with people bending aftermarket tubular arms.
Same goes for the K member, even though UMI offers a beefed up, more triangulated/trussed/reinforced 'road race' version of theirs, the stocker is still much more resilient/strong for bombed out road use (and only a little bit heavier than the beefier/stronger aftermarket ones).
Last edited by dailydriver; Apr 29, 2015 at 05:27 PM.
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CAUTION with Poly bushings!!!! 
